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Brake light always on unless clutch is pressed

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    Brake light always on unless clutch is pressed

    Hello cb7tuner users! This is my first post on this great site, looking for some help. I have a 1990 accord coupe 5spd, for some reason the brake light is always on! I'm 99% sure its not the e-brake sensor, and its linked to the clutch somehow. If the car is on the brake light on the dash is always on. Once the clutch is pressed all the way in it goes off, but once kicked out it comes back on. Has anyone experienced this before? Any solutions?

    Thanks!!!

    #2
    Welcome!!

    Did you check your brake fluid level?
    Nothing happens when you engage/disengage the ebrake?

    Look under the dash, near the clutch interlock switch and see if you see anything out of place with the wires.

    YouTube Clicky!!

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      #3
      The brake light and the clutch pedal should not share any common circuitry, to my knowledge. In fact, I don't believe the clutch pedal has any connection to the gauge cluster whatsoever! Sounds like some wires might be damaged. You might just have to roll up your sleeves and go digging. Removing the dash may be necessary (annoying, but not difficult.)

      I'd start by inspecting the wires at the clutch pedal and behind the gauge cluster. Then look up the gauge cluster pinout to see which wires go to the brake light. Test for voltage while pressing the clutch pedal to see exactly which wire does something. Once you find the wire that's responding to the clutch pedal, you can just trace it to see where it's been damaged.






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        #4
        The brakes lights are controlled by a switch under the steering column. When the brake pedal is up the brake pedal arm touches the switch and turns off the lights. In cars as old as these it is not unusual to see some flex in assemblies like this. It is likely that when you have the clutch in, the torque from the pedal moves the assembly just enough to push the switch into the brake pedal arm.

        The switch position can easily be adjusted, but some contortionism is involved to get there. There is a doubled nut holding the switch in place. Loosen the locking nut and then you can twist the whole switch assembly so it pushes the switch toward the front of the car. I would do one full turn and then test the lights. Then do another.

        How do I know all this? We got black flagged at our last race because our brake lights weren't going off. We had to figure it out and fix it fast. In our totally stripped interior it took about 7 minutes to fix. In my Fit at home I would be impressed if I could fix it in two hours. Still, if you can reach it, it is an easy adjustment.
        ==========================
        1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
        1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "SpaceEx Starship"
        Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
        Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
        M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel. A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, delta 262 grind, glasspack muffler, PT6 ECU.
        Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid

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          #5
          I think he means the "brake" light in the dash cluster.






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