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G. Wiffington : 1993 Accord EX

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    #46
    As a bit of info after driving around for years I actually prefer the aluminum oil pans now. I've had so many issues sealing the steel ones with a gasket. They always want to leak somewhere. The aluminum ones just require a small gasket and a gasket sealer all the way around, so much easier. Also it would make your header problems go away as stated above. I've purchased 2 from the dealership now.
    MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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      #47
      I cant wait to see the progress.

      1992 Honda Accord EX My Ride Thread H23A BLUE TOP Complete

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        #48
        Originally posted by Jarrett View Post
        The header for any other '92-'96 Prelude would not have worked because of the difference in flange pattern at the cylinder head. You would not have been able to even attach it to the engine.

        As for the length, it sounds like you got a '97-'01 header, instead. The '92-'96 Prelude header is the same length as the CB header. Getting the '92-'96 Prelude VTEC header is akin to buying a header made for a CB with an H22. Maybe that's another casualty of the cheap manufacturing. Who knows?
        True, I forgot that the flange pattern is different between the F22 & H22. I am going to go with the cheap manufacturing lol.

        Originally posted by HenRoc View Post
        Looks awesome man! Did you ever figure out the ECU issue?
        Thank you! I am currently waiting on a P13 in the mail but I did get it running from using a P28. I got my distributor just waiting on injectors & P13. I will report back when I have it all together.

        Originally posted by SSMAccord View Post
        The issue that I encountered with my Euro R swap was interference between the header downpipe and the oil pan. The Euro R uses a stamped steel Accord oil pan and uniquely shaped downpipe to clear the oil pan. I swapped to a cast prelude oil pan to alleviate the issue.

        Downpipe: Euro R vs. Prelude *not my image*
        37180184315_1f1306f841_o by inque80, on Flickr

        Euro-R Oil Pan vs. 97-01 Prelude Oil Pan
        IMG_2648 by inque80, on Flickr
        Nice! For some reason the downpipe I am using is a very close fit to the oil pan but I have some space. How did it do with clearing the crossmember? Did you have to make room?
        Also, just so I know for the future..the oil pan you used was the '97-'01 Prelude?

        Originally posted by Rilas View Post
        As a bit of info after driving around for years I actually prefer the aluminum oil pans now. I've had so many issues sealing the steel ones with a gasket. They always want to leak somewhere. The aluminum ones just require a small gasket and a gasket sealer all the way around, so much easier. Also it would make your header problems go away as stated above. I've purchased 2 from the dealership now.
        That's funny you say that about the leaks because it looks like the pan on mine is a little leaky. I even noticed it when the Euro was still on the palette. I'll end up changing it eventually as well.
        Last edited by Jarrett; 10-26-2017, 03:08 PM.
        Keep Pushing..

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          #49
          The crossmember/stiffener isn't an issue with the either stock downpipe. Certain headers require notching the forward crossmember as you already know.

          The 97-01 Prelude has the cast oil pan, where as the 93-96 Prelude models have a stamped oil pan like the Euro-R. The cast pan does have a bolted on stiffener/clutch cover that I haven't found a way to install without having interference with the Accord support brace. But the oil pan fits perfectly fine without it.

          The main benefit of using the Prelude oil pan is the shape of the sump; it is angled differently from the Euro-R pan and provides clearance for the Prelude downpipe. You can see how the angles are different in the oil pan images.
          http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

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            #50
            Thanks that is useful knowledge for the future.

            I think I saw the clutch cover you are talking about. It looks like the thin metal flywheel cover on the F22s right?
            Keep Pushing..

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              #51
              She Is Alive!

              I have not made any updates on my swap because I have been busy but, the Euro is up & running great!

              Finally got Hondata on Friday & hooked it up on Sunday. I used a calibration that I found on the Hondata forum & it works really well. I have not done much but cruised around my neighborhood but this thing sounds awesome.

              I might get my Dad to ride with me to do a little street tune. No hard pulls or anything, just to try to get a nice partial throttle drive.

              I do have that "whine" noise from the timing belt but, oh well. I read about a bunch of people on the preludeonline.com forum having the same issue after doing the manual tensioner conversion.

              So, now all I have to do is get it to a dyno & tuned. There is a performance shop not too far from me call JE Import Performance Inc. who tune with Hondata that I will probably go to. I have a week off in December so I think I may schedule a session during that week.

              Oh yeah, does it make a difference when tuning in warmer weather vs tuning during colder weather? Since I live on the East Coast the weather is starting to get chilly (48 Degrees as a high today).
              Keep Pushing..

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                #52






                Don't mind the ugly header..cheap ass exhaust paint started pealing off lol.
                Keep Pushing..

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                  #53




                  Keep Pushing..

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                    #54
                    Engine is looking great! Glad you've got it up and running.

                    Yes, there is a difference between a cold weather and warm weather tune. The cooler air is more dense and will cause AFRs to fluctuate in comparison to a warmer environment. Your elevation should be pretty close to zero over in Maryland, though.
                    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                      #55
                      Thanks! Feels good when hard work pays off.

                      Yeah I kinda thought the air temp would have an affect.
                      Keep Pushing..

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                        #56
                        I'm glad you got this up and running. Congrats!!

                        The part I was mentioning in the previous post would replace that stamped part that covers the flywheel.

                        http://www.hondanews.com/releases/19...d-introduction

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                          #57
                          Thank you! Yes I figured that was the part you mentioned.
                          Keep Pushing..

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                            #58
                            Did that ECU come with the Hondata pre-installed? Man I like the ABS delete too, I already have parts I saved from my old sedan but I'm not looking to delete the system unless it fails first.

                            Good work man
                            Henry R
                            Koni/Neuspeed
                            1992 Accord LX R.I.P
                            1993 Accord EX OG since 'o3
                            Legend FSM

                            'You see we human beings are not born with prejudices, always they are made for us,
                            made by someone who wants something' -1943 US War Department video

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                              #59
                              I just sent a P28 to phearable & they installed the Hondata s300.

                              The ABS delete is pretty nice. Only reason I took out mine was because the modulator was leaking. There are so many hard lines coming from that thing & I was not sure where it was leaking from.
                              Keep Pushing..

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                                #60
                                Update from this past week. I was tired of looking at my
                                ugly header that I attempted to paint black which then ended
                                up pealing off. So, I bought some Black colored DEI exhaust wrap from
                                Advanced Auto to wrap the header & the downpipe.

                                Also, I think that the notched part of the front cross member I did
                                was not made far enough. At really low RPMs when I let out
                                the clutch from a stop in first gear I believe I could hear the downpipe
                                right below the flange vibrating enough to hit the cross member.
                                If I revved the engine a little bit to leave from a stop it would not
                                make the noise. It only makes the noise letting out the clutch at lower
                                RPMS. It sounds like a knocking noise. Almost like a loose suspension piece.
                                It is just weird because it sounds like it is coming from
                                the very front of the car. I retightened up the tranny mount to be safe as well.
                                I have never replaced the bushings for my front lower control arms so,
                                maybe since I have those stiff Innovative Mounts it could be stressing on
                                those worn bushings. Hm..might have to jack up the front tires again to see
                                if there is some play in the tires indicating something in the suspension.
                                I did not check the front mount yet to see if maybe it needs to be tightened
                                again. I just hope it is not a clutch or first gear issue! Other than that
                                the Euro-R is running great.


                                Anyway here is the header wrap job:



                                Keep Pushing..

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