** PROBLEMS - SYMPTOMS & DIAGNOSIS LOG **

[DA92CB7]

Accord Vehicle Info:
1990-1993 sedans

Symptom(s):
rear locks won't lock or have trouble locking/unlocking.

Cause(s):
accumulation of dust and dirt jams the pivot points of the gears/joints

Price(s): < OPTIONAL, if you have this information on-hand
some wd-40 or some other spray lubricant

Solution: Remove the locking mechanism and clean it off with the wd-40 or other lubricant and spray the joints/gears with it moving them back and fourth to work it into the joints really well. Plug it back in and check to see if it works again if so you just saved your self a trip to the jy, if not at least you know what that you have to replace it.

[HondaFan81]

Accord Vehicle Info:

1991 DX manual

Symptom:

While driving, tachometer & speedometer needles went wacky, CD headunit & clock turned off, engine surging, headlights would dim & then get brighter, etc. Sometimes slow starter cranking or no crank conditions due to a dying battery.

Cause:

First of all, the battery and alternator are new in this issue. However, the 4-pin connection at the alternator for the regulator portion was too loose. It would slip on and off easily. This loose connection caused the battery to not charge. I removed the terminals from the connector housing and squeezed them with needle-nose for a tighter fit. As a result, the alternator charged the battery and regulated amperage when electrically loaded.

Price:

The fix itself was free. However, it resulted in me replacing my original 3.5 year old battery and it probably would have lasted me longer.

[HondaFan81]

Accord Vehicle Info:

1991 EX manual

Symptom:

Motor starts up and runs fine, but when you put tranny into any gear, it will not drive the car. At this point, the more you rev the motor, the more noise it makes. The noise sounds like very bad rod knock, rapid clack clack clack sound. When you put tranny into neutral and push the clutch in/out, it will sometimes make the noise then releasing clutch pedal.

Cause:

One of the CV shaft joints has completely failed and no longer drives that wheel, in two pieces basically. The noise you hear is the rotation of the good part of the shaft attached to the tranny banging against the other parts on the damaged joint. The reason the car does not drive is because it is an open/standard differential, so all torque is going to the slipping/non-driving wheel due to differentiation.

Price:

$55-65 for remanufactured CV shaft. Add labor if you have to pay a shop to replace it.

[IridiumCore]

Accord Vehicle Info:
- 1992 Honda Accord LX 5spd

Symptom(s):
- Motor attempts to start after being shut off. Grinding noise from engine bay.
I attempted to start the car. Usually soon as the iginition is turned to the momentary position (Position 3) but it didn't turn over all the way. When I turned the key back to shut it down it still tried to turn over.

Cause(s):
- Bad starter. Not sure if the starter just went or if I caused the issue with the failed attempt to start.
- Grinding noise came from the starter failing to disengage the fly wheel.
- The starter has a mechanism with teeth that turns the flywheel which moves in and out of the starter. This - failed to disengage causing the grinding noise.

Price(s):
- $121.00 Autozone will do labor myself. I personally wouldn't trust a starter from the junk yard. Perhaps
- Temporary fix below (Get you home)
- If your out (I was at work) and you have a 5spd and your tools (I keep mine in the trunk) remove the negative battery terminal, loosen the starter bolts enough the move the starter back, wedge the starter so it won't engage the clutch and pop the clutch to start the car. This'll get you off a major road perhaps home but ultimately somewhere safe.

[gloryaccordy]

Accord Vehicle Info:
- 1993 EX 5spd, F22A1 swapped

Symptom(s):
- Power steering felt "wobbly" under load, pump continually groaned+whined under any kind of load, system kept leaking around reservoir

Cause(s):
- Screw-type hose clamp at bottom of reservoir was loose, leaking fluid and introducing air right at the intake of the pump.

Price(s): < OPTIONAL, if you have this information on-hand
- FREE, though I would recommend getting an OEM suction hose as I think the end on the reservoir is bigger than the end on the suction side of the pump.

[J3wman]

Vehicle Info:
1985 Toyota Celica Supra P Type (but same problem could occur on an accord)


Symptom:
Starter Would Click once but no turn over (pull in coil engages but hold in didnt engage)

Cause:
Epic corrosion on both battery terminals, battery terminal on starter and engine ground

Price:
-$25 for platinum terminals on battery
-$15 for terminals for engine ground
-$25 for engine ground cable 4 gauge
-$2.25 for baking soda and water for starter cable







Vehicle Info:
1985 Toyota Celica Supra P Type (but same problem could occur on an accord)


Symptom:
Vehicle wouldnt turn over but starter would click

Cause:
Fouled plugs due to rich running engine and previous owner (who should be beaten) gapped platinum plugs

Price:
-$19 for 6 NGK Platinum plugs and anti Seize

[HondaFan81]

Accord Vehicle Info:

1993 Accord LX 10th anniversary edition, automatic, sedan.

Symptom:

Suspension and brakes were completely restored. Nonetheless, a vehicle-front knock sound occurred whenever going over bumps.

Cause:

Rear shocks were in good condition. However, my father had new front Monroe shock assemblies installed by Sears (included new front upper mount bushings, shocks and springs). Knock came from front upper shock mount area.

I disassembled the front shock assemblies to find no upper shock bump stop washers were present and the upper shock mount bushings were inverted. The convex sides were facing one another (2 mount bushings per upper mount). I installed the missing bump stop washers (unique design, NOT flat washers) and reassembled the front shock assemblies properly to eliminate problem.

Price:

A few dollars for two OEM front shock bump stop washers (unique design, not a regular flat washer), patience and time.

[HondaFan81]

Accord Vehicle Info:

1990 Accord EX, manual, sedan.

Symptom:

Vehicle had 368,XXX miles and was burning 1 quart every 400 miles. Nonethless, it still achieved 27.2 MPG with about 95&#37; HWY driving. Oil burning/consumption occurred only when vehicle was warmed up and engine running, very obvious from tailpipe. No oil burning on cold engine start.

Cause:

Piston ring oil blowby due to motor age, etc.

Price:

About $500 worth of supplies and parts.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...light=F22a4%2A

It took a lot of time and patience, but end results were at 4,000 miles shy of 1/2 quart consumed. Definitely worth it, if rest of vehicle working appropriately, etc.

[HondaFan81]

Accord Vehicle Info:

1992 Accord EX, automatic, sedan.

Symptom:

Wheel lug nuts would loosen up over time, after torquing them down. Repeat occurrence.

Cause:

If you have had lug nuts loosening up after torquing them down, consider checking your wheel bearings for endplay. If endplay exists, replace the wheel bearings, which will prevent relative motion/vibration that loosens up your lugnuts/fasteners.

Obviously, this is a safety issue some may not be aware of. This occurred to a local member's car that I'm working on and I diagnosed the problem.

Price:

About $50 per front wheel bearing and labor involved. Will need another $65-75 for wheel alignment, since you will be disconnecting front suspension ball-joints.

[HondaFan81]

Accord Vehicle Info:

1991 EX automatic coupe

Symptom:

Front brake setup is Nissan brand. In removing original front brake pads, they were stubborn to remove off caliper bracket. Installing the new pads, were just as difficult.

Cause:

My father recently purchased vehicle from co-worker, which has vehicle sitting for long time. We live in Michigan, corrosion exists here. Front caliper brackets had built up corrosion under the brake pad slide shims, resulting in a very tight pad fit.

Price:

N/A

Fix:

Caliper brake pistons moved very smoothly, so setup was salvageable. I cleaned & greased caliper bracket slide pins. Took aggressive wire brush to caliper bracket itself (without slide tabs in place) to remove most of rust. Then, had to take an aggressive metal file to the flat areas where the slide tabs lay on. Cleaned loose debris and tested brake pad fitment with slide tabs in place, all moved as it should. Reassembled front brakes, everything works well.

[James Matteu]

Accord Vehicle Info:
1997 Honda Accord EX-V6, applicable to all C27 powered Honda/Acura vehicles: 1995-97 Honda Accord V6 models, 1987-90 Acura Legend 2.7L models

Symptom(s):
Car shuts off and/or runs-poorly/hesitates/stumbles, especially under acceleration; occasion backfiring during hesitation/stumbling. No power loss, no irregular speedometer/tachometer function, possible damage to Heated Oxygen Sensors and/or Catalytic Converter due to hesitation (can be mistaken for a cause, rather than a symptom), no blown fuses, and no low fuel pressure.

Cause(s):
Weak ignition coil

Price(s):
Honda OEM (made by TEC) Ignition Coil $89.01 plus S&H from Majestic Honda

Solution:
Replace ignition coil

[bobbycos]

Accord Vehicle Info:

1990 EX manual

Symptom:

Car loses power sporadically (go & pause, go & pause, etc) more so at 3000 RPMs or below. If you run the engine over 3000 RPMs or so, it runs better. The check engine light also comes on and gives you "code 43 = fuel system".

Cause:

Oxygen sensor is bad, assuming you do not have a clogged fuel filter, working fuel injectors and working fuel pump (like I did).

Price:

$59.99 - Bosch OEM type oxygen sensor (Advance Auto Parts)...the OEM type is a "plug & play" part.

Note: Make sure to reset ECU. I pulled the ECU back-up fuse and touched the positive and negative battery cables together to completely drain the ECU of codes, then restarted the car. Car ran like a champ afterwards and idle was even smoother.

*EDIT: Price was wrong*

update and quote

1990 LX automatic

same issues

oxygen sensor was NG

got Denso 234-4621 for $20 from my buddies auto parts store