Clucking noise when hit brakes or accelerate.

[bjaccord]

Going on the statement that you replaced everything, I would double check the nuts in the front crossmember that hold the torsion rods in place. If you had a loose one it would move back under braking and push forward when accelerating, causing a noise. Make sure the bushings are compressed and the nuts are torqued correctly. Some alignment shops will play with these to correct caster issues, and they slowly work themselves loose if not tightened correctly.

[zedjr10]

It is the control arm. The 2 bushings at v pivots. It slides back and forth when im sure it isn't suppose to do that. MOOG is shit. Everything i have ever gotten moog is sub par it seems. I got some moog outer tie rods and they were shit also. I think i am going to get another mevotech arm for right side.

[Fleetw00d]

When you say "v pivots", do you mean at the lower shock mount, or the inner end? The outer sleeve is moving? Or the inner? When buying Moog stuff, sometimes they have both a budget and better part for the same application. Just checked, Honda doesn't appear to offer just the bushings any more.

[zedjr10]

When you say "v pivots", do you mean at the lower shock mount, or the inner end? The outer sleeve is moving? Or the inner? When buying Moog stuff, sometimes they have both a budget and better part for the same application. Just checked, Honda doesn't appear to offer just the bushings any more.

The 2 bushings that a bolt goes thru. The bushing slides inside of the bracket.I put that control arm about 2 years ago and I remember when i got the part it wasn't assembled and i had to put the shock tower bolts in. It is strange that both bushings slide a little bit. .I already ordered a mevotech replacement. Those are pre assembled and torqued. I got one on the left side. Am never buying moog again for nothing. Their batting average is like a pitchers avg.

[Fleetw00d]

Both the bolt for inner end of the control arm (which threads into the cross member) and the lower shock mount bolt and nut are supposed to be torqued to somewhere around 40 ft-lbs with the vehicle weight on the suspension; this is supposed to clamp the inner sleeve of the bushing so that the rubber flexes with suspension movement - not the sleeve rotating on the bolt (which will wear the bolt and possibly lead to failure).

[zedjr10]

2 shockmounts are 47, pivot bolts are 22 and ball joint on upper arm is 32 ft lbs. Just to clarify. I don't think u want to tighten pivot bolts too tight. The oem i still have was tight to the point of where the pivots just flexed with just hand strength and no aides. The moog arm was ruined on both pivots. I might of overtorqued these when putting on 2 years ago. No way to really torque the right pivot bolt while installed. Pretorqued both pivot bolts to around 22lbs. Car drives like cadillac now. Am officially done with restoring almost every fkn thing on this car. Everything after this now is OCD behavior.

[Rilas]

Just to check Zed when setting the pivot bolt, and the lower shock mount bolt, did you jack up the control arm first?

You have to torque down the bushings where the car would normally sit on the suspension. Otherwise your going to wear out the bushings faster as they have a twist to them from letting the car down and settle on it's own weight. This will cause the bushings to fail prematurely.

[toycar]

Most of the time this is a bushing. You have a hard time visibly seeing or identifying it because it takes the weight of the car shifting forward or backward to provoke it to happen. My guess is it's in the control arm. Almost always is

If they weren't torqued correctly it doesnt matter if they are new or not. Could've failed prematurely from bad torque procedure.

[PakaloloHonda]

This Life is a test
It is only a Test.
Had it been a Real Life,
You would have been given further Instructions,
on Where to Go, and What to Do ...

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