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Have $4k budget. 93 lx 4dr auto right now, swap for sure but which one????

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    Have $4k budget. 93 lx 4dr auto right now, swap for sure but which one????

    Guys/Gals, I need your advice and or help. I am looking for help building ( this is NOT my daily driver right now, but will be) a fun fast daily driver with AC. I have $4k to spend and need to be driving my new setup within 30 days or less hopefully. Whose down??

    I’m looking for,
    I would go h22a with manual LSD T2TW etc..

    I’m in Milton/Pensacola and NEED HELP SWAPPING MOTORS AND GETTING A NEW ONE TUNED ETC. I am willing to pay for help getting this done.
    Last edited by smac; 08-16-2018, 02:59 PM. Reason: Made a few updates to make clear the fact that this is not my DD car and I have sometime to "build" it.

    #2
    This is the place to start:

    https://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/h...anny-computer/
    ~Nick~
    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
    MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

    Comment


      #3
      $4,000 is a fairly safe budget, but if you're not careful it will go very quickly. A reliable H22A from a reputable importer will run you about $1,200 with another $1,000 for the transmission. I would also budget $300-400 on seals, timing belts, gaskets, spark plugs, and fluids.

      The easiest option for the header is to buy a generic one made for a '93-'96 Prelude Si VTEC. They're around $100. That way it will bolt up to your existing exhaust, as well as the H22A head. This will only have provisions for the O2 sensor beyond the header merge, whereas your current F22A1 has it up near the head on one of the runners. This will be one area where you will need to deloom the O2 sensor wiring and reroute it to the new location. More on wiring next.

      The wiring can be tricky, but there are sellers on eBay who have simplified it as they basically make subharnesses for everything you would be adding with the H22A. I say "subharness" because you will use the entire engine harness from your current F22A1 and just add the necessary wires to that.
      The new components your car doesn't have but the H22A will are VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure (unless it's a JDM engine), knock sensor and the IABs to control the secondary runners. For about $40 you can find a subharness that will plug into each one of those items on the H22A and route back to the ECU with the necessary pins to plug them straight into the back of the ECU connector. The necessary grounds are included as well and it is straight plug-and-play. The distributor will be your only other potential hang-up. Your car is an internal coil distributor, and an OBD1 JDM H22A will be the same. While the distributors will use different mounting patterns, electrically they are the same. So that one should plug right in to your Accord engine harness. If not, the correct distributor can be purchased new for around $150.

      If you've followed my pricing model so far, you're up to about $2,800 if you have to buy the distributor. You'll still need an ECU. Your budget allows for the basic P13 H22A ECU for around $100, or to go all out and but an ECU retrofit with Hondata S300 v3 w/bluetooth. That will cost around $650, but your tuner will thank you. Tack on another $300 for a tune if you go that route. Not needed if you opt to stick with the factory P13.

      I'm needed elsewhere in the house, so I'll update this later.
      My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

      Comment


        #4
        This has disaster written all over it.....

        Engine/transmission alone is gonna be like $2K....
        I doubt you will find someone who will help you swap the engine for free...
        You will have to do all kinds of maintenance. Timing belt, water pump, probably the distributor, clutch/flywheel etc.
        You will need an exhaust to replace the pea shooter...
        I'd highly recommend upgrading the brakes at the minimum, but also tires & suspension
        You will need auto to manual mounts and the clutch pedal assembly...

        Etc....

        And this is all if nothing goes wrong. 30 days is not a lot of time to source parts and get a swap done if you have a job and other responsibilities.

        You would be way better off keeping your Accord and just getting a Prelude with the H22 + 5 speed already in it, if you can have 2 cars. In my experience when time is of the essence let the OEM do all the work for you.


        Originally posted by lordoja
        im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Jarrett View Post
          $4,000 is a fairly safe budget, but if you're not careful it will go very quickly. A reliable H22A from a reputable importer will run you about $1,200 with another $1,000 for the transmission. I would also budget $300-400 on seals, timing belts, gaskets, spark plugs, and fluids.

          The easiest option for the header is to buy a generic one made for a '93-'96 Prelude Si VTEC. They're around $100. That way it will bolt up to your existing exhaust, as well as the H22A head. This will only have provisions for the O2 sensor beyond the header merge, whereas your current F22A1 has it up near the head on one of the runners. This will be one area where you will need to deloom the O2 sensor wiring and reroute it to the new location. More on wiring next.

          The wiring can be tricky, but there are sellers on eBay who have simplified it as they basically make subharnesses for everything you would be adding with the H22A. I say "subharness" because you will use the entire engine harness from your current F22A1 and just add the necessary wires to that.
          The new components your car doesn't have but the H22A will are VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure (unless it's a JDM engine), knock sensor and the IABs to control the secondary runners. For about $40 you can find a subharness that will plug into each one of those items on the H22A and route back to the ECU with the necessary pins to plug them straight into the back of the ECU connector. The necessary grounds are included as well and it is straight plug-and-play. The distributor will be your only other potential hang-up. Your car is an internal coil distributor, and an OBD1 JDM H22A will be the same. While the distributors will use different mounting patterns, electrically they are the same. So that one should plug right in to your Accord engine harness. If not, the correct distributor can be purchased new for around $150.

          If you've followed my pricing model so far, you're up to about $2,800 if you have to buy the distributor. You'll still need an ECU. Your budget allows for the basic P13 H22A ECU for around $100, or to go all out and but an ECU retrofit with Hondata S300 v3 w/bluetooth. That will cost around $650, but your tuner will thank you. Tack on another $300 for a tune if you go that route. Not needed if you opt to stick with the factory P13.

          I'm needed elsewhere in the house, so I'll update this later.
          I REALLY appreciate all this help.

          2 more questions/suggestions

          what about f20B swap? I see some stuff but not nearly as much as with h22 but if this swap is easier or equal please let me know as I need to order my motor tranny today if at all possible.

          B.T.W I do have experience with Honda as I've boosted a civic years back and am pretty familiar with all the lingo at least.

          Originally posted by gloryaccordy View Post
          This has disaster written all over it.....

          Engine/transmission alone is gonna be like $2K....
          I doubt you will find someone who will help you swap the engine for free...
          You will have to do all kinds of maintenance. Timing belt, water pump, probably the distributor, clutch/flywheel etc.
          You will need an exhaust to replace the pea shooter...
          I'd highly recommend upgrading the brakes at the minimum, but also tires & suspension
          You will need auto to manual mounts and the clutch pedal assembly...

          Etc....

          And this is all if nothing goes wrong. 30 days is not a lot of time to source parts and get a swap done if you have a job and other responsibilities.

          You would be way better off keeping your Accord and just getting a Prelude with the H22 + 5 speed already in it, if you can have 2 cars. In my experience when time is of the essence let the OEM do all the work for you.

          " This has disaster written all over it....."

          I take it positive encouragement and confidence are not your stronger suits....

          Another Idea I had, was to swap h22 or f20b, but just stay auto right now to save some cash and get some more experience under my belt. However, this is silly thinking, knowing I am gonna have everything completely apart anyways at that point and could figure it out I am sure anyhow...
          Last edited by Jarrett; 08-16-2018, 04:58 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by smac
            " This has disaster written all over it....."

            I take it positive encouragement and confidence are not your stronger suits....
            You can do it!!

            Looking forward to see which route you will go. As these are things I would like for my auto coupe in the future.

            Comment


              #7
              [/QUOTE]what about f20B swap? I see some stuff but not nearly as much as with h22 but if this swap is easier or equal please let me know as I need to order my motor tranny today if at all possible.[/QUOTE]


              The F20B is basically a de-stroked H22 to compete in a Euro racing class. There are way fewer aftermarket parts out there for the F20B, power out put is about the same, the F20B just revs higher. (not to get into too much about it) The H22 would be a better choice IMO as you will have more options for customizing in the future.

              It would make more sense to go ahead and convert while you have everything apart, (if it is something you want to do 1 way or the other). You can/should be able to pull this off on your budget, provided you are careful and plan it out thoroughly.

              Under Construction​​​​​​​​

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by dabomei
                very good ,i like it
                A good web www.baidu.com
                Nice Spam post!

                OP I will be in Pensacola for training starting Sept 1st. If your looking to get it all done in 30 days then I would stick to keeping it auto. Manual conversions add a lot of time and swapping in a motor can be done over a weekend, if you devote your whole weekend to doing the swap. But that doesn’t include replacing all the parts, doing the tensioner conversion, and building the harness.

                It’s not a difficult swap. Doing any engine swap is not like throwing a turbo on the car and saying you boosted a civic once. Not to be rude but anyone can slap a turbo on a car. (Ive done it a couple times).

                I posted in my first post the best place to get all you need. Then simply go to rockauto and get all the replacement parts you need. But shipping from Cali to Florida will probably take a week or two just to get the motor in.

                I will let you know when I’m in Pensacola and if I can help out. But I have a 2 year old and I won’t be able to devote my full weekends to help.
                ~Nick~
                FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                Comment


                  #9
                  Is the CB going to be your only vehicle?

                  Why does the swap have to be done in 30 days?

                  If it is your MAIN vehicle maybe you should do as "gloryaccordy" says &
                  start with doing all the maintenance first before doing the actual swap.
                  I guarantee that the suspension will need an overhaul as well as brakes & tires.

                  At least do the Lower ball joints so you know they are reliable!
                  Keep Pushing..

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by smac
                    " This has disaster written all over it....."

                    I take it positive encouragement and confidence are not your stronger suits....

                    Another Idea I had, was to swap h22 or f20b, but just stay auto right now to save some cash and get some more experience under my belt. However, this is silly thinking, knowing I am gonna have everything completely apart anyways at that point and could figure it out I am sure anyhow...
                    I am just being realistic and practical. I don't think it's right to encourage someone to make a huge decision without giving them all the info they need, good or bad. I'm really not trying to be a dick; just thinking this through.

                    - You don't have the experience or tools to do this on your own.
                    - This is your daily driver.
                    - You are on a time crunch.
                    - You are on a budget.

                    Again, not trying to be a dick... but what would be the point of doing it this way? What are you going to do if something goes wrong, and you aren't able to get it done in that 30 days, or within that $4K budget?

                    Do you want a project? If so I'd get another CB7 and do the swap on that. That way you can take your time and not put yourself in a bad position if things go left. Do you want an H22 equipped car? If you're willing to travel a little bit or do some work you can definitely get one with a manual in your budget:

                    https://neworleans.craigslist.org/ct...6664178980.htm
                    https://hattiesburg.craigslist.org/c...671505553.html

                    As someone who has had a few project cars, some of which I had to depend on to make a living, I'm just trying to save you from a potential disaster. You can still do your project but hedge against shit going sideways


                    Originally posted by lordoja
                    im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by gloryaccordy View Post
                      I am just being realistic and practical. I don't think it's right to encourage someone to make a huge decision without giving them all the info they need, good or bad. I'm really not trying to be a dick; just thinking this through.

                      - You don't have the experience or tools to do this on your own.
                      - This is your daily driver.
                      - You are on a time crunch.
                      - You are on a budget.

                      Again, not trying to be a dick... but what would be the point of doing it this way? What are you going to do if something goes wrong, and you aren't able to get it done in that 30 days, or within that $4K budget?

                      Do you want a project? If so I'd get another CB7 and do the swap on that. That way you can take your time and not put yourself in a bad position if things go left. Do you want an H22 equipped car? If you're willing to travel a little bit or do some work you can definitely get one with a manual in your budget:

                      https://neworleans.craigslist.org/ct...6664178980.htm
                      https://hattiesburg.craigslist.org/c...671505553.html

                      As someone who has had a few project cars, some of which I had to depend on to make a living, I'm just trying to save you from a potential disaster. You can still do your project but hedge against shit going sideways

                      WHOA!!!!!! slow down....

                      I failed to mention this fact clearly but your wrongly assuming right now that this is my daily driver. I did NOT SAY THIS.

                      This cb7 is NOT my daily driver. I have another vehicle DD right now that I dont wanna afford any longer. The 30 days is to beat the next payment and have it gone so I am driving my new BUILD cb7.
                      I would like to build this next DD for the long term thinking 5 yr guarantee-10 year hoping + daily fun, faster, great looking cb7.

                      OK, I am sure this is way out there, but what about an auto LSD Euro-R swap? This would probably be a lot easier anyways...


                      B.T.W, Pics to come later,

                      I know for absolute certain that a GREAT TUNE, can make ALL the difference and so, I've just made first purchase and got full P28 ECU/HONDATA S300 package with boost option.....


                      budget roughly now $3300......
                      Last edited by Jarrett; 08-16-2018, 04:58 PM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Sorry I wasn't able to continue my previous post until now. I'll pick up where I left off, but others have filled in a few concern areas. Then I'll give you an alternative solution.

                        The mount bracket on the transmission side of the automatic cars is specific to the auto transmission. In order to use that bracket with a manual transmission, you'll need to order a custom mount though either ESP.net or Innovative Mounts. It's a hybrid that will allow it all to work together. Those are a little over $100.

                        You'll need a clutch and flywheel, as you don't have one at all right now, and will also need the requisite hardware like the flywheel bolts and clutch bolts. If you purchased an engine and transmission combo, more than likely those would be included, though. A replacement clutch, the slave cylinder, master cylinder, hydraulic line (stainless braided for simplicity's sake), pedal set, shifter and linkage will all run you another $250, or so. Source the pedals in the junkyard.

                        Just where we're at right now, you've reached your new $3,300 budget. That's assuming you go with a P13 instead of the Hondata S300 v3. Toss on another $200 to cover random tools, parts and hardware that aren't part of the usual swap, but present themselves in your situation. Cutting $700 off the budget really tightens things up.

                        An alternative to save a bit of money would be to go with an H23A VTEC and an Accord manual transmission. The H23A VTEC is usually available for around $900, and decent Accord transmissions can be had for around $400. That's a savings of roughly $900 over the previous combo, but you are giving up the H22-geared LSD transmission. This is something I would certainly plan to upgrade later on once the budget permitted. That extra $900 could be used to splurge on the Hondata S300 v3 since the P13 isn't optimally-suited for it (though it will run it), or to pay a buddy for his time in helping you with the swap. Up to you. That's my input. Your mileage may vary.
                        My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I guess im muted....
                          ~Nick~
                          FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                          MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by smac View Post
                            WHOA!!!!!! slow down....

                            I failed to mention this fact clearly but your wrongly assuming right now that this is my daily driver. I did NOT SAY THIS.

                            This cb7 is NOT my daily driver. I have another vehicle DD right now that I dont wanna afford any longer. The 30 days is to beat the next payment and have it gone so I am driving my new BUILD cb7.
                            I would like to build this next DD for the long term thinking 5 yr guarantee-10 year hoping + daily fun, faster, great looking cb7.

                            OK, I am sure this is way out there, but what about an auto LSD Euro-R swap? This would probably be a lot easier anyways...


                            B.T.W, Pics to come later,

                            I know for absolute certain that a GREAT TUNE, can make ALL the difference and so, I've just made first purchase and got full P28 ECU/HONDATA S300 package with boost option.....


                            budget roughly now $3300......
                            I'm still not quite convinced...

                            What are you driving now? CB7s are approaching 30 years old. Are you really going to drive one until it's 40?

                            I would do this as a side project. As a DD built on a time crunch.... well, good luck


                            Originally posted by lordoja
                            im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
                              I guess im muted....
                              Figuratively or literally?
                              My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                              Comment

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