ac components you MUST replace

[90blueCb7]

ac went out, compressor locked up... have 230k on her.
i want to replace everything i need to have cold working ac again.
im curious from those that have done this before.. the evaporator has 3 options, pad fitting, threaded fittings, or flange type mount. they all say 92 accord ex. <on parts geek> im hoping someone knows which one i need to buy?
thanks

[s2cmpugh]

I'll try to help as best I can as I'm going through the same situation right now and have done a lot of research. If it were me, and since the compressor may have exploded and sent debris throughout the entire system, I'd replace the condenser, evaporator, expansion valve, compressor, and no matter what, the receiver/dryer. You could "flush" out the system with the compressor removed, but I see this is possibly moving debris instead of removing it from the system. The good news is that these parts pare still really affordable on rockauto.com; even from OEM suppliers.

For your evaporator question, you need to look at how the evaporator inlet/outlet tubes connect to the rest of the system at the engine bay side of the firewall. My car uses threaded fittings, similar to connecting two hoses together, but yours might be different. Match up the pictures of the parts with what the actual connection looks like on the car.

Now onto the "difficult" and sometimes controversial item; refrigerant. Our cars originally came charged with R12, but since 1996 all cars were required to run R134a. Some shops, craigslist, ebay, etc. still might sell you R12, although the law says you must possess the appropriate license to purchase R12. The biggest issue with retrofitting an R12 to R134a system revolves around the type of oil used for lubrication. R12 systems use mineral oil and R134a systems use PAG oil, or something similiar. Mineral oil is NOT COMPATIBLE WITH r134a REFRIGERANT AND WILL CAUSE TOTAL SYSTEM FAILURE. To convert the system over, you must be sure that all mineral oil is removed. The good news is that by replacing all the above listed parts, you're pretty much covered in that aspect. If you decide on R134a, charge the system with the appropriate amount of R134a and PAG oil, as determined by a R12 to R134a conversion chart; easily found online.

Now, alternatives do exist to R12 and R134a; HFC based refrigerants. Red Tek 12a, Freeze 12, etc. are some of the brands that exist. These are compatible with our system and will in face reduce head pressures and still provide cold air. I'll let you research these on your own.

If you perform the charging yourself, you will need a good set of manifold gauges, a vacuum pump (used to fully evacuate the system to remove air and moisture, and to check for leaks) along with the appropriate amount of your selected refrigerant BY WEIGHT.

EricTheCarGuy did a fairly decent video on a/c repair and charging, I"ll post them to here to get you started. RESEARCH THIS TOPIC A LOT; THERE IS A LOT GOING ON WITH A/C SYSTEMS

[greenquark]

Hi there, I will ask a question because I have the same issue with AC.


I have thought a couple of times to fix the AC but, I always back off . The problem is I storage my baby during winter ( December to April ).

Isn't long term storage bad for AC? I live in Canada so AC is not a need, but I have always wanted to fix the AC system.

[s2cmpugh]

Hi there, I will ask a question because I have the same issue with AC.


I have thought a couple of times to fix the AC but, I always back off . The problem is I storage my baby during winter ( December to April ).

Isn't long term storage bad for AC? I live in Canada so AC is not a need, but I have always wanted to fix the AC system.

The only issue I could see storing it for that long is not running the a/c so the oil can lubricate the seals, etc. That being said, I would honestly consider it a small concern. The main thing is to make sure that the a/c system has no leaks, and is charged with the appropriate oil and refrigerant combo. I do think the owners manual actually states to run the a/c compressor at least once a month or something just to keep things lubricated.

[greenquark]

That was what happened to me the first winter I put it away. I got the AC system repaired and the first winter up here, When I took it out, I got a leak right away. . If I had access to it while stored, I would reconsider since I could run it once a month.

The only issue I could see storing it for that long is not running the a/c so the oil can lubricate the seals, etc. That being said, I would honestly consider it a small concern. The main thing is to make sure that the a/c system has no leaks, and is charged with the appropriate oil and refrigerant combo. I do think the owners manual actually states to run the a/c compressor at least once a month or something just to keep things lubricated.

[greenquark]

Just to follow this thread. I decided to fix my A/C system.
The high pressure valve had a leak , I replaced it and I am checking for leaks. I tried to follow the instructions to check for leaks and this is what is happening:

I put some gas with dye in the system to check for leaks. I checked pressure on the low pressure valve and let's say it reads 35 psi . When I start the compressor, that 35 psi reading goes down almost to 5 psi. The AC does not cool down, but at least there is no leak ( none that I could see with the UV lamp) . And there is pressure on the high pressure valve also ( next to the passenger side in the engine bay.

How long is a safe time to be sure there is no leak?

Next step is to change the drier system ( next to the power steering reservoir) and to vaccum the system and replenish.

When I go to the store I see the containers that says : freon gas with lubricant and antileaks and so on. Should I trust that or should I get it to an A/C profesional?

[illinois_erik]

(care 30) mixed r290/R600a is a suitable replacement for r12 w/o retrofitting anything. just be aware that it is propane/isobutane, so youll want to pull vacuum and check for leaks before charging the system

https://www.es-refrigerants.com/

[greenquark]

(care 30) mixed r290/R600a is a suitable replacement for r12 w/o retrofitting anything. just be aware that it is propane/isobutane, so youll want to pull vacuum and check for leaks before charging the system

https://www.es-refrigerants.com/

I forgot to mention I have not turned the AC for over 2 years. I was even surprised that the clutch engaged!

I didn't get what you said quite correctly. What is care 30? Should I buy a bottle of R290 and another of R600a. Back in the days my mechanic did the retrofitting.

[illinois_erik]

I forgot to mention I have not turned the AC for over 2 years. I was even surprised that the clutch engaged!

I didn't get what you said quite correctly. What is care 30? Should I buy a bottle of R290 and another of R600a. Back in the days my mechanic did the retrofitting.

sorry, CARE30 is the nomenclature for these new iso/pane refrigerants.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Care_30

thats probably more of a technical term for the people in the industry, for us laymen an isobutane R12 replacement is what youd be searching for.

but disregard what ive posted, looking more into it to run CARE30 youd need a compatible compressor, and i wasnt able to find any for automotive or interchange for the CB.


but,that website I posted, they have a lot of products, they might be able to guide you in the right direction as they have a whole plethora of products.

here is an r12/r134a substitute for automotive use.
https://www.es-refrigerants.com/prod...ue/details.asp

kinda pricey, but how much would a conversion be total

[masospaghetti]

I would replace all o-rings that have been disturbed and leave the rest alone. Replace the drier, install conversion R-134a fittings on the service ports, vacuum, and recharge.

Obviously it would be better to replace ALL o-rings but I've had good luck so far doing the above.

[greenquark]

Thanks for the details!!

In your opinion, me having not touched the A/C system for over 2 years.

What would be the best course of action? I even got an alternator belt ( shorter one) in case I need to take the compressor out and keep driving the car.

When my mechanic did the conversion from R12 , he mentioned something like the "stuff" compressor were locked and so on. This was 6 years ago. I assume this could be true again, unless he was making things up.

[GTRON]

I would replace all o-rings that have been disturbed and leave the rest alone. Replace the drier, install conversion R-134a fittings on the service ports, vacuum, and recharge.

Obviously it would be better to replace ALL o-rings but I've had good luck so far doing the above.

Worked great for me!

[GTRON]

(care 30) mixed r290/R600a is a suitable replacement for r12 w/o retrofitting anything. just be aware that it is propane/isobutane, so youll want to pull vacuum and check for leaks before charging the system

https://www.es-refrigerants.com/

Not sure if I would want to use propane, would make finding leaks a little scary.

[illinois_erik]

Not sure if I would want to use propane, would make finding leaks a little scary.

isobutane is just as flammable, whats scarier is almost all new refrigeration equipment is using it (refrigerator, window a/c etc) and they dont tell you the potential hazard and new stuff is made to fail so..having a kitchen full of heavier than air explosive gas could be bad.

[greenquark]

Update: I went to the specialist today to maintenance the AC system.

The guy didn't have the adapter for the high pressure valve to connect the hose.

The perfomed a 10 minute vaccuming through the low pressure valve only. Refilled the system with refrigerant and the vent didn't throw cold air. I said the high pressure line was not vacuumed he said:

1. The system can be serviced/ vacuumed through the low pressure port, without using the high pressure port.

2. The system must have clogged somewhere so the machine didn't performed a correct vacuuming.

3. Most likely is the expansion valve, and not to worry about replacing the dryer.


Any thoughts about this?


Questions :

1. What is the correct amount of refrigerant used for this car? honda accord 1990 dx already retrofitted for r134a refrigerant .

2. What is the correct retrofit extension for the high pressure port? ( Mine is a bit thicker than the tire valve) .

By the way...they kept asking what year and they kept repeating 99 honda...lol... I guess there are not to many around here