92 EX wagon Auto, charging difficulties

[Duner]

F22Chris, Wiring is bone stock, no modifications.
Ashtrain, Thank you for taking the time to post info.
I have read about adding 820k ohm resistor. This seems to benefit people with added stereo systems that feed at the battery and screw up Honda system that reads needs before the battery . I read about one gentleman that wired an additional 3 pin round connector in addition to the 4 pin, that way he could use either 3 or 4 pin Denso alternator. Right now I am thinking about wiring direct from alternator to Battery B+ source. I have a spare 4 pin round plug that goes to alternator. Just have to figure out excite wire and voltage sense wire. One wire lights the battery charge bulb , Might not need that and I think the white/green cuts voltage back . Won't hook that to anything. Thank you for offer to post more pictures, I hope I don't need them. Thanks

[Raf99]

Will a cb7 run /charge if you unplug the ELD?

Good points in here in that the ELD can tell the ECU to not charge the battery. Can't say I've ever seen that in my life though.

"Ran separate wire from Battery + plus to alt + and still no charge. "

"Voltage at alt B+ is 11.7 v and at battery this morning it is 11.8v @ 1800 RPM. "

But I'll agree if voltage off the alt + wire is 11.7V then either it's a bad ALT or ELD.

A bad ground can cause charging issues as well but you'd see 13-14V off the ALT at least.

My money is on this being the issue:
"Replace alt with used from stock, same deal."

Try a brand new ALT.

[Ashtrain]

Verify that the white/green wire is not grounded, the ecu can disable the charging system by grounding this wire,
1. To test the system, verify the Black/Yellow wire at the alternator has battery voltage key on. Then verify that the charge light works, the voltage regulator inside the alternator grounds the White/Blue wire to turn on the charge indicator light.

2. The Electric Load Detection (ELD) circuit also has control of the alternator. To test the ELD circuits, back probe the White/Green (WHT/GRN) wire with a voltmeter, and if the Engine Control Module (ECM) and the ELD system is turning off the alternator, the ECM will ground the WHT/GRN wire. When there is no ground, the alternator should charge. The ECM needs to see a load in the system (blower speed/rear window defogger) and the wheels spinning so it can properly control the WHT/GRN wire. If there is no voltage, remove the WHT/GRN wire and then see if the alternator will charge. If the WHT/GRN wire is unhooked from the alternator, the alternator should charge normally.


3. The White/Red wire is a field return to the ECM for idle up. It's only use is to tell the ECM the load on the alternator for idle up. If all the wires at the alternator voltage drop correctly, and the WHT/GRN wire is not grounded or is removed from the connector and the alternator still will not charge, then the alternator is faulty.

[Duner]

I did the tests as proposed by Ashtrain and everything points to defective alternator.
Thank you to everyone who took time and effort to post.