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it should pulse on the positive side of the coil while you're cranking it. It'll take a second set of hands or a handheld starter button to check. Like I said, if it isnt pulsing the coil wont fire...
Also, was this car origionally an internal or external coil car? It may be possible the signal wires to the coil we re-pinned backwards?
ok, so while it's being cranked I should see the test light get brighter every time the car pulses?
The actuall light on the test light will pulse, on and off, that'll tell you if the ignitor or ignition control module is functioning properly. Like I said, if not, the coil wont fire, which means no spark. Ignitor and coil or one or the other are the 2 most common causes of a no-spark condition, FWIW.
Since your car was origionally internal, it should be the same wiring for the H, so long as you're using an internal coil dizzy. If not, doublecheck the wires for the coil coming from the ignitor, if you had to depin and re-pin them, that is.
thanks. just got a tighten up the exhaust bolts, rid the leaks. and time the sucker. right now. she's bogging and not giving enough power. any advice? I read the timing degree should be 15 +or- 2. also need to get some obd1 h22 injectors in place of these h23 injectors.
codes: 12 and 41
I'm thinking that the egr and o2 sensor are being thrown bc of ecu pinning. I remember reading somewhere that between the f22 ecu and the p13, you need to switch the egr and 02 sensor pin locations. I don't remember doing this, so I may give it a try and reset the ecu and see if I still get the code.
code 9: U an currently using the f22 dizzy rotor on my h23 dizzy and they just don't seem to be the same. h23 rotor has a screw to secure it to the spindle, while the f22 rotor is kind of loose and depend on friction to hold it in place. I read that code 9 is cyp and located in the dizzy, so I'm hoping that a h23 specific rotor will work and get the code to leave. if not. it's either a bad dizzy, or bad wiring. I've checked voltage with the car turned on, and all my wires are getting voltage in the dizzy harness connector, so I'm slightly confident It's not my wiring. I'll check it if it comes down to it of course.
code 22:
Any suggestions? maybe after I clear the rest of the codes this will go away. I'm also going to check vtec harness I made and make sure it's pinned correctly.
I'm also going to pull the crank off and re-install my timing belt to make sure all the gears are lined up at direct tdc again. after that, I'm going to re-visit my Valve lash adjustments and make sure my intake is .006 and exhaust is .007.
Hoping after these fixes, she'll run stronger, smoother, and more reliably. right now it's lacking any power going from 1k to 3k rpms. It sometimes bogs, and I get a lot of engine vibrations(possibly balancers out of time).
I adjusted my valve lash, which was very off. The car sounds a LOT smoother now, but I can see by the way it shakes that the balance shafts are probably off a bit. which is in turn probably sending me that code 9 even after I got a new rotor. I hope re-installing the timing belt will solve my issue, bc I really don't feel like getting a new dizzy...
tomorrow, I hope to get the crank pully holder tool from ktcb7 so I can re-do my timing side.
car feels so good to drive... only if it were giving me full powa!! damn. It seems like the motor isn't putting out it's full potential. I haven't redone the timing side yet, after that, I hope it unleashes fury. haha.
car runs smoother but I'm still not getting the full power of the h22. It takes a while for the car to pick up and if I drop the car into first gear from a stop it sounds like it stutters about 2-3 times and will sometimes backfire through the intake.
I just re-checked and adjusted all my ex. valves to .008 and my in. valves to .006 so my clearances are good. I also just re-did my timing belt and aligned everything properly.
basically these are my symptoms:
1. low power, hesitates throughout power band.
2. when barely opening the throttle, the engine will surge up and down. but once it passes a certain point will stop surging.
2. when starting from a stop, between 1k-2k the car will stutter a few times and sometimes pop from the intake. (I do have adjustable cams, should I possibly advance or retard the intake a bit to rid the popping issue?)
3. the rad fans won't come on, but car temp gauge doesn't say I'm overheating. I wired on of the fans to a switch just in case. - planning to replace ect sensor to fix this
4. it's just eaating through gas. -hopefully changing the o2 sensor will fix this and maybe get rid of my code 41. I'm running a straight pipe as well... would this cause my o2 to trip?
things I have been researching and plan on doing:
- tps calibration.
- fuel cap/filter replacement
- NGK spark plugs instead of these crappy bosches
possible code 22 fixes:
- continuity checks on the vtec wiring to check for shorts or breaks
- soldering the harness connections instead of using barrel connectors.
possible fixes for code 41:
- check tightness of o2 sensor
- check for shorts/breaks in wiring
- try new one
I'll try to get a running vid bc I know hearing and seeing it would be a lot of help.
I'm going to start a new thread seeing as my last one went pretty well and actually yielded a solution with a lot of good pictures and info. I think starting a new one would help a lot of future people that may run into similar swap/h22 issues.
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