Disclaimer ****Do this at your own risk, I am in no way responsible for damage done to you or your car, this is just showing you how it can be done.*********
Please read through this to get an idea of the procedures so you do not mess this install up...could be costly if you do. Also visit http://www.apexi-usa.com/documentation.asp to download the manuals and for pictures of the connections if this diy is not enough or difficult to understand
S-AFC2 manual - http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocu...-AFC2Final.pdf
Wiring manual - http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocu..._safc_wire.pdf]
Our ecu code is World H2-a
Parts list:
- SAFC
- Wire harness that has long enough wires to run the unit where ever you want
- 10mm Deep Socket
- Wrench
- Wire strippers and cutters
- 2 Female disconnects
- 2 Male disconnects
- Electrical tape or heat shrink
- heat gun if heat shrink is used
- Crimp tool such as the wire stripper or needle nose pliers
- hobby knife
- wire loom or zip ties (optional)
Depending on how you want to connect all the wires together the rest of the parts list will vary. For the most secure connection you should solder the wires together. You can also use crimp connectors and double up the wires on one side pretty much but this involves cutting ever wire to make the connection. Or you can just strip some of the insulation of the wires from the ecu and twist the safc wires into them and use electrical type to wrap the connection
Soldering:
- Solder Iron $15
- Flux or Solder paste $3
- Solder wire - $4
- Perfect connection
...priceless
And b4 anyone starts saying they don't know how to solder trust me its easy...this was my VERY first time soldering and i did it on an important install like this. I'll try to do a diy on "how to solder also" a little later.
Crimp connectors:
Just use about 6 wire crimp connectors
This install is for cb7's with the f22a1,a4, or a6 motors and also for the f22b motor. Please remember to take your time because you are messing with your ecu and you don't want anything to go wrong with it. The reason i didn't use crimp connectors was because we're working in a limited amount of space and the wires are not long so if you have to take the SAFC off you'll be losing some of the ecu's wire length which may get tricky later on to connect everything back securely and perfectly.
Pre-installation:
Lenghten the wires for the safc's harness and code them. Code them by writting down which wire goes where for the install (wire color, ecu pin, wire color on the ecu's harness, etc.). Connect a male disconnect on the end of the white wire for the safc's harness and a female disconnect for the yellow wire
Installation:
First and foremost disconnect your negative battery terminal and also touch a piece of grounded metal before touching the ecu. I'll skip the lifting of the carpet to expose the ecu part and start with the ecu disconnected from the kick plate.
Use the hobby knife to expose the wires and cut the wire loom and electrical tape. And use wire strippers or the hobby knife to cut away at the ecu's wire insulation but make sure to be gentle and try not to damage wires that do not need to be cut.
The wiring setup should be as follows going from the safc's wire harness to the ecu's wires
SAFC Wire Color ECU
Red - Power Pin A25 Yellow w/ black stripe
Green - Engine RPM Pin A21 Yellow w/ green stripe
Brown - Ground (wire closest to the ecu!) Pin A26 Black w/ red stripe
Black - Ground (wire furthest from ecu!) Pin A26 Black w/ red stripe
Gray - Throttle signal Pin D11 Red w/ black stripe
White - Air Flow Input Pin D17 White w/ blue stripe
Yellow - Air Flow Output Pin D17 White w/ blue stripe
All of the wires except the Air flow wires can be done by just connecting the ecu's wire and the safc's wire together but the air flow wires must be wired as thus:
Cut the white w/ blue stripe wire and connect a female disconnect to the wire that is not connected to the plug. Next connect a male disconnect onto the white w/blue stripe wire that is connected to the ecu's plug. Because we cut this wire it has to have a way to connect easily if the safc is ever removed...this is why we are using disconnects.
Since the white and yellow wire already have their disconnects attached, attach the white (input) wire to the female disconnect on the ecu's wiring and the yellow (output) wire to the male disconnect.
Connect your S-afc harness to the S-afc
Reconnect your negative battery terminal and turn the car on but don't crank the ignition yet. Just make sure the unit comes on. Start the engine if everything seems normal.
finished product...use wire loom or zip ties to make the wires look nice and neat
Please read through this to get an idea of the procedures so you do not mess this install up...could be costly if you do. Also visit http://www.apexi-usa.com/documentation.asp to download the manuals and for pictures of the connections if this diy is not enough or difficult to understand
S-AFC2 manual - http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocu...-AFC2Final.pdf
Wiring manual - http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocu..._safc_wire.pdf]
Our ecu code is World H2-a
Parts list:
- SAFC
- Wire harness that has long enough wires to run the unit where ever you want
- 10mm Deep Socket
- Wrench
- Wire strippers and cutters
- 2 Female disconnects
- 2 Male disconnects
- Electrical tape or heat shrink
- heat gun if heat shrink is used
- Crimp tool such as the wire stripper or needle nose pliers
- hobby knife
- wire loom or zip ties (optional)
Depending on how you want to connect all the wires together the rest of the parts list will vary. For the most secure connection you should solder the wires together. You can also use crimp connectors and double up the wires on one side pretty much but this involves cutting ever wire to make the connection. Or you can just strip some of the insulation of the wires from the ecu and twist the safc wires into them and use electrical type to wrap the connection
Soldering:
- Solder Iron $15
- Flux or Solder paste $3
- Solder wire - $4
- Perfect connection
...priceless
And b4 anyone starts saying they don't know how to solder trust me its easy...this was my VERY first time soldering and i did it on an important install like this. I'll try to do a diy on "how to solder also" a little later.
Crimp connectors:
Just use about 6 wire crimp connectors
This install is for cb7's with the f22a1,a4, or a6 motors and also for the f22b motor. Please remember to take your time because you are messing with your ecu and you don't want anything to go wrong with it. The reason i didn't use crimp connectors was because we're working in a limited amount of space and the wires are not long so if you have to take the SAFC off you'll be losing some of the ecu's wire length which may get tricky later on to connect everything back securely and perfectly.
Pre-installation:
Lenghten the wires for the safc's harness and code them. Code them by writting down which wire goes where for the install (wire color, ecu pin, wire color on the ecu's harness, etc.). Connect a male disconnect on the end of the white wire for the safc's harness and a female disconnect for the yellow wire
Installation:
First and foremost disconnect your negative battery terminal and also touch a piece of grounded metal before touching the ecu. I'll skip the lifting of the carpet to expose the ecu part and start with the ecu disconnected from the kick plate.
Use the hobby knife to expose the wires and cut the wire loom and electrical tape. And use wire strippers or the hobby knife to cut away at the ecu's wire insulation but make sure to be gentle and try not to damage wires that do not need to be cut.
The wiring setup should be as follows going from the safc's wire harness to the ecu's wires
SAFC Wire Color ECU
Red - Power Pin A25 Yellow w/ black stripe
Green - Engine RPM Pin A21 Yellow w/ green stripe
Brown - Ground (wire closest to the ecu!) Pin A26 Black w/ red stripe
Black - Ground (wire furthest from ecu!) Pin A26 Black w/ red stripe
Gray - Throttle signal Pin D11 Red w/ black stripe
White - Air Flow Input Pin D17 White w/ blue stripe
Yellow - Air Flow Output Pin D17 White w/ blue stripe
All of the wires except the Air flow wires can be done by just connecting the ecu's wire and the safc's wire together but the air flow wires must be wired as thus:
Cut the white w/ blue stripe wire and connect a female disconnect to the wire that is not connected to the plug. Next connect a male disconnect onto the white w/blue stripe wire that is connected to the ecu's plug. Because we cut this wire it has to have a way to connect easily if the safc is ever removed...this is why we are using disconnects.
Since the white and yellow wire already have their disconnects attached, attach the white (input) wire to the female disconnect on the ecu's wiring and the yellow (output) wire to the male disconnect.
Connect your S-afc harness to the S-afc
Reconnect your negative battery terminal and turn the car on but don't crank the ignition yet. Just make sure the unit comes on. Start the engine if everything seems normal.
finished product...use wire loom or zip ties to make the wires look nice and neat
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