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    #16
    QUICK NOTE!!!

    Just a heads up. If you happen to buy the disc conversion and it doesn't come with the upper balljoints, be ready with a joint seperator and a sledgehammer. I'll post pics up as soon as I upload them. And thanks again to Timmy for all the help!
    O'skool fo sho! You might hate, but I been doin' this long before you know.

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      #17
      Just to make your search easier... The rear knuckles from the vigors will work for this conversion too. You can also CONVERT your existing knuckles by swapping the hubs, bearings, backing plates, rotors, and calipers seperately.
      Visit us at http://www.valleyspecialists.com for all of your Honda and Acura service needs!

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        #18
        rear disk swap

        whats up yall,just found me a set of 96` rear disks and all but a buddy of mine said something about the master cylinder?have no idea why. but i guess its something to do with getting fluid to the rear. HOLLA AT YA BOY

        Hustle Hard! This is a design of some gear I've been workin on.

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          #19
          DIY rear disks

          whats up guys,found me a set of rear disks off a 96'.Do you have to do anything to the master cylinder?How does brake fluid get to the rear?want to know befoer i swap .THANKS

          Hustle Hard! This is a design of some gear I've been workin on.

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            #20
            Timmytool: So you retained the stock smaller brake master cylinder, brake booster and proportioning valve...but are happy with the results. I am curious if you were to purchase these items, if you'd notice a difference in braking. Did you replace the rotors? Where these calipers in good working order, or did you get remanufactured units?

            Just FYI for those doing this conversion:

            The rear discs come on CB7's with F22a6 engines + the 93 LX 10th anniversary edition. These setups have a different brake master cylinder, brake booster and have a proportioning valve. Some install these components in doing the conversion, but I guess you can get away with working brakes without them. Using this brake master cylinder however, since it has a larger bore with this larger brake booster will decrease the amount of work needed to brake, compared to not using them. Now it'd be interesting to actually compare the two setups and see if you noticed a significant difference.

            I personally plan on doing the BMC, booster, prop. valve change.
            HondaFan81 For Sale Parts (LOW PRICES ON EVERYTHING)

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              #21
              hectic702: you can replace the master cylinder but it's not necessary (read below why). the fluid gets to the rear via brake lines just like it would on the drums. the drums are mainly hydrolic. the cable is just for the e-brake.

              HondaFan81: i bought the whole set at a local junkyard. yes i retained the stock smaller brake master cylinder, brake booster and proportioning valve and i am happy with the results. any car would benefit from any upgraded parts but my stock setup all worked fine for me. the proportioning valve could make the most difference due to a better braking bias between the front and rear wheels. typically people use the prop valves off the DA integra RS (non-ABS) which are stamped 40/40. they are bolt on, but i find the current accord one to be fine. the EX/SE booster is the same i believe. the EX/SE master cyl is only larger by a few mm. it's not worth the effort unless your current set is already failing (we do have 12+ year old cars).

              i have great braking feel up to now (it's been a year and 2 months now). it is more positive and responsive compared to the drums. what more when you upgrade to stainless steel lines; i don't have them though. going 65mph, i can lock up my 17's with 215/45 tires on the freeway.

              i got lucky with my parts. it was all in good condition and complete down to every brake line i needed. as for the calipers, they were in decent condition so i didn't touch them. my rotors were pretty decent as well so there was no need to resurface them. when you get a set, i recommend that you change the pads, resurface the rotors, and overhaul the calipers just in case. you never know what car or condition they came out of. i chose not to do any due to the satisfactory condition my set was in. i'm still using the pads that they originally came with from the junkyard!
              1cor10:31
              - 92 LX coupe
              - 96 EX wagon (sold)

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                #22
                my buddy is going to be giving me his discs off of his 92 accord(what a dumbass) and i am going to be giving him my drums. my question is when swapping them will it unbolt and bolt up with no problems or is there different lines i need to use. he will be getting my whole drum setup and i am getting the entire disc setup. my lines are going to his car and his lines are coming to mine. please let me know ASAP becuase i am going to be doing it shortly
                www.rms-usa.com

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                  #23
                  dang that's a really good deal and yes your friend is a dumbass for doing this. anyway yes it will unbolt and bolt up with no problems at all. you just have to make sure you remove the correct parts. don't forget that you will need the emergency brake cables on top of the regular brake lines. just remove the whole suspension assembly.

                  from the donor car, remove the:
                  -upper arms from the chassis
                  -WHOLE lower crossmember (so you can use the rear sway bar too!)
                  -trailing arm from the chassis (near the jackpoints along the sideskirts)
                  -regular brake lines
                  -emergency brake lines

                  of course there are obvious things you have to remove in order to remove the parts i just listed (like the exhaust heatshield in order to remove the emergency brake cables).

                  just remember that you CANNOT transfer over the ABS sensors and lines so just leave those in the donor car. cutting them might trigger the ABS light in the instrument cluster of the donor car. good luck man!
                  1cor10:31
                  - 92 LX coupe
                  - 96 EX wagon (sold)

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by timmy0tool
                    dang that's a really good deal and yes your friend is a dumbass for doing this. anyway yes it will unbolt and bolt up with no problems at all. you just have to make sure you remove the correct parts. don't forget that you will need the emergency brake cables on top of the regular brake lines. just remove the whole suspension assembly.

                    from the donor car, remove the:
                    -upper arms from the chassis
                    -WHOLE lower crossmember (so you can use the rear sway bar too!)
                    -trailing arm from the chassis (near the jackpoints along the sideskirts)
                    -regular brake lines
                    -emergency brake lines

                    of course there are obvious things you have to remove in order to remove the parts i just listed (like the exhaust heatshield in order to remove the emergency brake cables).

                    just remember that you CANNOT transfer over the ABS sensors and lines so just leave those in the donor car. cutting them might trigger the ABS light in the instrument cluster of the donor car. good luck man!

                    why can't you change the abs sensors?
                    Boosted H22...Underway....Getting parts, and gaining knowledge....first thing to do is diy body work, and paint....H22 Swap should be doen by the end of this month if all goes right...

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                      #25
                      did mine last week!!!!

                      sick!!!!!
                      welcome to the DOHC-side..muuuahahahahahah




                      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=1906

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                        #26
                        I swapped mine over, and i also upgrade my front brakes to the Ludevtec 11.1in rotors and calipers. I need a new Master cylinder!

                        on to another important question. i took all mine of the doner car along time ago, so i cant remember where the mounting points are for the sway bar, any help?

                        *edit*

                        Nevermind i know why i cant do it, i dont have the stabilizer brackets that the bushing a C clamp thingy attach to the chassy. ***!
                        Last edited by phatdoughnut; 06-07-2005, 11:31 AM.
                        H22 Prelude VTEC 92-96 200 161 10.6:1 87 90 DOHC VTEC 2157 JDM

                        190.3whp 155 wtq - with bolt ons, and a dc header

                        ET=14.457 @ 94mph w/ 2.173 60Fter

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                          #27
                          are rear disks rotor over hub?

                          fourthgenhatch.net

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by gutterslide
                            are rear disks rotor over hub?
                            yes they are. i don't believe a hub-over-rotor exists out there.
                            1cor10:31
                            - 92 LX coupe
                            - 96 EX wagon (sold)

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                              #29
                              so when doing this conversion the origonal sway bar wont work... so youd have to use the rotor systems sway bar?
                              . . .93 Ex F2.0A Si. . .
                              WiredMotorSports
                              [[-]] (()) [[\]] [[)) //\\

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                                #30
                                Dayum good write up. That is gonna be my next upgrade
                                my ride

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