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Old 06-26-2015, 01:26 AM   #1
lameshitss
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Question Best way to remove broken lower strut bolt?!?!

In the process of trying to remove and replace struts on a 92 LX sedan and while trying to remove the bottom bolt (that goes through the bushing at the bottom of the strut) the head of the bolt broke off. Anyone have this happen to them and how did you go about removing the bolt?? This is really frustrating cause it has me stuck and it's mad sketchy driving around knowing that it could come out at anytime.
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Old 06-26-2015, 01:41 AM   #2
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Are you replacing the struts? If so, cut the nut off the other end, buy a replacement bolt.
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Old 06-26-2015, 01:50 AM   #3
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The bolt is stuck pretty bad I feel like even if I'm able to cut the nut off the bolt will still be stuck inside. It seems almost welded it was not going at all when I was trying to get it loose.
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Old 06-26-2015, 12:20 PM   #4
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After cutting of the nut, soak it with PB Blaster overnight if needed. Use a punch or something that fits in the hole and sledge hammer/air hammer.

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Old 06-26-2015, 01:34 PM   #5
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I used a hacksaw on mine. Breaker bar did nothing, 2 nights of soaking it did nothing, heat did nothing, air hammer did nothing. I didn't have room for the whole hacksaw handle so I held the blade in my hand with a glove and sawed in the middle. It took me 3 hours and 40min............

Good luck....
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Old 07-05-2015, 10:03 PM   #6
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Exclamation Update

So I was able to cut off the nut the bolt was screwed into using an angle grinder (which I recommend for fastest removal, yet kinda sketch if you've never used power tools) but the bolt still won't budge. I tried hammer and punch for about an hour or two and also tried drilling in to try an easy-out or maybe even just drilling through the whole thing but I can't get further than a half-inch in no matter how long I have the drill on it. Only ideas I have left are using a torch on the bolt (I've heard many pros and cons to this) or maybe just cutting through the bushing which I really 100% do not want to end up doing. Any ideas from anybody would be greatly appreciated...!?!?!

btw: was able to change the front 2 struts perfectly fine nothing broken in less than 20 mins, so weird how the front can be in much better mechanical condition than the back where every bolt breaks with force.. Hondas man smh
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:27 AM   #7
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The fronts are usually serviced more than the rears, so that's probably why the fronts didn't give you too much trouble. I'd say throw the torch on there and see if that'll break it loose. Can't be any worse than cutting through the bushing, right? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Old 07-06-2015, 02:16 AM   #8
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i guarantee that you will need to replace the bushing. it is very common for the bolt to become 100% seized in there. the bushing is called "rear lower strut mount" and here is a guide on how to replace it: http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=8980
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:05 AM   #9
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Hacksaw, take water breaks ..... you will need it.


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Old 07-06-2015, 09:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cp[mike] View Post
i guarantee that you will need to replace the bushing. it is very common for the bolt to become 100% seized in there. the bushing is called "rear lower strut mount" and here is a guide on how to replace it: http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=8980
Thanks for the link. I finally went to install the rear struts in Ruby (still has the original rear struts at 330,000, no leaking, no bouncing); the bolt turned a little and I heard a tearing sound - the rubber in the bushing tearing - stopped right there so I could still drive it. Ordered OEM bushings and bolts. I'll probably wind up using my sawzall or cutoff wheel to cut through the metal part of the bushing and bolt, then the sawzall to cut the bushing sleeve to get it out of the knuckle. I've used a large bolt and washers/spacers to replace the sway bar bushings in my 99 Ford E350, so I may try that for installing the bushings instead of hammering. If it works out, I'll add that info to the thread as well.
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Old 07-10-2015, 10:58 PM   #11
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Question good news and bad news

Cut through bushing, bolt came out and replaced both. Quite easy compared to what this project has consisted of, wish I could of have this knowledge from the beginning.

Obviously now that something finally went right something always has to go wrong next right?

With the strut removed we need to take off the springs but when we compressed the springs and tried taking the bolt at the top off it will spin which didn't happen in the front so now I'm stumped. I'm guessing it should be an allen at the top but none of the ones we tried worked. It should be a 6mm but if it doesn't work what should we do ??? This project is slowly dragging itself on, something I thought was going to take a weekend is taking a lot longer..
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:38 AM   #12
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Use a impact gun if you are not, this should do the trick. I thought the top allen key was a 8mm. Rag and vice grips on the strut shaft may do. But i have to stress that you are playing with fire here. When that top nut comes off the spring is going to want to explode off!
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:05 AM   #13
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Just rattle gun it haha, fixes everything.
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Old 08-01-2015, 12:27 PM   #14
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by cp[mike] View Post
i guarantee that you will need to replace the bushing. it is very common for the bolt to become 100% seized in there. the bushing is called "rear lower strut mount" and here is a guide on how to replace it: http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=8980
So we got the left strut and bushing/mount in no prob, the right side a bit more difficult tho, hammered it in but it half way in and don't seem to be going anywhere, know of any tricks to get it the rest the way in ???
We've tried grease, pb blaster heating the knuckle, bunch of stuff still not working
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Old 08-01-2015, 09:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lameshitss View Post
So we got the left strut and bushing/mount in no prob, the right side a bit more difficult tho, hammered it in but it half way in and don't seem to be going anywhere, know of any tricks to get it the rest the way in ???
We've tried grease, pb blaster heating the knuckle, bunch of stuff still not working
Use another jack to push the bushing and shock up far enough to get the bolt through. Be creative.
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Old 08-01-2015, 10:27 PM   #16
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Easiest way:

1: Cut off head and tail of bolt, cutting between the control arm/bushing and inside of shock ear/tab on both sides. Angle grinder with a cutting wheel(wheel of death) works quickest, or reciprocating saw(sawzall).
2: Remove shock.
3: Using a wood hole saw(I think 1.25" is what I used), WITHOUT a pilot bit on the inside of the hole saw, saw out the rubber part of the bushing. Should only take about 30 seconds to go completely through and if you used the right size hole saw, should completely remove the rubber.
Like this(not a CB7 specific picture, but shows how to do it)

4. Using whatever straight blade saw you like(hacksaw, keyhole saw, or the easiest, reciprocating saw) cut a groove into the sleeve of the bushing that's now left in there.
5. Using a cold chisel, hammer out the sleeve.
6. Press in new bushing.

Done. Took me about 15 minutes a side when I did mine, from jacking the car up, to setting it down with the new suspension installed.
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Old 08-04-2015, 11:40 AM   #17
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