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    G23/g22 vtec swaps

    Alright so to help ease Deev's frustrations with the newbs I told him I'd go ahead and make a g23/g22 vtec(f23, f22, h23 bottom end w/ h22 head) thread for them. So here goes.

    This thread can be applied to all these blocks:f22, f23, f23. My swaps have been done with f23s but there are minimal differences between them all.

    Parts Needed:
    1.h22 complete cylinder head( intake manifold, tb, injectors, fuel rail, dizzy,
    cams, valvetrain, all sensors, you get the picture)
    2. F23, F22, H23 complete block
    3. H22 timing belt
    4. H22 cylinder head gasket
    5. H22 spark plug wires
    6. H22 water crossover pipe and o-ring(thermostat housing side)
    7. H22 thermostat housing, thermostat, coolant temp sensor and water neck
    8. Water crossover pipe for whichever block your using
    9. Water pump for whatever block your using
    10. H22 crossover pipe o-ing(t-stat housing side)
    11. Crossover pipe o-ring(water pump side) these may be the same^
    12. H22 water pump(used if possible) to save some $$
    13. H22 timing gears(crankshaft timing gear)
    14. Balance shaft belt and timing gear for the block your using
    15. Manual tensioner(timing belt) for the block your using. If its auto CONVERT IT
    16. H22 exhaust manifold( i just bought after market headers and y-pipe, so no problems with bolting up)
    17. H22 exhaust manifold gasket, and y-pipe gasket^^if you buy new headers and they don't come with it
    18. H22 Intake manifold gasket set (if you want or if you remove any part of the intake manifold)
    19. H22 camshaft seals

    Tools needed:
    1. Metric sockets: Sizes you should always have for honda, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, and 36mm<< for our axle nuts. For 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch ratchets. I'm lucky and have access to a air for my impact gun and have a electric impact gun. If you don't have any of these try to have a large 1/2 ratchet and/or a breaker bar.
    2. Feeler gauges, you will need .006 for the intake and .007 for the exhaust( these are for the valve lash adjustment)
    3. A cutoff wheel
    4. A welder or machine shop
    5. Measuring tape
    6. a press and tools to press with, or a gear puller
    7. Torque wrench
    8. Haynes or Chilton manual for a prelude 92-01 doesn't matter and for the car your block came from if possible.
    9. Polishing wheel(I use air powered, may be able to get a bit for a electric drill or even a dremel)
    Head prep
    Ok so lets get started, the first things you can get started with is your plan of attack for the 2 oil returns that have to be blocked off. Its the two on the ends of the head(driver side) front and back. This needs to be done because the h22 head is wider than the f/h23 block. You can take the head to a machine shop and have them install thread and plugs in each return I mentioned. Or if your planning on making this permanant, or a continuing with setups like this, you can have the two ports welded closed like I did. This is safer, get someone you trust to do this though, the head is aluminum and easy to damage or warp, and this is OIL we're talking about, pretty much the most important part of your motor.

    NOTE: Of course if you buy a f23,h23,f22 long block your going to have to remove the cylinder head from that motor, so might as well get it out of the way. I can post up a fast way to do this if people request it. ( I can remove a cyl head in no more than 45 min in a car). But there will still be some things bypassed that will need to be removed regaurdless.....

    Block Prep
    1. Depends on the motor, but some do have a small diaphram in the oil port above the knock sensor mounting positon. (right in the center of the block. With the head off, you look at the deck you will see the hole i'm talking about). This need to be removed, this is where the cyl head recieves oil pressure for vtec to engage. You can remove it with a strong magnet sometimes, or thread a tap or screw into it and remove it.
    2. The water crossover pipe that is for the block your using needs to be cut in half. The side you need is the side that goes into the back of your water pump. You will need to cut the h22 crossover pipe in half as well, of course you need the oppoosite side of this(side for the t-stat housing). Now if you wanto do this the right/legit way, measure out the length you need the pipe to be and cut accordingly, then have the pipe WELDED together. Some people connect the 2 pipes with a rubber hose and 2 clamps, this is up to you.
    3. Onto the water pump situation. Wondering what your using that press for? Well your going to have to press the gear off the new water pump for the block your using, as well as press the gear off the h22 water pump. Now take the h22 water pump gear and press it onto the other water pump housing. Careful not to damage the housing, its aluminum so its not that strong. The gear comes off fairly easy, and make sure the pump still spins freely and easily when your done, If it doesn't your probably gonna need another pump sorry be more cautious next time
    4. Remove the crankshaft pulley. The bolt is usually a 19mm. If this hasn't been removed before it will be very tight. There is a special tool you can get from honda to hold the pulley to keep from spinning the motor over while trying to break the bolt loose. You can try to remove the bolt with a impact gun. Sometimes it will work sometimes not. If this doesn't work your going to have to figure out a way to keep the motor from spinning over. You can to lock the flywheel up with something, but be cafreful not damge to teeth. And try to break the bolt loose with a 19mm socket and a breaker bar. This wil make you curse alittle so remove any young children or people you don't want to upset. After this is removed, remove the lower timing cover. (all of them are 10mm bolts). Next remove the timing belt and water pump if its still in place.
    5. The lower timing gear(crankshaft) needs to be swapped to a H22 gear, You can use the key-way for the block your using though. Very easy just remove the key way and slide the old one off, slide the new one on in its place and reinstall the key-way.
    6. Now if your motor does now come with the motor mount bracket, you can use the h series bracket. It will work but one bolt hole will not line up.


    Cylinder head install/prep:
    NOTE: If you haven't messed with a h22/h23 head before, know this you cannot install the cams before you install the head on the block, The head bolts sit under the camshafts, not to the sides like a sohc does.
    1. Your going to want to clean off the deck of the block(mating/gasket surface between the block and cyl head) I have a small angled polishing wheel I use. I've gotten away with sand paper when I was absolutely desperate, but you should be able to get that tool from almost anywhere. Along with the discs for the bit. Make sure to put paper towels or clothes in each cylinder, BEFORE doing this to keep debri out. After your done you should see a nice clean and fairly shiny surface. Wipe off the deck with a clean rag and remove the rags or paper towels from the cylinders.
    2. Before install, make sure the h22 head has the dowel pins in place(small round cylinders, that fit into the head, they help line up the head gasket) You'll know the holes because they are stepped so the pin bottoms out. If it doesn't have any remove them from the f series head, but be careful not to bend them.<<You can grab them gently with pliers and rotate it as your pulling it outward.
    3. After that make sure the cylinder head surface is clean, and get ready to install the head gasket. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! The headgasket, CAN be flipped around backwards and still allow the head to be bolted on, as well as everything else. So what I do is sit the cylinder head in front of you like it would be sitting in the car installed. Flip it up so its resting on the intake manifold studs. On what would be the left side or driver's side, there is a point towards the back corner. Now pick up the gasket and match it up to that point. You will see what i'm talking about because the gasket only has the point on the one side that is the same shape and size as the head.
    4. If you removed the intake manifold, or just want to replace the gasket. You can install the new intake manifold gasket now after you clean off the mating surface. Then re-install the intake manifold.(this is simple, really don't think I need to explain)
    5. Now place the head gasket on the block in the same direction and position I just told you.(so when the head is bolted down that point matches up with the point on the gasket.) Alright so we're are ready to setup the base timing. The bottom end is very simple. #1 cylinder should be a TDC(top dead center, all the way at the top of the cylinder, just before it starts going back down). And the key-way on the crank should be a 12 o'clock. If you didn't know cylinder #1 is the cylinder closest to the pulleys.
    6. Now you can place the head on the block, try to line the gasket up as straight as possible with all the ports. Or what you can do is leave the gasket placed on the head(slipped over the dowel pins) and then install the head on the block. This is alittle easier for beginners but it can be done either way I mentioned above.
    Last edited by HaulAss247; 02-18-2009, 11:07 PM.
    Previous cb7members ride thread
    86 Nissan d21 in the workshttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=155292

    TSM Garage: Honda/Acura, VW/Audi, and Subaru performance and maintenance work.
    Contact:Ben Cell: (302) 898-1840

    #2
    Nice thread..ha..its funny having someone else do a tutorial besides myself...good job sir..

    Thanks for taking the time out.


    Praise The Lowered...

    Comment


      #3
      nice write up. First person to do this should take pics to add here.

      Comment


        #4
        i thought that the power output with h22 head on f series block isnt at all great , especial for all the time input

        -1992 CB7 EX w/H22 [sold 10/09]
        -2005 Legacy GT limited [current]

        Comment


          #5
          its actually outperformed a modded k24. theres a thread about it on either honda-tech or b20vtec i'll have to find it. And it seems like alot but its really just small things. Like i said if you have access to these things you could be done in a week at the latest, depends on your experience and speed.

          And i will have some other step by step pics i have from my girl's car above^^
          Previous cb7members ride thread
          86 Nissan d21 in the workshttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=155292

          TSM Garage: Honda/Acura, VW/Audi, and Subaru performance and maintenance work.
          Contact:Ben Cell: (302) 898-1840

          Comment


            #6
            its water pump for the block, but with h22 head you use the gear for the water pump from an h22.

            Hola, tengo tres patas. Me llamo tripod.

            Originally posted by d112crzy
            So you're throwing a bitch fit because some other girl at school has the same nail polish and skirt as you do?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by bagoon316 View Post
              its water pump for the block, but with h22 head you use the gear for the water pump from an h22.
              Correct. The h22 timing belt, cam gears, timing gear, water pump gear have more teeth then the f22, f23, h22 have on theirs
              Previous cb7members ride thread
              86 Nissan d21 in the workshttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=155292

              TSM Garage: Honda/Acura, VW/Audi, and Subaru performance and maintenance work.
              Contact:Ben Cell: (302) 898-1840

              Comment


                #8
                Nice writeup. If I don't get a H, I'm making you do this.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by True-BlueCB7 View Post
                  Nice writeup. If I don't get a H, I'm making you do this.
                  haha, whatever man doesn't matter to me, I'm looking to get into a house soon so I can use all the extra cash i can get and i'm trying to get more cars out there with my name on them. You already saw tom's car
                  Previous cb7members ride thread
                  86 Nissan d21 in the workshttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=155292

                  TSM Garage: Honda/Acura, VW/Audi, and Subaru performance and maintenance work.
                  Contact:Ben Cell: (302) 898-1840

                  Comment


                    #10
                    ^^^Continued, Mods we're gonna have to organize this once i'm all done
                    7. If you haven't already installed the g23 water pump or the timing gear, nows the time to do this. Next install the cylinder head bolts. I run them down, just to the point where the touch, with my electric 3/8 impact gun. You can also just do this by hand. DON'T make these tight at all yet. And you want to do this in sequence:
                    I believe theres 10 bolts can't remember(i'll edit later) still the same.
                    9 3 1 6 8

                    7 5 2 4 10.

                    Torque is first: ft. lbs
                    Then ft. lbs for your second pass
                    8. Now install the camshafts, you don't want them to be sitting up when install the cam bearings, so rotate them until they do sit pretty flush. Now what I do is take a cap of oil per cam and pour along it, just so its not dry when you go to fire up the motor. Now for the cam caps, these are numbered, so its easy, highest number starting at the distributor side, and lowest being on the belt/pulley side. You should be able to wiggle these down with your hands. DON'T bang these down with a hammer!! Place the cam bearing plates(2 long flat plates that sit over top the cam bearings) in place over the cam bearings. Install the bolts and tighten in sequence from center out, same way I had you tighten the head bolts. Make sure you go back over these bolts atleast two times. (its very easy to miss one or have one end up loose, as your tightening down the cam bearings).

                    Should look like this now

                    WOOO ALMOST THERE

                    9. Now set the head up at top dead center. The cam gears have arrows on them that say "UP", obviously this should point up and the 90 degrees either way from that arrow on the edge of the cam gear there is a groove. These should line up straight with surface of the head. This should be done to both cams, they both have the exact same markings.
                    10. Install the timing belt, and recheck your marks to make sure your in time. And turn the motor over by hand a few times to make sure the you stay in time. Install your balance shaft pulley and belt. Your going to want to set these in time with the motor as well.(motor needs to be on TDC) when you do this, there is a plug in the back of the block, so you insert a pin or small screw driver to lock up the back balance shaft. The front one has a mark, you line up for it.(mark is actually on the back of the pulley and should be at 12 o'clock to be in time.)
                    11. Set the motor up on TDC again, and prepare for the valve lash adjustment. DO NOT bypass this or put it off til after start up, not doing this can actually allow the motor to bend a valve even at idle, I've seen it done. .007 is for the exhaust and .006 is for the intake valves. Your setup for cylinder #1. I believe the rotation is 1,3,4,2. Look at the book though thats what its for duh. It will show you the points to stop for each cylinder.(every 90 degrees, arrow should be: < is #3, straight down for #4, and > for #2. ) And your turning the motor to the left when rotating it.

                    Working, this should get you started, I will be back updating with more of the to-do list and pics

                    NOT FINISHED!!! Will be adding to it, and some pics, have to get ahold of a camera.

                    oOo p.s the car should look like this when done.

                    Last edited by HaulAss247; 02-18-2009, 11:15 PM.
                    Previous cb7members ride thread
                    86 Nissan d21 in the workshttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=155292

                    TSM Garage: Honda/Acura, VW/Audi, and Subaru performance and maintenance work.
                    Contact:Ben Cell: (302) 898-1840

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by HaulAss247 View Post
                      haha, whatever man doesn't matter to me, I'm looking to get into a house soon so I can use all the extra cash i can get and i'm trying to get more cars out there with my name on them. You already saw tom's car
                      I remembered that car.
                      Remember, I need my fundzzzzzzz.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        sorry didn't get to finish the diy up tonight, starting to get sick and I was hella tired.

                        ^^yea man thanks for reminding me, i forgot all about that, the panels have just been sitting in my girls car so I haven't even looked at them to remind myself.
                        Previous cb7members ride thread
                        86 Nissan d21 in the workshttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=155292

                        TSM Garage: Honda/Acura, VW/Audi, and Subaru performance and maintenance work.
                        Contact:Ben Cell: (302) 898-1840

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by HaulAss247 View Post
                          ^^yea man thanks for reminding me, i forgot all about that, the panels have just been sitting in my girls car so I haven't even looked at them to remind myself.
                          No prob. Should I go back to texting you like an over-posessed girl?
                          And btw, how long (on average) would it take building this motor?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            if you get all the parts together, and depending on how anal you are a week give or take a few days
                            Previous cb7members ride thread
                            86 Nissan d21 in the workshttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=155292

                            TSM Garage: Honda/Acura, VW/Audi, and Subaru performance and maintenance work.
                            Contact:Ben Cell: (302) 898-1840

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I'm extremely anal..
                              No homo.

                              Comment

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