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Old 07-12-2018, 06:35 PM   #1
CB9_IS_2_BETTER
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H22a no power

I swapped a jdm h22 into my 1991 accord ex wagon about 8 months ago and it has never really felt like it has the power it should. About 2 months ago I finally read my cel codes and had EGR fault, MAP fault, and CYP fault. I took the map sensor off, checked my wiring and checked voltages to alldata and everything looked good so I put it back together, then I realized that I had wired my CYP sensor backwards in the swap and fixed that, and I left the EGR(i pulled the control solenoid in the swap and need to find my cut wires to fix). So I reset my ecu and was only left with the egr code which i expected, and for the next 2 days it was everything I dreamed of doing my swap, but then went straight back to how it was before, laggy and it feels weaker than my old f-series. Now sometimes it feels alright and sometimes it can only crawl up in rpms. If anyone has any clue on this it would be greatly appreciated, I am sorry for the long post I just wanted to be descriptive. Thanks
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Old 07-12-2018, 08:34 PM   #2
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I’ve experienced a laggy feeling that was due to a failing o2 sensor. It eventually threw code 43 (fuel supply system, more often indicative of the o2 sensor than anything else). Aside from the things you mentioned, ignition timing, and valve timing, that’s all I’ve got.
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:09 PM   #3
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I don’t have an answer, but maybe if you give us the ECU you’re running, the ranges you acquired when doing your diagnostics, and current timing possibly somebody can chime in? If you have access to ALLDATA, I’m going to assume you know how to check for proper o2 signals. If not we can help with that for sure.

Other than swapping a known good distributor I got nada. It’s a weird one.
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:12 PM   #4
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Thanks a lot, that will be the first thing I try. I would honestly like to go through and replace all my sensors but oem is just so expensive, have you had any luck with aftermarket o2?
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:17 PM   #5
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I am running a p13, and have not checked for proper o2 but will do that this weekend before I replace the sensor. I have been wanting to replace my distributor for a while just to start fresh with it, I have had to replace coil and I know it leaks, but again OEM is so expensive and I have heard mixed things about aftermarket distributors. I am not a mechanic by trade and am capable but still learning a lot. I did the engine swap and 5 speed conversion at the same time and was my first big project.
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:30 PM   #6
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What ECU is being used?

Was the fuel filter replaced during the swap, or at least somewhat recently?

Did you perform a compression check on the engine when you got it?
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Old 07-13-2018, 04:40 AM   #7
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As far as the o2 sensor goes, your best bet it to stick with Denso or NTK. Avoid Bosch.
Get the appropriate sensor for your car’s year and trim. That way, it’ll plug right in with no modification. Assuming you haven’t already cut your wiring. You want to avoid modifying the o2 sensor harness if at all possible.
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Old 07-15-2018, 09:45 PM   #8
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Thanks guys, I will be replacing fuel filter, o2 sensor, plugs and wires, air filter, and possibly map sensor I will let you know if anything changes.
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Old 07-16-2018, 09:39 AM   #9
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Youíre just throwing parts at it hoping for a fix. Give us your timing and diagnostic specs from the sensors and o2 fluctuations.
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Old 07-16-2018, 09:45 AM   #10
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Aside from the MAP sensor, all those other parts are things that require routine replacement, anyway. His willingness to replace them now would likely insinuate that they were not done at the time of the swap. So even if the car is seemingly in top shape, those parts are worth replacing.
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Old 07-16-2018, 02:02 PM   #11
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Yea they are all things I have been meaning to do and just reaffirmed from what people said on here, and I am thinking about the MAP because I did have a code, and even though it went away after measuring voltages on it I am still wary of it. I can't remember the exact numbers but something that was supposed to be around 3.0 volts was around 2.8 on mine and I wasn't sure how close it needs to be. Does anyone know if that voltage drops as the sensor wears or is it an all or nothing type thing?
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Old 07-16-2018, 02:04 PM   #12
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Normally I’d agree on the “throwing parts at it” criticism, but it’s very true that all of these things are wear items that should’ve been replaced with the swap. At the very least, replacing them will greatly decrease the pool of possible culprits, should the problem persist.
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Old 07-16-2018, 02:05 PM   #13
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Also I don't know how to check o2 signals or really have any sort of diagnosing equipment other than a bent paperclip haha
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Old 07-20-2018, 03:41 PM   #14
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Did you correctly calibrate the TPS after you did the swap?
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Old 07-20-2018, 08:47 PM   #15
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Iíll get you MAP specs and a troubleshooting tree if I can find one. Iím extremely busy at work lately so it may take a few days.

Please donít take the throwing parts thing in a Richard type of way, I just want to help you fix the actual problem. Im all for the tune up, but let me find a tree before you replace the MAP sensor.
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Old 07-21-2018, 02:22 PM   #16
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P0107




P0108




MAP Sensor - Basically the more vacuum the lower the voltage reading. So at idle you will likely have your lowest voltage.


O2 Sensor - Probe the signal wire(do not cut). At temperature, and normal conditions, it should read around .45v and fluctuate around there. Give it a good amount of gas, and the voltage should raise to around .8-1v.


Hope this helps, man.
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Old 07-21-2018, 02:47 PM   #17
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Old 07-21-2018, 06:43 PM   #18
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Thanks a lot guys. I just got my parts today but have to wait until tomorrow to do all this because it is raining and I don't have a garage to work in. I bought an o2 sensor but will check mine first as it seems to be a pretty simple test and I would like to know regardless. I have the 92-95 obd1 h22a and both those tests are for the obd2, will it still be the same? I have a friend with access to alldata and the test for the map I pulled up was different. I checked all the 5v checks that this has and they were good, but it told me to check voltage between 2 pins on the ecu and it should be around 3.0 but mine was only like 2.8 and I don't know if that is close enough. The only reason I am wary about the map is because I had a cel code for it, but disappeared after I messed around with it doing those checks. Also I did not even know about the tps calibration I will definitely check that tomorrow too. I really appreciate all the help and advice guys thanks a lot.
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Old 07-21-2018, 07:56 PM   #19
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So you have 5v, this is good.

You need to know if the sensor is giving the ECU the correct voltage at different vacuum levels. Iíll see what the OBD1 tests are for you later to see if itís different. I just picked a car I knew had an H22a in it.

The diagnostic tree is just there to tell one of the problem is in the sensor, the wiring, or ECU.
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:05 PM   #20
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2.8 volts is fine, volt meter calibration or differentiation alone could be the .2 or .3 volts. If you have not calibrated your meter, do that first to see what the nominal reading of the meter is. Touch the leads of the meter together and see what it reads. If the meter reads .3 volts, for example, and the voltage you are reading is 3.3 volts, then the actual voltage is 3.0 volts. It does NOT have to be exactly what spec is to be fine. Remeber how old this car is, resistances in wiring will fluctuate over the life of a vehicle because of too many variables to get into. If you want to replace the map, fine go for it, from what you describe, sounds like a likely culprit. Tests between obd 1 and 2 vehicles would be close enough to the same that there isnt any difference in voltage or resistance, so you can go by those tests.
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