Traction bar with torque mount

[Andrewasoar]

Hey guys so it seems as though my subframe has ripped in half. Yes. Dead centre. Anyways. If I keep this car I'm going to be putting in the explicit speed traction bar. I currently run without the front torque motor mount on my H22 swap. But would you all recommend getting the front torque mount to go along with? What are the advantages and disadvantages besides it holding the motor a bit stiffer. Mind you I do have innovative solid mounts all around. So I'm not sure how much of a difference it'll make. Thank you guys!

[sonikaccord]

pics or not true...
The torque mount is designed to minimize engine movement = more power to the ground in theory. I would recommend it if you can afford it.

The only disadvantage I can think of is added weight.

[Raf99]

pics or not true...
The torque mount is designed to minimize engine movement = more power to the ground in theory. I would recommend it if you can afford it.

The only disadvantage I can think of is added weight.

Agreed. And you will be putting more stress on your rear mount/side mounts which may result in them wearing out quicker.

[Andrewasoar]

You asked for it. Yes I can lift it by hand. Easily.




I suppose I could buy the one with the front torque mount. I deemed it useless when I did my swap. But you guys are right. Plus there's nothing wrong with having some extra stiffness.

[sonikaccord]

That's pretty impressive. The trouble is, ESP isn't making any products at the moment at least for us. Maybe you can find one second hand?

[illinois_erik]

well china has been copying what looks like exactly ESP's bar

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-STEEL-...333815&vxp=mtr

do you have abs? if so youll have a bit of a headache remounting the accumulator

none of the ebay TB's have the billet torque mount like ESP's..guess they want you to reuse the stock one

id just throw in another stock one and use the front torque mount, preludes had them too..for good reason..youre still thrashing the rear and side mounts poly or not. if you were not half a county away Id have one to give you.

or get it welded..and youll need caster readjusted after this ordeal is fixed.

[Andrewasoar]

I thought ESP was down for the time being for vacation or something. Not just not making parts for us. And if that's the case that's pretty lame. I really need it so I can just toss this frame in the scrap pile haha.

But with a traction bar I would just be replacing the subframe correct? If so I'll have to see if they can either A charge me extra to make me one. Or B find one from another company. Which I don't want to do.

Also. How do you guys feel about driving with the subframe like this? Because I drive about two and a half hours a day and it's my only car lol. I have no choice. It's sloppy but manageable.

The price on that eBay TB is insane! But I have a brand new auto zone front torque in my back yard. I bought it when I first got the car because j was told the front was bad. It was. I replaced it. But the fact the PO had the tranny held up by one stud that was undersized and the bracket on the back had no bolts in it was the fact the motor and tranny slapped the fire wall.

[illinois_erik]

I thought ESP was down for the time being for vacation or something. Not just not making parts for us. And if that's the case that's pretty lame. I really need it so I can just toss this frame in the scrap pile haha.

But with a traction bar I would just be replacing the subframe correct? If so I'll have to see if they can either A charge me extra to make me one. Or B find one from another company. Which I don't want to do.

Also. How do you guys feel about driving with the subframe like this? Because I drive about two and a half hours a day and it's my only car lol. I have no choice. It's sloppy but manageable.

The price on that eBay TB is insane! But I have a brand new auto zone front torque in my back yard. I bought it when I first got the car because j was told the front was bad. It was. I replaced it. But the fact the PO had the tranny held up by one stud that was undersized and the bracket on the back had no bolts in it was the fact the motor and tranny slapped the fire wall.

yeah..theyre out of commision for a while it sounds like, shoot them an email or call them and tell them how much youd rather have theirs then another kind..the ebay one costs a bit more than esp's which is laughable, you get more hardware with esp's and probably better quality obviously..i used to see knockoffs for a lot cheaper like a couple hundred

youll be able to get by with it like that, just dont remove it completely, id try to figure something out asap with as little miles traveled as possible while its broke. know anyone with a welder line it up and weld on some scrap metal till you find a replacement. or hit up a pick and pull, theyre easy to remove, if the donor has abs its a little more involved but you could take and swap yours in an afternoon. you could even hold off on an alignment for a bit if you marked the threads on the radius rods and got them back on in the relative same length

[H311RA151N]

You asked for it. Yes I can lift it by hand. Easily.




I suppose I could buy the one with the front torque mount. I deemed it useless when I did my swap. But you guys are right. Plus there's nothing wrong with having some extra stiffness.

Can someone explain to me how this can happen? I see some rust but the metal is still mostly bright where it broke. Funny how it doesn't look like the metal was stressed or bent, just like it was cracked or cut almost. This is new to me. That's for sure.

[illinois_erik]

Can someone explain to me how this can happen? I see some rust but the metal is still mostly bright where it broke. Funny how it doesn't look like the metal was stressed or bent, just like it was cracked or cut almost. This is new to me. That's for sure.

its weird too how each side of the break dont really line up well, those subframes are very flimsy tho maybe 25-30 pounds tops with the radius rods attach which are solid. In the picture the way its broke and how its sitting it almost looks like torsional stress, mix that with interior rust the thin metal and snap..i wonder if someone even heated it up at some time making it brittle enough to snap.. who knows though, im sure some engineer will on here though.

[H311RA151N]

its weird too how each side of the break dont really line up well, those subframes are very flimsy tho maybe 25-30 pounds tops with the radius rods attach which are solid. In the picture the way its broke and how its sitting it almost looks like torsional stress, mix that with interior rust the thin metal and snap..i wonder if someone even heated it up at some time making it brittle enough to snap.. who knows though, im sure some engineer will on here though.

Brittle. That was the term I was looking for. Oh I'm sure they will.

[sonikaccord]

Thermal stress? It is a very clean break. Not like the OP hit a curb or anything

[steelbluesleepR]

well china has been copying what looks like exactly ESP's bar

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-STEEL-...333815&vxp=mtr

Don't buy those, they're complete shit. The bolts aren't anything you'd want in your suspension, and only connect by one bolt front and back. The ESP bar has 2 bolts on the back, and a much better design for their track bars. These are just low-quality heim joints.

[cp[mike]]

that doesnt look like a stock header... maybe the subframe was modified in the past to fit it, and finally gave way?

[illinois_erik]

Thermal stress? It is a very clean break. Not like the OP hit a curb or anything

being that old and crusty and sitting next to the header..good guess..it almost looks like it with the discoloration in that area