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Old 02-13-2017, 07:08 PM   #181
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I'm not sure about the thermostat housing and water pipe. I'd think they would work, but I'll leave that to someone that knows better to confirm (you might want to make a separate thread in the swaps section to ask.)

Since the H23A3 block has FRM sleeves, you'll need compatible pistons. Mahle makes FRM compatible pistons. JUN and Cosworth may as well, though I haven't been able to confirm (neither company responded to my inquiry.)
The H22A also has an 87mm bore. Stock JDM H22A pistons will put you around 11.64:1 (with an OEM head gasket, H22A head, and otherwise stock H23A3 bottom end.) Clearance MAY be an issue, requiring a thicker head gasket. I've never done it, so I can't say for certain.
USDM H22A4 pistons will put you at a more street-friendly 10.94:1 compression ratio. That would be my choice.
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Old 02-15-2017, 05:52 AM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deevergote View Post
I'm not sure about the thermostat housing and water pipe. I'd think they would work, but I'll leave that to someone that knows better to confirm (you might want to make a separate thread in the swaps section to ask.)

Since the H23A3 block has FRM sleeves, you'll need compatible pistons. Mahle makes FRM compatible pistons. JUN and Cosworth may as well, though I haven't been able to confirm (neither company responded to my inquiry.)
The H22A also has an 87mm bore. Stock JDM H22A pistons will put you around 11.64:1 (with an OEM head gasket, H22A head, and otherwise stock H23A3 bottom end.) Clearance MAY be an issue, requiring a thicker head gasket. I've never done it, so I can't say for certain.
USDM H22A4 pistons will put you at a more street-friendly 10.94:1 compression ratio. That would be my choice.

if your willing to resize the small end of your connecting rods, the f20c pistons are frm compatible 87mm and high compression, but with the 30mm compression height it will drop the pistons back in the hole a safe distance.
That should yield you a 11.3/1 compression.
The f20c pistons a rather robust design that seems to withstand boost and juice.

Not everyone is ready to resize their connecting rods, but a machine shop should be able to do it for you rather cheap.
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Old 02-21-2017, 01:46 PM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb9love View Post
if your willing to resize the small end of your connecting rods, the f20c pistons are frm compatible 87mm and high compression, but with the 30mm compression height it will drop the pistons back in the hole a safe distance.
That should yield you a 11.3/1 compression.
The f20c pistons a rather robust design that seems to withstand boost and juice.

Not everyone is ready to resize their connecting rods, but a machine shop should be able to do it for you rather cheap.
Great information! It's not really a big job to resize the connecting rods, but I think I will go with F22/H23 H-beam connecting rods and FRM compatible H22Ax pistons. I don't want to go all nuts with the higher compression so I think I'd do good with a setup like that.
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Old 03-15-2017, 01:42 PM   #184
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Yoo finally got something done...

We took of dash from the sedan with my brother and once we were at it, we removed the front windscreen. I took it off because I'm taking out the pedals, all harnesses, blower motor everything and painting the whole chassis from inside. I want to remove all dirt and shit from everywhere to get nice and clean result! I think the interior will be white, engine bay will be painte again (maybe yellow) and the chassis will be white from outside.

I got my hands on a nice pair of USDM spec nipple headlights! My brother also got really awesome USDM burgundy interior for his CB3 sedan from the same car I got the lights from! His interior is faking flawless considering where we live, he has rare goodies like OEM cup holder, clear door lights, arm rest, OEM rear brakelight and other cool stuff!

Sorry no pics this time, let's see if I get some decent shots next weekend when I go to the shop

STAY TUNED!!!
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:31 PM   #185
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^great progress, it sounds like you are really going for quality with the paintjob Thanks for the updates
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Old 03-19-2017, 04:54 AM   #186
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So friday came and went too fast.. Didn't get much done. I dropped off the front axels and subframes so I can paint the engine bay properly and I don't have to worry about the subframes getting painted I also removed rest of the wiring harness from the chassis from under the dash, removed pedals and fuse boxes, blower motor etc. The blower motor was bad anyway so when I get the chassis painted I can start assembling it with new better parts, like new seats, better dash, new blower motor etc... I also removed the clutch line from the firewall to get some spacce when I'm taking out the old paint.

I clean the firewall and inside of the chassis with angle grinder and wire wheel. It's a pain in the ass but gets the job done rather fast. I'm not completely taking the engine bay to the metal again since I shaved it last winter, so theres some bondo under the paint and that's something I don't want to deal with anymore, so I'm just sanding the black paint flat, add 2K sanding primer, sand it flat and put some colour on it! It'll be yellow for sure.

Also I'm not sure about the H23 FRM block anymore, since it seems not too many machine shops can/want to hoone it. I could get it sleeved but I'm not sure what I want to do... There's absolutely no marks in the cylinder walls so I'm thinking if I should just slap new piston rings in it and call it a day, but that sounds pretty half assed to me.

It'd be cheaper to just get a running H22 with low mileage but I can't get it street legal in the CB chassis since all the H22's put out too much power bone stock. 180hp is the most I can get registered in my chassis, and that's why I want to put the H23 block into it since the H23A3 makes 160hp. I don't need dyno sheets so I can go with DOHC VTEC head and the inspection guy still would think it makes 160hp 'cause the block says H23.

I've been thinking that if I come across a nice K20Z6 in running condition, I'll buy it and drop it in the CB.

I'm having some issues with my DropBox, but I try to figure it out so I can show some pictures here!
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:49 AM   #187
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Finally got my hands on the H22A7 CH1 Type R cylinder head. Paid 340€ for it and it came with red valve cover. I'm taking it to a local machine shop and getting it rebuild.

I also repainted the wagon. I'm having some issues with my Dropbox so I can't post pics

Go follow me on Instagram @siriuksensamurai.
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Old 04-09-2017, 09:42 AM   #188
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New wheels for the wagon!



So I painted the wagon white again. I'm getting it inspected soon and going to drive it again for the summer. Low and slow is the thing for it.

What comes to the sedan... I painted the engine bay again. Now I can focus on getting the chassis painted... My brother has done a hell of a job with the passenger side quarter panel to get it straight, but it's starting to look good again!



Local machine shop A-P Hyvärinen took care of my Type R cylinder head. All the H23 VTEC needs is a new headgasket, piston rings, timing belt etc. Soon to be put together!
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Old 04-16-2017, 08:36 AM   #189
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:47 AM   #190
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Yo!

Wich mount I should get for the drivers side? I've read that the F20/F22 mount should go with H22 block but it doesn't fit with H23 block. Do I need H23 specific mount from a 94-96 Accord i-SR or what? Things like this really starting to piss me off

EDIT: The block is from a MY92 Prelude so I think I should get the Prelude mount?
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Old 05-01-2017, 03:09 PM   #191
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Your pics arent showing up broken links?
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Old 05-02-2017, 01:43 PM   #192
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Your pics arent showing up broken links?
Yup I have some issues with dropbox...
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