Would an Acura 3.0CL bearing fit the CB7?

[Bad_dude]

Hello everyone,
I am about to repair my front wheel bearing as I suspect it to be bad without play. I have no vibration, play sense movement when driving. I just hear and feel the constant sort of "Woa Woa" low rumble type noise. I check all the ball joints and tug the wheels and no play.
Since I am replacing the bearing any way, I am considering the ROH conversion. The problem is I am really tight on money and I want to do this as little as possible so I would like to get some advice. Here's what I would like to do: I want to do the ROH conversion and retain my 14" steelies as the tires are still good and I have no money to buy new tires and 15" rims. So it comes down to a 2.3CL hubs but I cannot find it used for a good price any where. I certainly cannot put out $200 just for the hubs. The best I could find is some guy on Ebay that sell the entire knuckle with joints and every thing for $90 each side. The problem with that Ebay deal is I don't have the money plus I don't need all the parts as all of my joints are still good.
Looking at Acura parts, the hubs for 3.0CL and 2.3CL are the same part number. The only different are the bearings. With that in mind, I want to keep the 10.2" rotors to fit my 14" steelies. I also would like to not having to spend the $35 having the bearings press out and in. Also I cannot find any shop nearby to even do it at $35 much less find one that would do just that and not wanting to do the job for me.
I find it's easier to find a 3.0CL hub/bearing than finding the 2.3CL. So I was just wondering if the bearing from the 3.0CL would fit onto the CB7 knuckle to save me the money and hassle of finding a press?
I would like any other suggestions that could help save money by keeping my 14" steelies, my calipers. The thing is my brake pads are OEM and they have 80% left and I won't want to waste $65 on new pads. Could I use these old pads with the new rotors?
I did a search and found this link, but did not answer my questions.

Thanks.

[ssondubs]

If you have 15" wheels or bigger I would recommend to get a pair of 98/99 3.0L Acura CL spindles. These parts bolt right up and have larger rotors plus the ROH design.

Stock vs CL:

[Bad_dude]

I wish I could do that but I have no money to do that right now.
Wouldn't have to upgrade the calipers and brackets as well?
What about the 2.3CL spindles? Does it bolt right up and still use the 10.2" rotors?
Thanks.

If you have 15" wheels or bigger I would recommend to get a pair of 98/99 3.0L Acura CL spindles. These parts bolt right up and have larger rotors plus the ROH design.

Stock vs CL:

[Bad_dude]

2.3CL direct bolt on?

Would a 2.3 CL knuckle and spindle direct bolt on? From what I am reading it should be, just want to confirm.
Thanks.

[F20A CB7]

Yes if u get the 3.0 deal ull need to get bigger calipers. In the pic u can see they r bigger.


Ask tippy about your question. Send him a link to the page so we can all know.

[Bad_dude]

The deal I saw on Ebay is for the 2.3CL and also the other whole knuckle deal is also for 2.3CL.
So I want to minimize cost so staying with stock calipers. But my pads still plenty of life left, I wonder if I could reuse it with new rotors?

[Jarrett]

The '97 2.2CL knuckle/hub/brake assembly is identical to that of a '94-'97 Accord sedan/coupe. The only way it differs from the '90-'93 sedan/coupe is having provisions on the knuckle to bolt down an upper ball joint shield. The deviation between a '98-'99 2.3CL assembly and that of the aforementioned is the HOR/ROH difference. It will bolt up to your car directly and still use the smaller calipers.

If you're pressed for cash right now I would table this modification. When removing knuckles you're going to find issues with the suspension elsewhere and have to replace them. I wouldn't put myself into a position in which I was risking damaging other ball joints or sway bar bushings if I couldn't afford to fix them on the spot.

[Bad_dude]

I am a bit confuse. I just would like to confirm if I can get the whole knuckle and spindle from a 2.3CL, would they bolt directly into my 90 Sedan LX without any problem or creating future problems? I would like to keep the stock calipers as my wheels are 14" steelies. Or the 2.3CL knuckle and spindle is different than the CB?
I could always take the hub and bearing from the 2.3CL and mount it on the CB. Btw, would the bearing from the 2.3CL already press into the hub works ok on the CB?
BTW, knuckle and spindle is the same thing right? I read these terms interchangeably. But the part numbers for the CB and 2.3CL knuckles are different.

Thanks.

The '97 2.2CL knuckle/hub/brake assembly is identical to that of a '94-'97 Accord sedan/coupe. The only way it differs from the '90-'93 sedan/coupe is having provisions on the knuckle to bolt down an upper ball joint shield. The deviation between a '98-'99 2.3CL assembly and that of the aforementioned is the HOR/ROH difference. It will bolt up to your car directly and still use the smaller calipers.

If you're pressed for cash right now I would table this modification. When removing knuckles you're going to find issues with the suspension elsewhere and have to replace them. I wouldn't put myself into a position in which I was risking damaging other ball joints or sway bar bushings if I couldn't afford to fix them on the spot.

[Stoner51]

A search on Rock auto. Shows wheel bearing part numbers:

accord 90-93 TIMKEN Part # 513098
acura cl 2.3 TIMKEN Part #513098
98 Acura cl 3.2 TIMKEN Part # 510038

So it looks to me like 2.3 you can change the hub/bearing combo. and for a 3.0 you will prob have to do a spindle swap. Which you should prob also get an alignment.

I just changed my brakes this weekend. I have the standard accord hub/bearing. It took me like 45 min per side. If you want to upgrade your brakes use vigor Rotors(11in) and the 15vn calipers(bigger than the accord) found on many honda/acura cars. That's what I did.

Or the cheapest option is new accord rotors. How often to do you have to do your brakes? My bet is no more than once every year or two.

You are stressing over a job you will only do every two years. If it made changing the oil easier I could see it.

There are bigger brake options without going ROH.

steve

[Jarrett]

The '97 2.2CL knuckle/hub/brake assembly is identical to that of a '94-'97 Accord sedan/coupe. The only way it differs from the '90-'93 sedan/coupe is having provisions on the knuckle to bolt down an upper ball joint shield. The deviation between a '98-'99 2.3CL assembly and that of the aforementioned is the HOR/ROH difference. It will bolt up to your car directly and still use the smaller calipers.

If you're pressed for cash right now I would table this modification. When removing knuckles you're going to find issues with the suspension elsewhere and have to replace them. I wouldn't put myself into a position in which I was risking damaging other ball joints or sway bar bushings if I couldn't afford to fix them on the spot.

I am a bit confuse. I just would like to confirm if I can get the whole knuckle and spindle from a 2.3CL, would they bolt directly into my 90 Sedan LX without any problem or creating future problems? See above highlighting.
I would like to keep the stock calipers as my wheels are 14" steelies. Or the 2.3CL knuckle and spindle is different than the CB? I described their only difference in my previous post.
I could always take the hub and bearing from the 2.3CL and mount it on the CB. You sure could.
Btw, would the bearing from the 2.3CL already press into the hub works ok on the CB? You bet.
BTW, knuckle and spindle is the same thing right? Yes they are. I read these terms interchangeably. But the part numbers for the CB and 2.3CL knuckles are different.

Thanks.

.

[Tippey764]

The '97 2.2CL knuckle/hub/brake assembly is identical to that of a '94-'97 Accord sedan/coupe. The only way it differs from the '90-'93 sedan/coupe is having provisions on the knuckle to bolt down an upper ball joint shield. The deviation between a '98-'99 2.3CL assembly and that of the aforementioned is the HOR/ROH difference. It will bolt up to your car directly and still use the smaller calipers.

If you're pressed for cash right now I would table this modification. When removing knuckles you're going to find issues with the suspension elsewhere and have to replace them. I wouldn't put myself into a position in which I was risking damaging other ball joints or sway bar bushings if I couldn't afford to fix them on the spot.

the CL knuckle also gives you negative camber

[Jarrett]

Your 3.0CL knuckles did. The 2.3CL and 3.0CL use different knuckles, though.

[Bad_dude]

Thanks guys.
I know it's a bit confusing for those who are trying to help me as the thread is about the CL3.0. But I was lucky to come across the 2.3CL whole knuckle setup. So I was just wondering if it just bolt right on to save me the taking the hub and bearing apart.
Any how, it is good that we have both info for the two different CLs here.

So I am going with the 2.3CL hub/bearing swap instead of the whole knuckle since I don't have to do any alignment. My car alignment is good right now. I don't want to put more cash out for it. I do have a few more questions:

1) My brake pads are OEM and it still have over 80% left, should I just reuse them on the new rotors? They are about $60 after the shipping and handling fee new.

2) The Rotors, since I have to replace them, which type is better for performance of a daily driver? Right now with the stock rotors, I would like the car to stop a little faster and I want to feel it more surely. My 99 Corolla on stock brakes and cheap pads could stop on a dime but I guess the CB is more heavy so I wonder what is best in terms of performance and lasting longer? I am thinking about these POWER STOP Part # JBR799XPR or POWER STOP Part # JBR797XPR . For a $2 difference, I wonder what is the real difference other than the price and part numbers? Should I go with blanks, slotted, drilled, or both drilled and slotted? What are the advantages and disadvantages? I think I could use 98-02 Accord or 98-99 Acura 2.3CL front rotors, which use the same part numbers.

3) Any other tips and hints that I might need before doing the job? I know I ask a lot of questions and the main reason is to learn it thoroughly and I find that always helps me get the job done right the first time as I know what to do and what to avoid. I don't have a garage to work on my car with so every job that I start, must be done the same day and not time or room for mistakes that I could leave for the next day.

Oh Tippy, my car is stock every thing, should I be worry about the negative camper and what exactly is negative vs positive camper? Or you were referring to the 3.0CL knuckle? Where can I read more about these alignment stuffs to get a better knowledge particularly about our cars vs others?

Thanks.

[ssondubs]

I wish I could do that but I have no money to do that right now.
Wouldn't have to upgrade the calipers and brackets as well?
What about the 2.3CL spindles? Does it bolt right up and still use the 10.2" rotors?
Thanks.

I got the pair in the picture complete with calipers for less than $100.

[Bad_dude]

How did you do that? Or where did you get them? I got my 2.3CL knuckles without rotors or calipers for $135 shipped.
But I have to keep the stock calipers b/c I got 14" steelies as I can't afford new tires and rims.

I got the pair in the picture complete with calipers for less than $100.