Engine re-building tools

[sonikaccord]

I currently have three (3) H22s that need a rebuild. (yeah it's a lot )

So I need some tool recommendations for the precision parts....preferably high quality, used, from eBay to maximize my dollars.

For measurement (micrometers and indicators)I want to go Mitutoyo digital, but I'm open to analog stuff.

For torque, I was looking at CDI...not sure which style is best. There's the harbor freight digital adapter too. It seems to do well enough.

Engine builders, what do you all use? And what am I missing?

[F22Chris]

You can get the machine shop to do most of the things you'd need special tools for. Are you doing the whole long block? Mitu is the way to go.

Check summit too

[SOHC-FTW]

Dial calipers, micrometer, plasti gauge, valve spring compressor, valve lapping tool,feeler gauges, leak down tester, ring filer, ring compressor., straight edge, hooner.

Just to name the most used/common.

[sonikaccord]

Yes sir. I'm mainly concerned about assembling. The machine shop can true everything, hone and clean.

[illinois_erik]

besides a regular extended set of tools, the only specialty tools I had to buy when breaking down and reassembling my h was: 1/2 drive 12pt 17mm socket (fly/flex plate crank bolts); EuroExports H/B valve spring compressor; GoKart valve lapping tool; 3/8 drive 12pt 14mm deep well (for arp head studs) .. thats all I can think of off the top of my head..plus a 1/2 drive and 3/8 drive click style torque wrenches...crank pulley holder tool (should already have anyway)

Oh yeah, totally slipped my mind..the metric hex socket rail from harbor freight.
their metric axle nut & impact socket set also came in handy as "deep well" sockets for some of the sensors and oil filter stud

[illinois_erik]

Yes sir. I'm mainly concerned about assembling. The machine shop can true everything, hone and clean.

even when you get it home and when ready to start assembly, is wash everything down with hot sudsy water and then dry with something lint free..air compressor what have you..and begin. have regular motor oil, some atf and moly lube at hand. I used a bottle of lucas straight up as assembly lube on the crank and rods bearings. atf with some oil like 2:1 all over the rings and cylinder bores. motor oil saturating the whole valve train, then lucas drizzled all over the cam journals and lobes. oil and lucas mix when lapping, sans seals... be very meticulous, the most important step. when torquing rods and caps, triple click them. go in order..etc.. !!!!!!!! lol.

head gasket and mating surfaces cleaned and free of any contaminates...

[sonikaccord]

I have a nice set of sockets, mostly metric, deep impact sockets, and pulley holder tool. And the Prelude service manual.

I may need a ridge reamer too.
A rod stretch gauge.
10x eye loupe for inspections
Great lighting

Everything has to be clean!!!!!! Don't want no tight crank.

Are you using the ATF and oil mix as a break-in mix?

[illinois_erik]

I have a nice set of sockets, mostly metric, deep impact sockets, and pulley holder tool. And the Prelude service manual.

I may need a ridge reamer too.
A rod stretch gauge.
10x eye loupe for inspections
Great lighting

Everything has to be clean!!!!!! Don't want no tight crank.

Are you using the ATF and oil mix as a break-in mix?

yes the atf helps the rings seat almost immediately instead of some silly "break in" dance..i just mixed in oil for the hell of it. new cam? yes, youll want to do the rev durations and engine loading thats suggested.

Plastic dead blow hammer for setting crank caps and those sorts of duties. seat em give them a thump, hand tighten everything check for binding then go about torquing to spec in order, check for binding, should be a nice buttery smooth rotation ((hence lucas straight up, its like honey and stays in place) I had to assemble in weekly steps so after i did something i bagged everything on the stand with a thick black garbage bag)