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    #31
    Originally posted by GHOST 2.2
    thanks joesue!

    any information is helpful. now i just gotta start playing the elimination game on the car.
    the fun part.
    contact info

    (562) 324-3639 chan mao

    Comment


      #32
      Just thought I'd post a problem I had about a month ago that is now fixed.
      Symptoms:
      -Hard to shift
      -Clutch pedal kinda squishy
      -Clutch grabbing prematurely leading to engine stalls

      Diagnosis:
      -Checked shifter cables and shifter assembly
      -Checked clutch fluid level: really low
      -Checked undercarriage for leaks: found brake fluid leaking at the bottom of tranny : not sure where leak was from
      -Cleaned all dirty spots in the clutch system and refilled with dot3 brake fluid.
      -Found leak in clutch hose near shifter linkage connection to tranny

      Solution:-New clutch hose. Apparently the metal fastener connectors on these leak from time to time. Also, don't forget to bleed the clutch system once you're done.

      ...adjust accordingly

      Comment


        #33
        The main relay will give you the same symptoms as a bad coil or a bad igniter. A main relay usually only fails when the weather is really hot.

        You might have a hard start every now and then, but not enough to really cause you any concern, but when an igniter or a coil fails, the car won't start at all until it cools down and that will be a major concern.


        okay coil down........igniter to go.

        Comment


          #34
          if your car is a 92-93, I would start with the igniter first before the coil.
          Last edited by GHOST 2.2; 06-07-2007, 12:12 AM.
          The beginning of a new era............................
          165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
          184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by jhondayaaj
            if your car is a 92-93, I would start with the igniter first before the coil.
            yea i think the lil gremlin that caused my problem was the igniter. i pulled it out and it had oil on it. on top and inbetween the heatsink.

            alex hooked me up with one from a d16. i test drove my car around the freeway and it worked fine. i also replaced the coil to, thanks to alex.

            just wanna thank you guys! you're all awesome!

            new igniters from napa cost 111 dollars! all the for that lil shit!


            here are pictures of the old igniter.


            Comment


              #36
              Not really a problem but just wanna know if anyone here is good or familiar with the a/c system,,,, on a daily basis my girl drives the accord and I drive the Si and summer coming around and we also have a lil one to think about.... So I just want to get it blowing cold air.... I think it's a leak cause I have filled it with freon and worked for about a day.... not sure but when we did the swap it came with a/c comprosser,,,, dont know if that was the problem w/ the f22 ????



              93 Accord H22.. 10th anniv.edition-wrecked R.i.P

              99 EM1 Boosted type R- Jacked and never found

              Comment


                #37
                Hey Logic, I would recommend you take the car on the military base if they have an Auto Hobby shop there. They have a tech who can test your A/C and you will only have to pay for the parts, if needed + freon....no labor.

                I took mine to the one in 29 Palms and they still had the R12 freon there.....thanks to my uncle who works on the base.

                My swap thread
                Main relay proplems?--DIY

                Comment


                  #38
                  Is that every military base w/ hobby shops.... they have one in S.D.... I been there but never actually worked on my car there,,, I wasn't sure if they had techs...



                  93 Accord H22.. 10th anniv.edition-wrecked R.i.P

                  99 EM1 Boosted type R- Jacked and never found

                  Comment


                    #39
                    I've never been to any other ones....but I think they would because they won't let you work on your own A/C there.

                    My swap thread
                    Main relay proplems?--DIY

                    Comment


                      #40
                      I would go to the junk yard and get the retrofit kit from r12 to r134-a and drive it to my work place or house, and I will take care of it. let me know if you want to.
                      The beginning of a new era............................
                      165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                      184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

                      Comment


                        #41
                        joe, why not just get the 20 dollar one from autozone, thats what i did. then just refilled it. n/m, i understand you just take the shredder valves correct for free from the junkyard right?
                        Members Ride

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by blackcb7
                          joe, why not just get the 20 dollar one from autozone, thats what i did. then just refilled it. n/m, i understand you just take the shredder valves correct for free from the junkyard right?
                          that's right. auto zone one's will work just fine.
                          The beginning of a new era............................
                          165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                          184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Problem: My S light WONT STOP BLINKINGGGGGGGGG, I replaced the speed sensor because my speedometer wasnt working and resetted the TCM and ECU

                            Comment


                              #44
                              then you may have another code.check and see if you have another code.
                              The beginning of a new era............................
                              165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                              184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

                              Comment


                                #45
                                well the first time i completed the circuit under the passenger side, my check engine light said it was my VSS, so i fixed it. I guess i'll do it again.

                                Comment

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