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Chubbykai/TheNextEpisode : 1989 Honda CRX HF

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    #76
    Originally posted by TheNextEpisode View Post
    omfg hahah
    Damn that's some heat. We're running a full length radiator right now, we'll see if its enough. It really seems like everything has got to come down to reliability. We're hoping to expose and subsequently iron out some of those kinks at the track.

    Obviously arriving at the track with a slow running car > arriving at the track with a non-operational fast car.
    Well you won't be driving that aggressive your first few times out there. That only happened on an all out session at the end of the day where he was aiming for the fastest time possible and he totally beat the crap out of his car.

    You should hit up Matt, JDMxDB8, since he is usually at the events.

    I'll be out at the events when my friend's race car is done. Until then there are no other cars racing from my friends/track group, so I have no reason to go out there.

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      #77
      Well i'm debating again.


      It got small run near the sun roof and a serious Driver side quarter panel (might need new quarter panel)

      I don't know but for 500 for 91 CRX SI hmmmmmmm I'm pretty sure i can work it down to 350 or 400


      the plus is SI (all around disc brake) and Running (so i can drive it home)

      what should i do? Is it worth it?

      Comment


        #78
        Wow.

        Very impressive.

        I <3 build threads. Everytime i read through one im just like, "ugh why can't i find some peoples near to do this so i can hang out and learn some shit lol"

        And on the rotor/caliper DIY lol!

        Ill be following this thread.

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          #79
          Originally posted by Blk EX Coupe View Post
          You should hit up Matt, JDMxDB8, since he is usually at the events.
          Will do.


          Originally posted by XcluziveAZN View Post
          Well i'm debating again.
          I guess it depends on two things.

          1) What are your plans for the car?

          If you're looking to track the car, the fender and sun roof are really not a problem. You'll probably want to pop that sun roof out and replace it with acrylic anyway. And the dented fender on a track car is really just character in disguise.

          The SI is a nice trim, but it's also heavy. Sadly, the 1991 SI was the heaviest CRX model. Both the '90 and '91 weighed in excess of 2170 lbs. Some of that is removable, like the A/C and sunroof. Also, the doors on the 90/91 were much more stout than the 88/89, since they housed the whole seat belt support braces. But, it's not exactly the best starting point.

          If you're looking to daily drive the car, depending on your standards, you might want to wait it out for a cleaner specimen. I'd have a hard time DD'ing a car with major dents/leaks. It's also probably going to be a trick to retain A/C w/ the F22 if you're planning on DD'ing the car.

          2) How much money are you going to be able to free up for the project?

          If you've got a couple thousand bucks ready to sink into a CRX, then the project can probably really take off. If you're a little shallow in the pocket, and I can relate, then it's possible that you'll just end up with a shaky CRX with an unreliable F22 swap.

          The gist is, you don't want to start a project, not have the funds to finish it, and then regret the whole process. The worst part is when you start to second guess the project and start thinking about all the things you could've done to your CB instead.


          SO, if you're planning on racing the car and you have decent money ready, then take the dive and build yourself a CRX racer.

          If you're planning on racing the car and don't have the funds, think some more about what your long term goals are w/ the CB. If you're dead set on racing on a low budget, an SI for 400-500 bucks is definitely going to be a good bet. Again, go for it.

          If you're planning on DD'ing the car with the F22 swap and you have money, take a look at your current DD and see if the F22 CRX is really a wise DD'ing choice. Also, ask yourself if the CRX is in good enough shape to be proud of.

          If you're planning on DD'ing the car and don't really have the money, then you're probably satisfied with the appearance. Again, ask yourself if the money would be better spent on the CB.

          Comment


            #80
            Originally posted by Ralphie View Post
            Wow.

            Very impressive.

            I <3 build threads. Everytime i read through one im just like, "ugh why can't i find some peoples near to do this so i can hang out and learn some shit lol"

            And on the rotor/caliper DIY lol!

            Ill be following this thread.
            Didn't mean to ignore you there!

            Thanks man, we really appreciate your interest.

            hahah I was so proud of the rotor/caliper set up. I was pretty demoralized when the rear Legend swap didn't come together. The suspension geometry/caliper tabs were totally different. Also, the Legend used the new style emergency brakes where the e-brake was literally a drum brake in the hat of the rotor. LAME.

            Anyway, if you have any questions regarding why/how/what we're doing, let us know! If we have any clue of why we're doing it, we'll fill ya in.


            EDIT: As Blk EX Coupe would point out, though, rear brakes as large as the Legend rear brakes have no business being outback on a CRX.
            Last edited by TheNextEpisode; 07-16-2009, 07:11 PM.

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              #81
              The reason I want to get it is for the track and sometime Daily Driving it to switch it up with my CB. I mainly want a car i can mess around with without losing my daily driving (that one thing stop me from really really get into my cb)


              I might just wait a little longer and get my funding little deeper than now. I'm pretty sure another CRX will pop up in the future


              For now i will gather cost on the project and more info before I tackle this.


              Thank man


              This what happen when boredom get to me I'm looking for something new to mess around with)

              Comment


                #82
                Originally posted by XcluziveAZN View Post
                I might just wait a little longer and get my funding little deeper than now. I'm pretty sure another CRX will pop up in the future


                For now i will gather cost on the project and more info before I tackle this.
                I don't think you can go wrong with this strategy.
                Deals are certainly going to come up again.

                Comment


                  #83





                  H coming out with appropriate sadness.


                  With the F tucked back in the Accord bay, we were finally ready to shoehorn the H22 into the rex bay.





                  In a similar fashion to the Accord, the firewall-side engine mount is comprised of a rubber mount that sits on the rear crossmember and a U-bracket that is bolted underneath the intake manifold. The driver’s side mount is comprised of a U-bracket on the driver’s side chassis wall and a rubber mount bolted next to the cam gears.


                  While you’re lowering the engine in, the U-bracket for the rear engine mount keeps the engine from going left or right in the engine bay. The U-bracket for the driver’s side engine mount keeps the engine from going forward and back in the engine bay. It was pretty difficult to get both mounts situated properly at the same time, especially since the rubber bushings in the mounts would bind HARD. They’d bind to the point that you could lift the entire front end of the car through the two binding rubber bushings.

                  Regardless, with a lot of shimmying and shaking and lifting, the engine fit into those two mounts. The transmission-side mount was also sort of a problem. When lowering the H in, we dipped the transmission into the engine bay first. We then couldn’t raise the transmission back up high enough to get the transmission mount to fit properly. Also, the lower A-arm pivot point on the rear crossmember blocked access to the transmission drain plug.









                  We pulled the engine back out at that point, and grabbed a 5 lb hammer. We bashed the lowest part of the passenger-side chassis wall, just above where the transmission housing was. We also hit the chassis around where the transmission drain plug was, with caution not to bend the A-arm mount out of position. It took maybe three attempts of test fitting the engine, but the metal eventually deflected enough for everything to line up.





                  The transmission side U-bracket is supposed to be welded on the passenger side chassis wall. After dropping the engine in multiple times, however, it seemed that it would be much more logical to bolt the U-bracket in. Installing and removing the engine with the U-bracket removed is FAR easier. We drilled through the U-bracket, passenger-side chassis wall, and into the passenger side wheel well and stuck two long engine-mount type bolts through. We also drilled down twice from the top of the mount, for a total of four securing bolts. The mount is now VERY firmly attached, but is still removable.


                  I was a little uncertain on the ESP mount stuff at first. But after working with it, I’m very pleased. They did a good job. Tolerances are tight and appropriate, but there’s enough wiggle room to work with. The pieces are pretty tough, despite their homemade appearance. We’ll see about making some sort of front engine mount, since the kit lacks one.








                  So, physically, the engine fit. We still needed to take care of a lot of peripherals before we'd actually be able to turn the key. More on that in the next update, which I'll try to get up sometime this weekend.

                  Also, we didn't take many good pictures during the swap process. We were so occupied with the process itself that we weren't really thinking about pictures. More appropriate pictures should resume in the next update.

                  Thanks for looking!
                  Last edited by TheNextEpisode; 07-17-2009, 04:47 PM.

                  Comment


                    #84
                    thats gonna be unstopable!
                    Project M3 - http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157903
                    -(B-Pillar Bar Originator)-

                    Comment


                      #85
                      great read guys , any updates ?



                      "You come from a long line of great poets, some of the greatest poets since Homer. One of them said, "The very time I thought I was lost, my dungeon shook and my chains fell off."
                      - James Baldwin, "A Letter to My Nephew," The Fire Next Time.

                      UNI - Facebook - MRT

                      - Accord of the Month: March 2015 -

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                        #86
                        Originally posted by khal.lawson View Post
                        great read guys , any updates ?
                        x2

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                          #87
                          I didn't read the whole thing...just looked at the pictures. but why are you lowering the engine into the bay rather than slide the engine under the car and lift it up? that is the way I've been doing it with my 93 civic, it takes 30min to put the motor in the car that way(h22 or f22)... lowering it into the tiny engine bay is much harder, i think it should be the same with a CRX but i could be wrong .

                          Comment


                            #88
                            Originally posted by cali-racer View Post
                            thats gonna be unstopable!
                            with good brakes it wont
                            to achieve a Fuck, you must first give a Fuck
                            Follow me on twitter @tru_whitetrash

                            Comment


                              #89
                              I love this build!!!! H22 on a chassis weighing less than 2000lbs...Keep up the good work man!! It's going to be a beast when it's done

                              Ronald

                              |~~~~~~~~~~~~- Project CL1 Euro-R continues -~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|

                              Comment


                                #90
                                this car is gonna hot as shnit man. keep it up

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