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Old 02-25-2018, 12:19 AM   #21
NolsAccord_CC1
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NH-503P-3: after looking at this 91 4-door I now know what you mean. I was quite shocked to see there are so many differences with mine. Actually i have been searching eBay for some parts we don't have here. I will pm you about it. Thanks
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Old 03-09-2018, 10:30 AM   #22
NolsAccord_CC1
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Today I got some more parts from the 91 4-door:
Front left and right brakelines and the 2 brakelines from the master cylinder to the prop valve. Also got the prop valve itself, maybe to use the bracket. The car still had the engine in it so it took me almost 3 hours to get everything out. I ended up cutting the heater hoses and forced the clutch line out of the way. I also took off the master cylinder, fuel feed line, throttle cable etc to get the lines out. I'll be doing the abs delete when i got more time.

I have been reading on the installation of DA integra 40/40 prop valves but found a whole lot of contradicting information. What i believe to be correct is that you mount the 40/40 valve in the same way as the non-abs Accord valve. This means the mount on the 40/40 valve is on the wrong side. You then connect the brakelines in the same position as on the non-ABS accord. Is this correct? I found some photo's online where they discribe where each line goes but it's different to the non-ABS accord.



DA integra 40/40 prop valve on the left (got it from eBay). 91 Accord 30/30 prop valve on the right. They are positioned jus like they are mounted in the engine bay.

Last edited by NolsAccord_CC1; 03-09-2018 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 03-09-2018, 03:11 PM   #23
G. Wiffington
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Wow, good job pulling out those hard lines from a CB with the engine still in!
I wish I would have gotten Accord lines for my ABS Delete.

But, regarding what you are saying about contradictions you are right about the bracket. It is going to be on the oppisite side compared to the Accord's bracket position. It won't matter about bolting the bracket up because those hard lines are already bent in place so you just screw in all the lines & you should be good to go.

I found an actual service manual online that shows where all the lines go for both a Non-ABS Accord as well as an ABS Brake Accord to compare.

Just google 40/40 Prop Valve & you should be able to find a diagram for which hardline goes to which hole on the prop valve.
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:02 PM   #24
NolsAccord_CC1
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Yesterday I went parts picking again. It was below freezing and there was a lot of wind, very few people where outside but I was crazy enough to get what I needed. It took 3 hours and I was extremely happy to get back to my car.
I got some parts for a member and a gauge cluster for my car. I will have to repin the upper and left connector because they are different. Has anyone ever done this? Do i just swap the wires to where the corresponding color goes on the other cluster? The left connector has the same number of and colors of wires. The right one is the same and just plugs in. The upper one has a different plug and totally different places where the wires go. I hope I can pull it off. I have never done anything like this. Can someone help me a little here?

I want to do this for 2 reasons: my pcb is burnt and this one has no srs and abs lights. I think it would be cool that there will be no trace of srs and abs when the delete is done.

Here are some pics:




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Old 03-18-2018, 04:25 PM   #25
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Hold up.

Hold up. Is that a junked S2000 and an FN2 Civic Type R in that yard? and I spy a 2nd gen Honda Legend!
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Old 03-19-2018, 10:50 AM   #26
NolsAccord_CC1
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It's a turbo fn2 type R.
This shop is specialized in Honda swaps, turbo and NA builds. They even had there own racing team in the past. They got many wrecked type R's and s2000's for the parts. The guy tried talking me into a K swap but i love the F and want to do everything myself. This car is all about me doing the things i never had the money, knowhow and time for in the past. I know it's costing me money and i will screw up some times but it's all part of the learning proces, right?
Like the upper header. I cleaned it and even dremeled out some welds that protruded on the inside but when i wanted to put it on, it didn't fit. The guy i bought it from said it just bolted up to the stock downpipe but it doesn't. Now the threads of the bolts are stripped Also the holes for the header bolts are 12mm instead of 9. While this isn't a big issue i think this shows it's just a poor product. I'll learn, eventually



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Old 03-19-2018, 09:37 PM   #27
NH-503P-3
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Don’t sweat it Niels. I’ve bought allot of things for my car twice. Broken good stuff twice. Replaced the same parts twice. Lol. It’s all part of owning an older car that you’re firmly attached to. The car will come out good one way or the other.
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Old 04-04-2018, 02:17 PM   #28
NolsAccord_CC1
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Today I swapped the cb3 gauge cluster. I depinned the cb3 A and C connectors and put them on my harness. Some things worked but most not. So I pulled it out again. Seems I got the A connector backwards. I put it back in but still some things didn't work. After a couple more tries i finally found out there where bad connections because of corrosion. I cleaned the copper surfaces on the pcb and swapped some parts of my old cluster and finally everything worked. It took me about 5 or 6 hours. But i'm happy.
The only downside is that I recently got the chrome rings around the gauges installed on my coupe cluster. Probably gonna order a new set. Stinkin expensive though.

Last saturday was a sunny day so I took the car for a quick wash and visited my body guy. Rear arches for the CB are discontinued so he ordered 94 arches. We hope they look alike and can easily be made to fit. I had a blast driving the car again, makes me dream what it would be like when i'm finished with it.





Last edited by NolsAccord_CC1; 04-04-2018 at 02:20 PM.
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