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    #16
    Interesting!
    I would've expected the condenser fan to kick on as well. No matter. Let's move on to the next step.

    We have verified that the relay, fuses and wiring are ok with the passing of the previous tests. That was more of a peace of mind thing.

    Now you should check 2 more things. When the key is in position II, there should be 12 volts on the YEL/WHT and YEL wires...I think, not 100% sure how the fan timers internals work. This is with everything connected normally.

    If you have 12 volts there, the only thing left is to test your fan switch. Boil it and check the resistance between the two pins. It should read less than 2 ohms.

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      #17
      Alright, a few more things.

      I've tested the YEL and YEL/WHT wire on the fan timer switch with everything hooked up as it normally should be, they both show 12V with the ignition on in the II position.

      Also to bypass pulling out the fan switch on the thermostat housing, I again jumped the plug and tested the ignition. No fans, decided for the hell of it to put a new plug on the harness. Found some good wires depinned everything and got the good wires into a new plug and cut the old plug off and hooked the new plug up. Still no fans turning on when the ignition is at the II position. I'm going to start the car up and let it get to temp, then I can test for continuity. Still though I should be able to kick the fans on with the thermostat plug jumped. I'm wondering if at this point somewhere in the engine harness has gone bad. I've double checked all the connections from the engine harness to the body harness, everything looks good.

      Anything else I can test at this point?
      MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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        #18
        Check the continuity of the wires from plug to plug.
        90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
        08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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          #19
          ^^^That's the last thing to check.
          The 12 volts coming out of the fan timer circuit should be all you need to energize the relay coil when it's grounded, as evident when you grounded the blu wire and the fan turned on.

          At the thermostat housing switch plug, you should see the 12v from the fan timer on the BLU wire and continuity to ground on the BLK wire. If you don't see either one, then there is a break in the wire somewhere.

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            #20
            Alright so long story short, it's fixed, and the cooling fans and headlights were related, go figure...

            I tested for continuity to ground on the fan switch plug that turned out fine. Then tested for 12v on the blue wire, nothing. Tested continuity on the engine harness turned out good. Tested for 12v on the blue wire in the body harness, nothing. Alright so I'm not actually getting power out of the fuse box into the body harness.

            Well it turns out when I removed the foglight harness from this car over a year ago, I forgot to undo a bit of the tucking I did to plug. This is the plug that normally plugs into the fusebox, but integrates with the foglight harness when you have it. I had to extend 1 headlight wire, and I was able to plug this back in, go figure now I have cooling fans and headlights again.

            Now I can continue on with the rest of the punch list to finish this damn car off.
            Last edited by Rilas; 04-24-2018, 04:23 PM.
            MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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              #21
              Nice!

              It's usually the simple things that throw us off course.

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