Battery keeps on dying now won't start after jumping

[Hondaricer777]

I have a Automatic 1991 Honda Accord SE F22a6

With a new battery, alternator, spark plugs, and distrubitor.

This car has been sitting for 7 years, but got it running again
from a shop about 3 months back.

Just 2 weeks ago this problem happened.

I drove my car one day, turned it off twice, and on the third time,
it didn't start. I noticed that the clock and dash lights
were dim, but i thought that was just me.

I jumped it, and then it was fine.

Yesterday the same scenario happened, but this time
it was dying as i was driving. When i started to slow
down on turns it would slowly lose power. Couldn't get
past 15 mph. The last turn killed it, my RPM gauge was
fluctuating out of control and my S light blinked 4, 5 times,
and then stayed on. But i'm not sure if that was just
because the battery was dying. and before it died,
it was sputtering, almost backfiring, then died.
Luckily i was able to turn into a parking lot.

So i had to leave it in the parking lot of a shopping plaza.
(It was 6 in the morning and I was far from home. Long story..)

I've been having various electrical problems with it, but this
is my main concern. I'm really close to just selling my cb7.

I would have taken it back to the garage, but they didn't
know anything about the electrical problems that i've
had before, so i thought i'd ask other cb owners since their
answers would be more reliable.

Please Help. Thanks in advance.

[CB7-SE-1991]

Check your Main Relay and Check if the battery is still good, and also check you ground wires. And is you check engine light on?

[Krishan-CB7]

You need to pull the code from it the same way you pull a check engine light

To do this locate the blue male connector above/around the passenger side plastic kick plate

Jump the connector with a paper clip

It will give you long blinks and short blinks

long blinks = 10
short blinks = 1

add them together and tell us the code

[RUGER 2.2L]

You need to pull the code from it the same way you pull a check engine light

To do this locate the blue male connector above/around the passenger side plastic kick plate

Jump the connector with a paper clip

It will give you long blinks and short blinks

long blinks = 10
short blinks = 1

add them together and tell us the code

Dude you didn't even give him a chance to say if his check engine light was on or not. And you quoted tippey on how to pull codes with out even giving him credit for it. Good job

To the OP even thought your alternator is "new" it could be bad. It happens. I am assuming that the shop installed it? Do you have any documentation that the new alternator was in fact new? I have been screwed by shops many times. I am almost positive that one of them charged me full price for junkyard parts claiming that they were "new" (I knew a lot less back then). But that is definitely something to consider. If you have a voltage tester you can put it on the battery while the car is running. If your alternator is working I believe it should read approximately 14 volts and 12 if it is not working. If you don't have that, most auto parts stores have a deal that they can run out and plug into your car that diagnoses the whole electrical system (battery, alt, etc.) or at least they do in my area. If any of the new parts are bad, the shop should warranty them. I hope this info helps. And try not to give up on the car man. Unless there are multiple broken parts that are more expensive than the car's value, I would hang on to it and try to fix it yourself. Good luck!!

[Noridetoolow]

If you don't have that, most auto parts stores have a deal that they can run out and plug into your car that diagnoses the whole electrical system (battery, alt, etc.) or at least they do in my area. If any of the new parts are bad, the shop should warranty them. I hope this info helps. And try not to give up on the car man. Unless there are multiple broken parts that are more expensive than the car's value, I would hang on to it and try to fix it yourself. Good luck!!

X2!!! Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, ORiellys.....you should have one or more of them in CO and they all will come out to your car and test everything right there on the car. They will even charge your battery for you for free most of the time. Try this and if they show anything the shop replaced at fault, go back and have it replaced by the shop, if they installed a new alternator...it should have a lifetime warranty anyway.

[Hondaricer777]

Check your Main Relay and Check if the battery is still good, and also check you ground wires.
And is you check engine light on?

how do i check the main relay?

i can't check it while its in that
busy parking lot plaza, can i?

i probably can't get it to start,
so i'm just thinking that i should
just take it back to the shop.

You need to pull the code from it the same way you pull a check engine light

To do this locate the blue male connector above/around the passenger side plastic kick plate

Jump the connector with a paper clip

It will give you long blinks and short blinks

long blinks = 10
short blinks = 1

add them together and tell us the code

my check engine light hasn't
been coming on, even before
ignition. so i'm not sure i'll get
any results from that.

but if i do try to do that,
only putting in a paperclip with
the connecter will jump it?
i dont need any wires?

To the OP even thought your alternator is "new" it could be bad. It happens. I am assuming that the shop installed it? Do you have any documentation that the new alternator was in fact new? I have been screwed by shops many times. I am almost positive that one of them charged me full price for junkyard parts claiming that they were "new" (I knew a lot less back then). But that is definitely something to consider.

all papers said that it was new,
and its a trusted family-owned
garage. but i don't know why
they haven't been able to do much
with my car. makes me mad too.

X2!!! Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, ORiellys.....you should have one or more of them in CO and they all will come out to your car and test everything right there on the car. They will even charge your battery for you for free most of the time. Try this and if they show anything the shop replaced at fault, go back and have it replaced by the shop, if they installed a new alternator...it should have a lifetime warranty anyway.

i'll try to do that if i ever get my car to move.

Thanks for all the replies!

[F20A CB7]

You said your rpm guage was being silly, that's usually a sign of a icm, that's inside ur dist, but you said its new.

I would say sand the ground on the thermo stat housin.

Maybe bad altenator if you are loosing charge. Now its completety dead.

[CB7-SE-1991]

here is a DIY By 4CYLPOWER92 about your relay

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ght=main+relay

[Noridetoolow]

Take the battery out of the car and take it to the auto parts store. They will test and charge for free. If it was dead, allow them to charge it then install it back into the car. If the car cranks, then drive it back to the auto parts store and have them check everything. Im feeling the alternator but it very well could be a totally dead battery as well and either could be new and still go or be bad....thats what warranties are for

[ajaxlovesCB7]

alternator perhaps???

[jewelproject]

You might have an electrical cluster. meaning your electrical system is glitching somewhere. which can cause your car to die, sputter, stall or plainly act stupid when everything seems normal. if thats the case, take your ride to nearest honda dealership. Because they are the only ones who can rest your ecu and find the glitch.

[djcaz_aom]

You might have an electrical cluster. meaning your electrical system is glitching somewhere. which can cause your car to die, sputter, stall or plainly act stupid when everything seems normal. if thats the case, take your ride to nearest honda dealership. Because they are the only ones who can rest your ecu and find the glitch.

WTF?

Of course our clusters are electric. You can reset the ecu by pulling the fuse for the ecu. The CB chassis is very simple and can be fixed at home.

The reason for this site and a member asking a question is to get input from people that have actual knowledge in the matter.

To the OP. Get the battery and the alternator checked first. It sounds like a bad alternator, but you didn't mention anything about the battery light coming on. Also check to see if Dash Fuse #2 is still good.

Once that is cleared up, Hook up the battery to the positive wire only and get a test light and jumper the negative wire.

If the wire lights up with the ignition off, something is drawing a current from the battery.

The easy way to find the circuit responsible is pulling each fuse one by one with the test light still in place. When the test light goes out, you have found the bad circuit.

[Apexkiss]

bad alternator. had the same problem.
go to autozone and get it tested. if bad you can get a lifetime warranty on a new one.
-Lee

[thrush f22a4]

i have the sam exact problem that the OP is describing, only i had enough time to get my altenator tested before it completely died, and it tested at 14.2 volts, so i got a new battery, still acted funny. and i got a new ditributor about a month before all of this. and i couldn't find any apparent drain on the system and i am completely stumped. so now its sitting in my driveway wasting away