Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Jdm h22 swap problem

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Jdm h22 swap problem

    So I am having a problem with the h22 swap I had a buddy wire up for me. It was suppose to be done weeks ago but he can't figure out the problem. It runs but seems to be stuttering while idling, and as soon as you give it gas it bogs down and wants to die.

    I searched a lot of h22 swaps hoping to find an answer but just can't seem to find the same one I am having now. If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated.

    #2
    What has been found out so far? Fuel good? Spark good? TPS and MAP sensor wires switched? Correct USDM parts swapped?

    There is a lot that can be wrong...

    YouTube Clicky!!

    Comment


      #3
      I had a similar issue and my issue was I miss wired the map sensor. My remedy was repinned my old accord map sensor since I knew it was good and I had the schematic for it. Or it could be a bad o2 sensor.
      ~Nick~
      FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
      MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

      Comment


        #4
        Well I am picking he car back up Saturday so I can mess around with it, hopefully find the problem. I know the fuel is good and the spark should be good (I was going to check this first when I get it back home). Any suggestion I will try as soon as it is back in my hands.

        Comment


          #5
          Verify map sensor is wired correctly. If it wasn’t make sure to reset the Ecu before you attempt to start it again. Is it throwing any codes?
          ~Nick~
          FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
          MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

          Comment


            #6
            I will check Saturday for codes, as of right now my buddy has been the one working on it. I haven't been over there in weeks since I work and live quite aways from him.

            Comment


              #7
              Was able to get the car back earlier this week, and the first thing I did was pull the codes. I had a tps code and a cyp code. Thought maybe the distributor was 180 out so we flopped the end of the distributor. Definitely wasn't right after that. So I grabbed a spare distributor from my buddies h22 he has sitting in the shop to see if his would fire it up. Well it revved right to redline with a quick blurp of the throttle. Now I just need figure out the tps code, finish wiring in the knock sensor, and try to find a black box for the iabs.

              Comment


                #8
                Well everything is put together, went for a drive and there seems to be a big hesitation. Code 23 popped up but went away and didn't come back but the hesitation persists.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Did the hesitation occur before or after the engine reached operating temperature? Was it sporadic, or was it constant?

                  If it was sporadic and occurred only after the engine had reached operating temperature, my first thought is the o2 sensor. Either it is faulty, or it isn't installed/wired correctly. A failing o2 sensor can cause a hesitation such as you described. However, it would only occur when the ECU had switched to closed loop mode, which is when it uses o2 sensor feedback. It would also cease once the CEL came on, provided the CEL threw the ECU into limp mode.


                  Also, what ECU is being used? I recall trying to help a kid troubleshoot his turbo F22A once, only to learn that he was running a bone stock P06 ECU (because someone on the internet told him to do so.) I don't expect that to be the case here, obviously, but if the ECU is a chipped P28 or something, then I would strongly recommend digging up a known-good P13 for troubleshooting purposes.






                  Comment


                    #10
                    It was only happening around the 3-4.5k rpms every time I would get on it. My thought was pre dentination but fresh fuel was added. It also has a brand new knock sensor. The ecu is a p13, the car idles fine and has power up top after it gets done hesitating.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Try unplugging the o2 sensor. See if that changes anything.






                      Comment


                        #12
                        I will give that a go when I get back to the car, I was also going to try topping off the tank with 93 octane to make sure that isn't the problem.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Well I unplugged the o2 sensor reset the ecu and went for a drive, all that did was make code 23 pop on as soon as I started the car and than code 41 for the o2 being disconnected.
                          So last week I picked up a chipped p28 with a disable knock sensor and had the guy lower vtec to 5k. One thing he forgot to mention was that he also disabled the o2 sensor also, which now is fine since I was trying to diagnose the problem. It runs perfectly fine now on the chipped computer unlike when I tried it with the o2 still plugged on this ecu.
                          There is still a light hesitation but I can atleast drive the car now. I will be ordering a new o2 and rechecking the timing along with the tps just to make sure they are where they suppose to be.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X