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Old 11-13-2010, 09:32 PM   #21
aventari
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It is easy to remove the through bolt from the middle and unbolt it from the block?
is it fine to put a jack under the oil pan to hold up the motor when pulling it?
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:37 PM   #22
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you dont unbolt anything from the block, the block has a seperate mount which attaches to the motor mount.

a lot of times, i just let the motor hang because you need it to droop down so that you can access the crank bolt.

Before you do anything though, attempt to loosen the crank bolt. i bought a 36" 3/4 drive breaker bar just for removing crank bolts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RE-pzP8g_x4
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:22 PM   #23
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Today I did a lot of work. Replaced the timing belt, removed the balance shaft belt and related parts, and put new p/s and alternator belts, modified the alternator casing for extra cooling, installed new 170F thermostat, put on a good used 1.1 bar spare Miata radiator cap, adjusted all the valves, opened up the air box, gutted some more of the doors, cut out hood bracing, and cut a cooling hole in the hood.


Removing the crank pulley bolt, first I tried my impact gun which never had a prayer.


Next I used a friend's pulley tool and my 1/2" breaker. I had two extensions on the breaker, and this is what happened:



Luckily I kept trying with just one 6" extension and doing a quad press against the bar finally broke the bolt loose. Ridiculous!

Realized I didn't need the upper window frames so cut that off:


Cut a vent in the hood, this should vent post radiator air and hot exhaust manfiold air




I pulled the distributor cap and checked out the contacts. I should probably get a new cap and rotor, except I couldn't remove the rotor.. There's supposed to be a set screw holding the rotor but I couldn't find it and the rotor was on there pretty damn tight. Any ideas?

Last edited by aventari; 11-14-2010 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:02 AM   #24
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Does anyone here track their Accord? Does this fuel tank have issues with fuel starvation on long sweeping corners?
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:52 AM   #25
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theres enough baffling inside the fuel tank to prevent that unless you are running on fumes.
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Old 11-15-2010, 03:00 AM   #26
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ahh good to know. My old VW Rabbit would starve on corners on anything less than 1/2 a tank and I only found that out on the race track. I didn't want to be in the middle of a the race to find out the Accord does it too
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Old 11-16-2010, 05:42 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aventari View Post
Does anyone here track their Accord? Does this fuel tank have issues with fuel starvation on long sweeping corners?
I will be tracking mine but from my experience anything above 1/4 it doesnt starve.
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Old 11-16-2010, 06:00 PM   #28
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This makes me so happy. I hope you do well. I see you have some brake ducting going on!

You can remove more stuff. Do you need corner lamps? Side mirrors? Remove the header heat shield since you have that hole in the hood. You don't need the rod that holds the hood up.

Move the battery to the trunk and bolt it down. Weight distribution. Also, you can toss the black box and canister bolted to the firewall. You just need to keep the MAP sensor obviously. You'll just throw a EGR code thats it, no big deal.

Washer fluid reservoir and intake air resonator box can come out from behind the front bumper if you haven't already.

The more weight you can take off the front and put in the rear the better.
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:08 PM   #29
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Take off the front bumper and swiss cheese the bumper bracing.


I would love to try something like this!
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Old 11-16-2010, 11:33 PM   #30
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Ever watch MythBusters? There's an episode where they turn a car into a golf ball with dimples, and it ends up being more aerodynamic. So drive the car through a hail storm before the race, or "simulate" a hail storm to the exterior of the car.
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Old 11-18-2010, 03:37 AM   #31
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Important

Hey, this hit me tonight as I was driving home.

It was dark, and I realized it will be for part of your race.

Now the stock headlights are not that bad, but make sure they ARE NOT EBAY. If they are get some OEM from a junk yard. The output of the EBAY ones are awefull, you will have to drive slow just so you don't outrun your headlights.
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Old 11-18-2010, 05:23 PM   #32
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i vote light bar and rally lights.
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:48 PM   #33
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Quote:
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i vote light bar and rally lights.
x2
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:34 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wed3k View Post
i vote light bar and rally lights.
That would be beast as sh*t.!
x3
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Old 11-19-2010, 03:03 AM   #35
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Luckily for us, the don't actually race for 24 hours in the dark, so at the track I will be removing all lights and everything.

Good idea about the bumper, I will pull it off and see about gutting it too. I wanted to move the battery to the rear, but we would have to have a separate vented racing batterybox and a lot of 4 gauge wire and move the cut off switch and there's just not time at this point

The schedule is:

Saturday, 4 December 2010
7:30am: Gates Open
8:30am: Mandatory Drivers' Meeting

9am: Lil'Mons PowerWheels Race*

10am: Race Session I Start
Sundown: Race Session I End

Sunday, 5 December 2010
8:30am: Mandatory Drivers' Meeting
9am: Race Session II Start
Noon: People's Curse
4:30pm: Race Session II End

5pm: Awards Ceremony
7pm: Gates Close


The people's curse is where all the racers vote on a car/team they don't like, or is driving like jerk-offs or is blatantly cheating, and the "winner" who gets the most votes gets their car crushed by a bulldozer!

http://jalopnik.com/5289202/so-whats...curse-business

Last edited by aventari; 11-19-2010 at 03:14 AM.
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Old 11-21-2010, 07:04 PM   #36
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My teammates took it for a track day yesterday and they say after 2 sessions they came in and the car was smoking.

They think the head gasket is blown, but I think it's just an oil leak at the back of the block. It's not smoking out of the tail pipe at all and the plugs look perfect--not steam cleaned and not oily. There is no bubbling in the coolant and no mixing of coolant or oil.

It's possible the head gasket is leaking out of the back I suppose, but is there a sensor or something like that that commonly leaks? Maybe distributor seal?

I'm going to go out there right now and spray the engine down with gunk engine cleaner and see if I can pin point the leak.
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Old 11-21-2010, 07:25 PM   #37
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Cursed!

Im sorry i can't help you with your question, but i wanted to show my support for you guys. I think this is awesome! I hope you guys do well and do all our CB's proud!

Do you worry/care about the curse? How well is it handling? Are you gonna film the event(what you can anyways) take pics or blog it?

As you can tell im quite interested in this and i hope you keep us all posted.

Goodluck fixing the smoking problem and goodluck on race day!!!

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Old 11-21-2010, 08:11 PM   #38
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oil pressure sender, oil cooler o ring if equipped.
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Old 11-21-2010, 08:24 PM   #39
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Just wanted to say that car looks ridiculous (in a good way). I'd love to drive it on the street.
Hope you get the problem solved and keep racing it!
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Old 11-21-2010, 09:48 PM   #40
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Thanks for the support guys!

Good news:

[upper right]



I guess when I did the timing belt and set the valve lash, the gasket got folded under on reinstallation and I didn't notice.

I feel like a retard
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