broken transmission case need advice

[jdmwannabee]

i have a broken tranny case:



i have the piece that broke off. i could jb weld it back together but i was thinking i'd be screwed if the jb weld flaked or cracked off and got stuck in the case... any ideas or tips to cold weld it back together?

[deevergote]

Do you have the ability to weld aluminum? Replacing it would be much easier, and more reliable. If you can't do the welding yourself to attempt a repair, then replacing will most likely be cheaper, too.

[jdmwannabee]

Do you have the ability to weld aluminum? Replacing it would be much easier, and more reliable. If you can't do the welding yourself to attempt a repair, then replacing will most likely be cheaper, too.

nope, i can't weld. i was trying to do it on the cheap, with some sort of epoxy or something. thanks though mate.

it dawned on me to try this: put the broken piece back on and put the putty (or whatever i use) on the broken piece and the rest of the case where the two meet.

on another note i keep getting this message

"Your submission could not be processed because a security token was missing or mismatched. If this occurred unexpectedly, please inform the administrator and describe the action you performed before you received this error."

when i attempt to post, i go back and post again and it's fine

[deevergote]

Weird... I'll have to look into that. Most likely an SQL error.


Anyway, epoxy might work... but as you said, you might get something in the transmission. Also, does that part hold fluid? If it's under pressure, it could blow that part right off.

If you can deal with the inconvenience of having it break, and potentially destroying the transmission, give it a shot. The transmission is useless as it is anyway, so why not?

[batever]

JB Weld should hold that. I would use the original formula, which I would think is more strongly adhesive, as opposed to the JB Quik putty. I don't know, the JB QUik would fill that hole better, but it's not as strongly adhesive and isn't as strong. I think the main issue would be adhesion, not strength, in any case.

you can either do what you are planning by essentially "gluing" the existing piece right back on by coating the mating surfaces with JB and then pasting over the entire repair with JB Weld, , or make a "plug" of a piece of metal that will fit on the inside of the hole like a and stuff it in there with JB Weld to seal it and adhere it. An example would be a couple of washers and a bolt that fill up most of the space but are sealed in place with JB.

The stuff is very strong and very tenacious, I think you can make a successful longlasting repair with it.

As long as you thoroughly clean the bonding surfaces you should get good results.



Google "JB Weld" and repair , there are a lot of examples on the web that would be worth looking at before you go ahead if you want more input.

[batever]

This reminds me that there are specialty soldering wires with flux in them that you use with a torch (MAAP gas canister or an equivalent would be hot enough) and can bondstuff like this together. It's not like real welding, in that you don't actually bring the surrounding metal to a melting point, but you bring the flux wire to its melting point and it bonds securely to the surrounding metal. Because of the temperature involved it can also bond metal that has oil on it, although obviously it's best to have the cleanest surface possible. It's kind of tailor made for these kinds of problems like tranny cases and such. I've seen them for aluminum and also for steel/stainless.

It may be worth googling. The other thing is how much time you have to do the repair in, as it will probably be a mail order item.


Ok, I went ahead and googled. This looks promising and only needs a propane torch:

http://durafix.com/

good luck!

[Granite CB7]

I would highly recommend JB weld for that, my old action 1ms clutch put a small hole in my m2b4 into the differential cavity, it's been fine for many miles now. Def. prep the areas really well. It's alittle hard to explain, but try to get more surface area by cutting a groove down the edges of the piece w/ a dremel, yet not wrecking the "keyed" fit, that will leave more jb in between. Or bevel the outside edges of the crack, then skimcoat the whole perimeter w/ jb too. Increased surface area would help alot in this case whether it's on the keyed edges or the outside.