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dhill_cb7 : 1993 Accord LX

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    #31
    As I stated before here is the really bad news

    Another angle...


    New(to me) 92-93 alloys! Finally acquired an entire set from a junkyard! Haggled a bit but I think the yard got the better of me. Guy wanted 150 for all four and all I had was 135. Since I have been away these have been sitting in my garage since last may when I purchased them.




    Last edited by dhill_cb7; 02-14-2016, 04:40 PM.

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      #32
      I'd be smiling if I found a local cb7 with that little rust.
      CB7TUNER.com
      Educating each other one car at a time.

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        #33
        You may get a bit of a surprise if you take the rear bumper off; many times the rust is even worse where the bumper cover mounting brackets are.

        It'll take some elbow grease to get those wheels looking good, but it can be done. I know a great (but expensive) refinisher in Dayton, OH, depending on your plans for them.
        90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
        08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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          #34
          Get that rust sanded down as quick as possible. It will get worse very fast.

          What exhaust did you have on before?

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            #35
            Originally posted by cb9love View Post
            I'd be smiling if I found a local cb7 with that little rust.
            Thanks for the kind words CB9. My girlfriend should read your response because she thinks my car is a rusty old dinosaur..

            Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
            You may get a bit of a surprise if you take the rear bumper off; many times the rust is even worse where the bumper cover mounting brackets are.

            It'll take some elbow grease to get those wheels looking good, but it can be done. I know a great (but expensive) refinisher in Dayton, OH, depending on your plans for them.
            Any recommendations on what I should do to the rims. I have called around to many different shops around my house. They all come to the same conclusion that the wheels are not worth repairing the cosmetic damage. I beg to differ, I am a perfectionist. :P
            Is there a way I can try and fix them myself?
            I would probably need to buy a tool because I do not think I have a belt sander or wire wheel?

            Originally posted by excalibur02 View Post
            Get that rust sanded down as quick as possible. It will get worse very fast.

            What exhaust did you have on before?
            I should probably remove my rear bumper in order to see the extent of the rust damage?
            The exhaust that I had on the car before was a junkyard replacement that I got for 50 bucks. It actually was removed by my old mechanic(who i refuse to go to anymore) when he threw on the stock exhaust. Even though I specifically asked for EX exhaust..

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              #36
              Replaced my radiator, upper and lower rad hoses, reservoir bottle, and most of the connectors.

              I did not install a new thermostat. I never installed one before and I was a little worried lol. I think i was a gasket short anyway. I think there may be two and i have one plus an O ring.
              Here is some of the work in progress lol.




              Had a lot of fun doing this work. Let car run for 15 mins after and both fans came on and no leaks! Will most likely have to tighten up the hoses when it drops below freezing again.

              Yes, I used this to haul my rims four blocks to my mothers house. She has a utility sink in the basement large enough to accommodate oem alloys. They did not come out as clean as I had hoped. Will have to try some DIYs on here to get these suckers clean before i sand them down and repaint.


              I will add the tranny cooler info on the DIY page. Thanks for looking. Please leave tips and comment.

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                #37
                It has been an extremely long time for me not to post. I actually contemplated getting rid of the Honda. It sat for the last 4 months at my grand parents because I was afraid to drive it with the oil spewing everywhere. Apparently it is leaking from the lower front seal. I believe it is called the crank seal or maybe it is the cam seal but I thought the camshaft was inside the valve cover.

                Either way I was afraid to drive it so it just sat because I cannot afford a new car. I recently moved out with my girlfriend to an apartment so I had to get the car out of my grand parents driveway. I ended up taking it a shop that works on some family and friends cars because this repair is out of my league.

                I know there are YouTube videos and Eric the car guy made one that you can purchase. I did not feel confident to tackle this job by myself and I do not know any forum guys close that would help me out. Also I did not ask anyone so I did not expect any help.

                After a lot of contemplating I decided to change the oil and the battery and get it running again. I went over and started it up every few weeks but I did not really drive it too much. Around the 23rd of July I dropped it off at the shop for them to evaluate the situation and see if it was worth it to repair. He was supposed to evaluate the car and give me an estimate because I am not made of $. Mind you I only have 130k on the odometer.

                This is where I begin to explain how bad my luck is. After a week it is there I called to inquire about the status. The owner of the shop tells me they lost the key and if I have a spare. I tell him, no I only have a valet key, I was never given a spare when I bought it 7 years ago. So he says "I guess we need to replace your ignition cylinder." I was thoroughly unhappy. What could I do at this point. So about 6 days goes by.

                I called back the following Weds and I get one of his mechanics on the line. He tells me they found the key. I said great is the car done? He said no they still need some parts. So I called back two days later and I spoke with the owners daughter now. She says that they didn't even start on the car yet! So they have had it for 3 weeks at this point, lost and found the key, and still have not even evaluated it.

                So she then calls me back at 5:15 that same day and says your bill is 1,143! I almost crapped my pants. I said excuse me!? I have had work done on my car like this and the most I have paid is 600-700. She then says oh we can knock off the taxes and bring it down to 1,000. I said Ok and hung up. I called back not even ten minutes later at 5:25 canceling the work. I said I would take my business elsewhere because I have been lied to by 3 people at your company and the car still isn't worked on. They also tried to tell me I needed a new oil pan gasket and a new valve cover gasket and another oil change. I freaked out and said absolutely not!

                So now it is this past Saturday and the daughter calls me up at 9 am. She says I heard that you don't want us to work on the car anymore. You are unhappy with us and you want to pick up the car. She apologizes left and right and says that they can do all the work for 800. I said that is better but I am still not happy.

                Fast forward to yesterday and the owner calls me and says he is extremely sorry and he was on vacation all last week. He thought they were going to get my car done while he was away. He told me that I can expect to pick it up today after work. So /end rant. I have the worst luck with this car but I cant part with her.

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                  #38
                  Well I know the forum has quieted down a lot in recent years but I will still update my thread in case anyone happens to browse through.

                  I got the car back from that shop after having the worst experience of my life. They replaced the timing belt and few other seals. Mainly the cam and crank seals. I've only been driving locally because right after I got the car back I took it to class in West Chester and when I got home there was a small puddle of oil under my car coming off the transmission.

                  Now I probably could have brought it back to this mechanic but it was a few weeks after I dealt with that headache and I swore to myself that I would never deal with that shop again.

                  At this point I have been adding oil and checking the fluids every time I drive it, which is maybe once a week. I do not have the funds right now to have more major work done to it. I really haven't the slightest idea what seal needs to be replaced now because I thought the whole reason I had it in the shop was to FIX THE OIL LEAK!

                  Well I guess god is testing me because I am stubborn and do not want to get rid of her. Once I graduate in may of 2017 I will have a lot more dough to spend. (I pay for my classes without loans.)

                  End goal would be to restore her and learn everything I can and actually do the repairs myself in an environment where I don't have to worry about my neighbors or the cops asking what I am doing.

                  Sorry I don't have any pictures but the car has not changed much. Thanks for reading.

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                    #39
                    Is it oil or transmission fluid coming off the transmission? If you can get underneath it, clean off the underside as best you can (late night with a jack at a self serve car wash) then you'll be able to track the leak better. Place a piece of cardboard (white if possible) under the car after parking it. Red fluid will be from transmission, oil will be brown. If it is oil and you're lucky, it may only be the pan gasket; other likely source would be the rear main seal (requires removal of the tranny to replace it).

                    Get yourself a Honda service manual and it will have all the info to do the repairs yourself; just take your time and double check your work as you go. You can do it!

                    PS: Here's a thread on redoing wheels: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=182063
                    Last edited by Fleetw00d; 10-10-2016, 10:22 PM.
                    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                    08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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                      #40
                      Thanks a lot Fleetwood. I was in contact with Maury and he said it could also be my distributor seals.

                      I really hope it is not the rear main seal but since I have never replaced it, I am leaning toward that seal.

                      The fact that it is not tranny fluid, it is brown, leads me to believe it may be my rear main seal.

                      Has anyone had a shop do this or is this a job I could do with forum members that know more than me?

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
                        Is it oil or transmission fluid coming off the transmission? If you can get underneath it, clean off the underside as best you can (late night with a jack at a self serve car wash) then you'll be able to track the leak better. Place a piece of cardboard (white if possible) under the car after parking it. Red fluid will be from transmission, oil will be brown. If it is oil and you're lucky, it may only be the pan gasket; other likely source would be the rear main seal (requires removal of the tranny to replace it).

                        Get yourself a Honda service manual and it will have all the info to do the repairs yourself; just take your time and double check your work as you go. You can do it!

                        PS: Here's a thread on redoing wheels: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=182063
                        It scares me to do the work alone but I know I have the confidence to accomplish it. I have to get it inspected by 01/2017. I can take it in 2-3 months prior. I know I have to reregister my car with PA first before I get it inspected. I just paid down my credit card so I think I will knock that out tonight and have the inspection shop inform me of the potential issue.

                        They know I do most of the work myself if I can and have the space available to do it.

                        Would the rear main seal and distributor seals leak while the car is parked? I seem to lose more oil while it sits all week than I do when I drive it on the weekends or for class on weds.

                        Thanks for all the help. I need to get some current pictures up. Since I moved I haven't located my digital camera. I guess I could use my iphone 4s? Rather old and outdated though.

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                          #42
                          The distributor seal will leak with the engine off - it blocks off the end of a trough in the head that retains oil on the bottom portion of the cam. I'm not sure if the oil level in the pan is high enough to reach the rear main when the engine is off. If you have a lot of oil on the head and the transmission housing just below/behind the distributor, then it is likely that seal - rear main leakage will not show up on top of the trans. Note that there is a seal between the distributor housing and the head and one internal to the distributor. The external one is fairly easy to replace: make an alignment mark from one of the distributor mounting lugs to the head; disconnect the distributor connector(s), remove the three mounting bolts, remove the distributor, remove the seal on the end of the housing, install a new seal, lubricate the seal a little, install the distributor, line up your marks, install the bolts and tighten, reinstall wires and connectors. Removing the wires from the plugs and coil will probably help to free the distributor. Timing should be pretty close, but you can use a timing light to tweak it if necessary.

                          The only distributor I opened up to replace the internal seal wound up having all sorts of cracking of the insulation on the wires, so I replaced the entire distributor.
                          90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                          08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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                            #43
                            Thanks for the kinds words fleetwood. Sorry for the long delay in response.
                            I was battling alcohol and marijuana addiction and I am clean from both. It has only been two weeks without pot but I smoked everyday, twice a day, since I was 16 only quitting for a few weeks twice. Now I am 26. I haven't touched alcohol since Easter of this year.

                            Now I don't worry about getting high or intoxicated and I am actually loving the CB7 again.
                            I think I may end up just taking the car into Honda.

                            If it was the rear main seal I am assuming my engine would have been garbage by now?

                            I am going out to buy some purple power or simple green to try and degrease the engine bay as much as possible.

                            I also graduated in May from West Chester with a degree in business management (if anyone is hiring :P)

                            I hope to be more active on here as well now I am not worried about my next high.

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                              #44
                              Congrats on the sobriety and the graduation! Good luck with the job hunt as well.

                              Just because a main seal is leaking doesn't necessarily mean the engine is bad. The seals around the rotating parts (crank, cams, distributor, etc.) have the highest likeliness to go out. Most leaks occur during engine operation, when oil is pressurized through the system. The only way to gauge the severity would be to check your engine oil cold before a drive and then again after it has cooled (both times when the oil is settled back into the pan). Most leaks you find after parking are subsequent to having driven the car. If there was a leak while sitting off, that could only come from areas where oil collects like the pan of the distributor seal (as fleetw00d mentioned).

                              Hopefully you get it sorted. Just keep an eye on the oil levels until you get it repaired.
                              1993 Accord DX | Rosewood Brown Metallic

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by apalileo View Post
                                Congrats on the sobriety and the graduation! Good luck with the job hunt as well.

                                Just because a main seal is leaking doesn't necessarily mean the engine is bad. The seals around the rotating parts (crank, cams, distributor, etc.) have the highest likeliness to go out. Most leaks occur during engine operation, when oil is pressurized through the system. The only way to gauge the severity would be to check your engine oil cold before a drive and then again after it has cooled (both times when the oil is settled back into the pan). Most leaks you find after parking are subsequent to having driven the car. If there was a leak while sitting off, that could only come from areas where oil collects like the pan of the distributor seal (as fleetw00d mentioned).

                                Hopefully you get it sorted. Just keep an eye on the oil levels until you get it repaired.
                                The issue I am having is bogging/no acceleration with your foot on the gas pedal.

                                Well I drove up to north jersey to visit and meet Maury. He did all of the work while I watched and helped with small things.

                                Let me run down what we did so maybe you guys can help diagnose the problems that I am currently experiencing. Maybe when Maury logs on her can chime in because he did most of the work.

                                We dropped the transmission to replace the rear main seal. We did the axle seals as well while they were out. We also took off the distributor and replaced that seal(fell apart in his hand). We changed the spark plugs and cap and rotor as well. I also purple powered the transmission while it was off the car. We covered up the dipstick hole with a rag and I used a brush and towels to clean the caked on 20+ years of oil residue.

                                I changed the wires Thursday thinking they were causing this hesitation/acceleration issue since we changed the plugs the day before.

                                Today he came down to Drexel Hill where I live and we did the upper and lower spark plug seals, the valve cover gasket, fuel filter and he converted me to R134A. My AC is working again and it gets down to 42 degrees in the car! We also seafoamed my car. Hoping to solve the acceleration/ bogging issue.

                                The issue I am having and it all started Wednesday after we reassembled everything. The car takes a forever to accelerate. You put your foot down on the gas pedal and it barely goes anywhere for a few seconds.

                                TLDR; No CELs or flashing D4 either. Could the tranny have been on its way out and the overhaul finally killed it?
                                Would the torque converter cause this issue?
                                Could the purple power have ruined the solenoids? I think we left them on the tranny while I purple powered the outside.
                                Maybe Maury can explain it better. I believe his screenname is Excalibur on here?

                                Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have an OHM meter if I need to check the O2 sensor and solenoids on the transmission.
                                Last edited by dhill_cb7; 07-22-2017, 04:57 PM.

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