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Does anyone have any experience installing GFCI outlets?

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    #16
    Originally posted by deevergote View Post
    That's seems to be how it's looking. The combo unit that was there previously worked with four separate connections, though. I don't get it.
    A standard combo switch only needs 1 hot wire coming from the power source. A GFCI combo switch needs 1 hot wire for the outlet, then a pigtail to the switch.

    Standard combo switch wiring diagram for you to compare:


    I think the 3rd mystery wire goes to another outlet since your light switch doesn't seem to be working with the current configuration (which means there aren't 2 source/power wires).

    When the circuit breaker is on, are you sure there isn't an outlet or appliance that isn't working near your bathroom (possibly an outlet hidden behind furniture)?
    Last edited by Blk EX Coupe; 02-02-2017, 04:55 PM.

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      #17
      Got it!
      I added a wire from the hot terminal to one side of the switch. The other side is attached to a wire running up toward the ceiling, which seemed the logical choice for the ceiling lights. Now both the outlet and the switch are working perfectly! I capped and taped the mystery wire. If I discover a non-working outlet, I'll assume that's why and I'll stick it back in.

      I'm quite sure I violated code, as I used a red wire for the jumper (should have been black, but Lowes was all out of black, and I'm quickly losing sunlight!) Regardless, at least the jumper will be obvious!



      Half of my kitchen is apparently on the same breaker as my bathroom (on the shared wall side). All outlets are working, though. That mystery wire has me confused, but whatever... all is working!






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        #18
        Thank you all for the help. I was completely lost with this stupid thing, and you guys really helped me figure it all out. I greatly appreciate it!






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          #19
          Originally posted by deevergote View Post
          Got it!
          I added a wire from the hot terminal to one side of the switch. The other side is attached to a wire running up toward the ceiling, which seemed the logical choice for the ceiling lights. Now both the outlet and the switch are working perfectly! I capped and taped the mystery wire. If I discover a non-working outlet, I'll assume that's why and I'll stick it back in.

          I'm quite sure I violated code, as I used a red wire for the jumper (should have been black, but Lowes was all out of black, and I'm quickly losing sunlight!) Regardless, at least the jumper will be obvious!



          Half of my kitchen is apparently on the same breaker as my bathroom (on the shared wall side). All outlets are working, though. That mystery wire has me confused, but whatever... all is working!
          Glad you got it working.

          If you ever have to plug the mystery wire back in, make sure its on the load side of the GFCI outlet, so the GFCI can protect all the other outlets after it.

          Since you mentioned its shared with your kitchen, then check for outlets that don't work inside of cabinets. The garbage disposal, dish washer, or stove fan come to mind.

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            #20
            I just discovered what the mystery wire is for. It goes to my dining room ceiling fan/light.
            Should that be put on the load side? Or should I just stick it in with the added wire on the switch, as it was previously?






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              #21
              It can go on either and still work.

              If it's on the load side, then when the GFCI trips your dining room fan/light will shut off too.

              If it's on the line side, then when the GFCI trips nothing happens to your dining room light.

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