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Old 04-16-2014, 07:15 AM   #21
cb7 calling
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My car too does this. It was perfect for about a month after I put new rotors on then it came back. So I guess they warped again really fast but that's not really how rotors warp so I'm thinking it's another issue that new rotors band-aided.
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Old 04-17-2014, 09:11 PM   #22
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I am so stumped. Tell you what, I am going to replace all the bushings in the car anyway since they all need to be desperately replaced and upgraded. I'm going to do some research as to what bushings will fit me and my car the best before I do so also. This will probably be happening soon since I pushed this project off way too far anyway, I will come back to this post when they are in and have been in long enough to tell if they helped or not. There's really not much else I can think of that would cause this to be such a weird issue, other than the steering rack of course, since my other parts that may have caused the issue are new and fine.

I'll come back soon(ish) with results.

And of course, any suggestions or personal experiences with it are still useful to me
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:32 AM   #23
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Its your rotors you probably didn't break them in correctly or you warped them again after replacement.
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Old 04-25-2014, 06:30 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by militiamaiden View Post
Some things it does need in the undercarriage is bushings in general, along with sway bar bushings. Could bushings really cause the wheel to shake that bad?
Yes
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Originally Posted by Losiracer2 View Post
I can visibly see that the inner lower control arm bushing on my car is shot, can take a screwdriver and move the entire arm. So i'm thinking that's my braking problem. I'll most likely do this first since it only takes an hour or two and I can do it quick in my garage without anyone complaining really.
Similar on both my Crx and EF hatch in the past.. New bushings!
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My control arms look great, but the bushings on the other, absolutely not, hm.
Are you saying they're shot? Not to say the rotors/brakes couldn't be a contributing part of the issue, but bushings, sway bar links, etc can have a detrimental effect on comfort/drivability (or even safety)..

Good Luck with whatever you find!
(bushings are a PITA lol )
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Old 04-26-2014, 02:58 AM   #25
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Well, replaced my LCAs in my DD last sunday and drove the car for a week.

The car definitely drives better, a lot less slop, but there's still a vibration.

The rotors I bought were from O'reilly auto, so they couldn't be the best either. Most likely some high quality rotors would cure it. Brembos?

When the wheels and all were off, i spun the assembly and could audibly hear the rotor unevenly rubbing on the pads. So I don't know if its due to the shitty Autozone bearings I installed, since I was an intern and couldn't afford shit, or if something else is misaligned.

The Coupe on the other hand, exhibits no vibration whatsoever. But in that one, I recently put Honda OE bearings in and have Driveshaft shop Level 2 axles in. Has the same O'reilly rotors though, so that's what confuses me. Identical setup also, Legend 2 pistons, Wagon 25T rotors and 25T brackets. So i've got no clue how one can shudder and the other doesn't.
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Old 04-28-2014, 04:29 PM   #26
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@Losi -

Hard to say what it is, inner tie rods or possibly that the main source IS due to the worn rack (purely assumption based on your earlier post (PS stop leak etc..). How old are the rest of your chassis parts? Ball joints etc.. a lot of people ignore the damage of the upper but at 287k she might be a little weak
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Old 05-01-2014, 01:26 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SunkistCB7 View Post
@Losi -

Hard to say what it is, inner tie rods or possibly that the main source IS due to the worn rack (purely assumption based on your earlier post (PS stop leak etc..). How old are the rest of your chassis parts? Ball joints etc.. a lot of people ignore the damage of the upper but at 287k she might be a little weak
UCAs are new, lower balljoints have maybe 20k, replaced 2 yrs back, outer tie rods same time

I'm thinking its the rack as well, sad to say its never going to get replaced though. I'm not willing to spend 220 bucks from NAPA + the 6 hrs of labor it took to replace the one on my coupe, then add in an alignment for 60. Unless something catastrophic happens and the current rack spills its guts suddenly.

The only other rather economical thing i could do is replace the radius rod bushings that go into the front cross member, but it's starting to get hot here in AZ so I might put it off.
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:51 AM   #28
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I'm not willing to spend 220 bucks from NAPA + the 6 hrs of labor it took to replace the one on my coupe, then add in an alignment for 60.
x2

..But I tend to just be cheap sometimes. I've done a rack on a CD, but somehow older Hondas always seem to be more of a PITA so I haven't even looked into replacing it on my CB yet. For the time being, I just ran some thicker fluid through the pump, cut the belt, and drained the fluid so it doesn't go shooting out the reservoir. (Personally, power steering makes me uneasy - I'll swap the rack eventually)

Good luck on finding the issue though, update the thread if you find something ( P.S. Check your mudflaps, maybe they are digging into the concrete when you brake, OE Honda is beast )
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:20 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Losiracer2 View Post
I'm thinking its the rack as well, sad to say its never going to get replaced though. I'm not willing to spend 220 bucks from NAPA + the 6 hrs of labor it took to replace the one on my coupe, then add in an alignment for 60. Unless something catastrophic happens and the current rack spills its guts suddenly.

The only other rather economical thing i could do is replace the radius rod bushings that go into the front cross member, but it's starting to get hot here in AZ so I might put it off.
The radius rods will only cause a clunking when you are coming to a stop. The whole wheel shifts forwards and clunks back and forth. I had a radius rod nut come off, so I know how it sounds when it is at its worst.

Rockauto sells powersteering racks for $100-120, as long as you send your old one back to them (if you don't, they charge you a $125 core charge). That's what I did. Even saw some refurbished units for $75 on ebay and they are sold by a member on this forum.

The install isn't that bad at all, and does not take 6 hours. I've only done it once and had it done in 3 hours. Just make sure to count the number of turns for each tie rod, write it down and put it back on the same amount of turns. It gets it pretty close to what the alignment should be. And you'll want to make sure that the rack is turned all the way to the right, otherwise it won't fit in on the driver's side. If I were to do it again, I could easily do it under 2 hours.
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Old 05-03-2014, 02:26 AM   #30
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another thing I could try is adjusting my rear drum brakes. I've only done drums probably 2 times in my life so I'm not sure if I did it correctly when I replaced them about 6 months back. Not to mention I'm not sure if the O'Reilly auto parts guy machined them to spec and not beyond the discard spec.

It could be causing my front brakes to overwork, thereby getting hot and causing the shudder. Reason I believe this is because I just replaced some rear drums on my parent's toyota van and it made a HUGE difference in brake feel. Having more material there for the shoes to work on makes the pedal travel less and the brakes feel more confidence inspiring.

I know I had to adjust them to make it catch after 2 spins, so that could possibly be why mine are shaking so bad, the rears may not be functioning as they should.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:48 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Losiracer2 View Post
It could be causing my front brakes to overwork, thereby getting hot and causing the shudder.
I recently did a brake upgrade but only did the fronts, and I haven't actually deeply looked at the rear drums. But I think I will now, that completely slipped my mind, this could possibly be my issue.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:50 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by SunkistCB7 View Post

For the time being, I just ran some thicker fluid through the pump, cut the belt, and drained the fluid so it doesn't go shooting out the reservoir. (Personally, power steering makes me uneasy - I'll swap the rack eventually)
Did this make a real difference in the feel of the car or performance/maintenance? What fluid exactly?
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:18 PM   #33
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another thing I could try is adjusting my rear drum brakes.
On a side note. Not to highjack thread..
Over the weekend my passenger rear wheel cylinder exploded bleeding brake fluid all over my driveway (yay! ). Also managed to crush my exhaust at the local gas station (picks up better on the highway now haha). But if you haven't done wheel cylinders and like me (over 200k) I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND at least checking them, save yourself a headache.

It will also motivate you to swap in rotors (I remembered why I hate rear drums)
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Old 05-15-2014, 08:24 AM   #34
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The car has done this since I've owned it. At speeds 60mph+ when brake pressure is applied, the steering wheel shakes violently to the point where it hurts my freaking wrists. I have no clue what it could be. This is the only time it does it. All my (front) brakes are new and exact spec along with pads, they have been taking care of (correct fluid/amount of fluid, bleed when need be, etc etc).

I replaced the tie rods, cv axles (along with the whole joint of course), wheel bearings and hub bolts and had an alignment done, twice, all very recently as well. The problem neither progressed or improved but remained. It does not pull to one side or the other.

Some things it does need in the undercarriage is bushings in general, along with sway bar bushings. Could bushings really cause the wheel to shake that bad?
Have you tried to put front wheels on rear and rears on front? Maybe one of your front wheels is bent.
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Old 05-15-2014, 02:07 PM   #35
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Have you tried to put front wheels on rear and rears on front? Maybe one of your front wheels is bent.
ROFL

+1 This is actually a great idea
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Last edited by SunkistCB7; 05-15-2014 at 02:08 PM. Reason: Didn't even cross my mind
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Old 05-16-2014, 09:16 PM   #36
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Warped rear brake drums will not cause your steering wheel to vibrate or shake.
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:03 PM   #37
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I will let watchers of this thread know that I will not get to this bottom of this problem if you were waiting for an answer from me. Had to sell the car (well, will be very very soon) due to a cross country move coming up and the car will not make it there. Though I plan on buying another cb7 anyway...
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Old 05-22-2014, 10:33 PM   #38
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As a watcher of this thread I will tell you it's just like the other hundreds with this issue......unsolved...
Not a single one of them has a post from the op that says I fixed such and such and now no more shaking.
Not even mine
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