Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Dying at wot

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Dying at wot

    Hello guys so I'm on my lunch break and now's a good time to fill you guys in on what's going on. I fixed the map sensor cel issue. The b and c terminals were swapped at the map plug. Swapped them and car started and runs with no cel. Now after resetting the ecu via battery terminal, will the chipped p05 ecu lose its base h22 tune??? When car gets a cold start, idle jumps to about 15-1700rpm then walks it's way down to 1000-1200. Once warm and idle is at its lowest, I take it for a drive. Runs and feels like normalish, but when I open it up to wot, it suddenly loses power so I immediately get out of it and get back down to cruising speeds. Any input fellas? Thank You!!!!!!

    #2
    Weird, this is an identical post to another which was fixed today. His was vtec wire was broken and WOT wouldn't flood the car as it was getting too much fuel.

    But your tune will not disappear because you disconnected the battery.

    No engine codes?
    And "suddenly loses power".... can you describe this more?

    What if you keep in it?
    What if you slowly go to WOT?
    Happens in all gears?
    Happens when not moving?

    Comment


      #3
      Are you are running on a basemap?
      How is your ignition timing?
      Does it happen in a specific RPM range?

      YouTube Clicky!!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
        Weird, this is an identical post to another which was fixed today. His was vtec wire was broken and WOT wouldn't flood the car as it was getting too much fuel.

        But your tune will not disappear because you disconnected the battery.

        No engine codes?
        And "suddenly loses power".... can you describe this more?

        What if you keep in it?
        What if you slowly go to WOT?
        Happens in all gears?
        Happens when not moving?
        •No engine codes
        •When I say "looses power" I mean the motor feels flat.. I'm going to try to get a vid on this
        •If I stay on the throttle at wot, the bogging/flat feeling of the motor gets worse and at times I hear a small backfire.
        • if I walk into wot it don't feel as bad. Feeling goes from that boggish/flat to a hesitation, slight hesitation.
        • happens in most of gears. Haven't went wot in 5th..
        • idles steady at 11-1200rpm no surges or anything funky.
        Thanks raf99!!!!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by sonikaccord View Post
          Are you are running on a basemap?
          How is your ignition timing?
          Does it happen in a specific RPM range?
          Yes it's a basemap. Not sure on ignition timing. I'd have to get a light. Unless there's another way to check? It happens generally after 4-5k when going wot. Thank you for your input sonik!!!!

          Comment


            #6
            1) have it tuned properly before you do damage. Basemaps are only intended to get the engine running in order to be tuned. Driving on one is foolish. Especially if you're going WOT. This is even more important given that your engine is a frankenstein. There is no proper "basemap" for your specific configuration (and I wouldn't trust any that claimed to be.)

            2) if you're losing power around 5k, that's about where the VTEC crossover would be. As Raf99 said, this sounds similar to the guy that posted recently regarding his damaged VTEC wiring. The ECU is dumping fuel in expectation of a more extreme camshaft profile. When it never happens, the engine is overfueled and loses power.

            3) Another possibility is a failing o2 sensor. Assuming your basemap uses o2 sensor feedback (it's wise to utilize such feedback.) If the o2 sensor is failing, your ECU can end up sending more fuel than necessary. It doesn't always throw a code. When mine started acting up, I'd lose power randomly, usually when trying to accelerate rapidly (like when I was merging onto a high speed road). Eventually, code 43 started popping up after I was driving for a while (either when it got to operating temp, or when I reached highway speeds.) It ended up being a bad o2 sensor.

            4) Get a timing light. They're like $20. Doesn't have to be fancy. Hit up Harbor Freight with a 20% off coupon.

            5) Your idle is actually a bit high. I know your engine is a frankenstein, but pretty much all F and H engines should idle between 700 and 800. A 1200 idle suggests a potential issue. My thought is that your IACV could use a good cleaning and adjustment. That isn't likely related to your power loss problem, but you might as well get things as right as possible.






            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by deevergote View Post
              1) have it tuned properly before you do damage. Basemaps are only intended to get the engine running in order to be tuned. Driving on one is foolish. Especially if you're going WOT. This is even more important given that your engine is a frankenstein. There is no proper "basemap" for your specific configuration (and I wouldn't trust any that claimed to be.)

              2) if you're losing power around 5k, that's about where the VTEC crossover would be. As Raf99 said, this sounds similar to the guy that posted recently regarding his damaged VTEC wiring. The ECU is dumping fuel in expectation of a more extreme camshaft profile. When it never happens, the engine is overfueled and loses power.

              3) Another possibility is a failing o2 sensor. Assuming your basemap uses o2 sensor feedback (it's wise to utilize such feedback.) If the o2 sensor is failing, your ECU can end up sending more fuel than necessary. It doesn't always throw a code. When mine started acting up, I'd lose power randomly, usually when trying to accelerate rapidly (like when I was merging onto a high speed road). Eventually, code 43 started popping up after I was driving for a while (either when it got to operating temp, or when I reached highway speeds.) It ended up being a bad o2 sensor.

              4) Get a timing light. They're like $20. Doesn't have to be fancy. Hit up Harbor Freight with a 20% off coupon.

              5) Your idle is actually a bit high. I know your engine is a frankenstein, but pretty much all F and H engines should idle between 700 and 800. A 1200 idle suggests a potential issue. My thought is that your IACV could use a good cleaning and adjustment. That isn't likely related to your power loss problem, but you might as well get things as right as possible.
              Damn dude!! This is the type of info I need to hear!!! I will look into these mentioned tips. Thank You Guys Very Much!!!!!

              Comment


                #8
                This sounds like a stupid solution, but you could test your TPS!
                I'm faster then a prius

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by GTRON View Post
                  This sounds like a stupid solution, but you could test your TPS!
                  Test for continuity?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Unplugged o2 sensor

                    Hello guys so I've unplugged my o2 and I don't get a CEL. Does this mean that it's deleted on the chip of ecu? Car runs a little more funnier than before. Same issues though.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Does your CEL work? If the bulb is burned out, you could have a bunch of problems that you don't know about.

                      If the light works, then yes, the o2 sensor has likely been disabled. Again, get your ECU tuned properly, with the sensor enabled. If you've been going WOT on a basemap for the last few months, the issues you're experiencing could be due to internal damage.






                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                        Does your CEL work? If the bulb is burned out, you could have a bunch of problems that you don't know about.

                        If the light works, then yes, the o2 sensor has likely been disabled. Again, get your ECU tuned properly, with the sensor enabled. If you've been going WOT on a basemap for the last few months, the issues you're experiencing could be due to internal damage.
                        How would I test my CEL? It worked with map sensor unplugged. What sort of engine damage should I expect? I've been driving with it like this for about a week. And before that I was on limp mode with the map sensor unplugged. Would I need a Hondata or other tunable ecu to get it tuned or it can be done off a chipped ecu?? Than You Deev!!!!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          If it lights up at all, it works. It should come on briefly when you turn on the car.

                          You can have your chipped ECU tuned. You just need to find someone that can do it for you. The ECU will have to be tuned in-person, while the car is either being driven, or better yet, on a dyno. You won't be able to simply order a chip with the correct tune (that's what you have now... well, aside from the correct tune.) Since California is such an import tuning hub, I don't expect you'll find it too difficult to locate a competent tuner.

                          Depending on what's going on, you could have bent valves, gummed-up valves, damaged pistons... any number of things that result from incorrect fueling. Too much fuel isn't as bad as too little fuel, but it can still cause damage. Since your ECU is essentially flying blind, programmed for an engine that is different than the one it is actually running, who knows what could have happened. Especially at WOT. You NEVER want to push your engine when something isn't right. Keep it under 3000 RPM if you need to drive it, and drive it as little as possible until you get things working properly.






                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                            If it lights up at all, it works. It should come on briefly when you turn on the car.

                            You can have your chipped ECU tuned. You just need to find someone that can do it for you. The ECU will have to be tuned in-person, while the car is either being driven, or better yet, on a dyno. You won't be able to simply order a chip with the correct tune (that's what you have now... well, aside from the correct tune.) Since California is such an import tuning hub, I don't expect you'll find it too difficult to locate a competent tuner.

                            Depending on what's going on, you could have bent valves, gummed-up valves, damaged pistons... any number of things that result from incorrect fueling. Too much fuel isn't as bad as too little fuel, but it can still cause damage. Since your ECU is essentially flying blind, programmed for an engine that is different than the one it is actually running, who knows what could have happened. Especially at WOT. You NEVER want to push your engine when something isn't right. Keep it under 3000 RPM if you need to drive it, and drive it as little as possible until you get things working properly.
                            Cel goes on briefly upon startup. I got it chipped at Ericks racing. D ont know how knowledgeable they are but will try them out next weekend on dayday

                            Comment


                              #15
                              So this is what I got so far

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X