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Old 05-27-2019, 07:38 PM   #2481
fleetw00d
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
Well shit. Fixed the PS leak and got the coolant system bled (using old coolant hose for upper rad), backed it out of the garage just to realize there is a gas leak

What's worse is that it's coming from on top of the gas tank ....... fack...
I was able to change that line for a friend (one of my former Accords). If I remember correctly, I had to drop the rear cross member (left the control arms connected to the knuckles) and drop the rear of the tank enough to access it. I After I dropped the cross member, I was able to at least partially wire brush and spray a lubricant on the tank strap bolts before I tried to remove them. Depending on how rusty you think they are, the brackets are still available from Honda; $11.81 from Majestic.
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Old 06-01-2019, 10:48 PM   #2482
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Well............

As I suspected the pump seal is leaking. But why it's leaking is the question here. I've seen this before and it was when I didn't tighten the clamp on the fuel pump hose enough. This resulted in the fuel squirting towards the top of the unit and the tank/pump seal cannot contain it. And it leaks around the old OEM seal.

Any thoughts from you folks on what the problem may be....?





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Old 06-02-2019, 12:55 AM   #2483
cp[mike]
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is the EVAP system working? after driving the car for a while, when you opened the gas cap, did you hear pressure hissing out? Perhaps the built up pressure was forcing gas fumes and droplets out through the pump gasket.
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Old 06-02-2019, 11:18 AM   #2484
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Originally Posted by cp[mike] View Post
is the EVAP system working? after driving the car for a while, when you opened the gas cap, did you hear pressure hissing out? Perhaps the built up pressure was forcing gas fumes and droplets out through the pump gasket.
Ya, EVAP was working and the leak was an obvious drip. But I already ordered a Walbro 450 pump. And looking at this unit now I'm more puzzled than before, everything looks fine. But why would the fuel be coming out near the seal. The car was sitting in the garage idling when the leak was happening.





The banjo bolts /clamps were tight. I thought the banjo bolts / clamps were loose in which the pump would shoot fuel up at the fuel pump lid leak out the seal.... but doesn't seem to be the case.




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Old 06-03-2019, 07:06 AM   #2485
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Totally a shot in the dark because I haven't ever done a fuel pump on a Honda but is there a washer missing from the banjo bolt? Just asking because every banjo I have run across in my experience has a washer on each side and I have chased leaks from only having one installed, just a guess.
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Old 06-03-2019, 10:39 AM   #2486
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Hey, considering the leak is recent and i had this setup for 2+ years I don't think it's related but thanks for thinking outside the box. Maybe the leak is coming from the banjo connection and not the seal portion.

Looking at the document/pic/schematic there should be a washer on either side of the line. Good find! I'll make sure to get that done. It's hard to see in the pic if there is a washer on either side, i'll check tonight when i get home. I think the only thing i can do there is to make sure all fittings are tight and put that tank back in the car with the new Walbro 450lph pump.

Last edited by Raf99; 06-17-2019 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 06-17-2019, 05:45 AM   #2487
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So tested out the o'rings and connections on the pump holder unit that goes in the tank. Could not find any issues with anything. So just going to get everything installed to the best of my ability. I also noticed there is other pressure related valves in the tank (center opening), but not sure what the function of these are for....

What's everyone's thoughts on the Walbro 450 pump sock not sitting flush in the tank vs. OEM? (One side is up against the wall/on an angle; )



Other pics:

Old unit:









Put some undercoating on the tank again and will put it back in the car this week. I'm still puzzled as to why I had a leak, I'm starting to wonder why fuel would even pressure itself up near the seal.

Last edited by Raf99; 06-17-2019 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 06-21-2019, 07:55 PM   #2488
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Does the 450 not require that elbow adapter? I know with the 255lph you have to use that elbow adapter or else it won’t sit right and you’ll run out of fuel at 1/4 because it cant reach the remaining fuel.
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Old 06-22-2019, 06:46 AM   #2489
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Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
Does the 450 not require that elbow adapter? I know with the 255lph you have to use that elbow adapter or else it won’t sit right and you’ll run out of fuel at 1/4 because it cant reach the remaining fuel.
I hear ya, but it did not come with one. So meh, 3/4 of it is sitting flat and on the bottom of the tank, should do.

Anyways....

- Checked spout for leaks. None
- Walbro 450lph installed.
- Double clamped all hoses
- All looks good.

Started it up. Ran great 39PSI at the rail. But couldn't hold idle really well. Quickly realized the breaker I have in the bay turned off.










Sooo some follow up issues arose.

1. The 180amp breaker I have in the engine bay kept popping, especially with the lights and fan on. This means the ALT cannot charge the battery. This causes idle issues and things to die rather quicly.

2. After a few starts and especially when turning accessories on it is now broken. I ran this setup all last summer but the change here is the addition to the negative cable back to the battery from the trans case. I don't see it as related.

3. This is not the first time I've had issues with this. So far I'm blaming the cheap ebay breaker. Or I've miscalculated the amp draw at this part of the setup. When you put the battery in the trunk the three major items that need power are the alt + fuse box + starter. 1 wire from trunk goes to engine bay where it splits to a splitter. One wire goes to starter and other wire goes to breaker. Off the breaker I run the fuse box & ALT. I have a circuit breaker at that junction point in-case any damage to the wiring should occur up there. I'm thinking I need to change that area to a pure splitter (no breaker). Yes, there's a breaker in the trunk as well (180amp) which never blows. I already bought a cheapy 200amp breaker in anticipation that this would happen...... Currently I'm thinking it's the cheap ebay breakers that are not doing the job. But I'm also a little puzzled why it would blow when the trunk does not. Obviously has to do with the amount of power the fuse box is pulling from the ALT and thinking I need to re-think this. Thinking the fuse should simply run off pure power (no breaker) or simply have a 3 way splitter.


Last edited by Raf99; 06-22-2019 at 06:50 AM.
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Old 06-22-2019, 07:35 AM   #2490
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It would not surprise me if that breaker is subpar and won't handle the current it's rated for.
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Old 06-22-2019, 10:10 AM   #2491
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It would not surprise me if that breaker is subpar and won't handle the current it's rated for.
Agreed, know where I can get a superior one ?
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Old 06-23-2019, 09:56 AM   #2492
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No worries. I gave it a lot of thought and I'm simply going to buy a power distribution block to split the power between the starter / fuse box / alternator. Also thinking a lot, the alternator in the OEM setup feeds from the fuse box. And only needs a 80AMP fuse. The components get their power straight from the ALT. I think my mistake here is due to wire distance and not having the alternator and fuse box share the same distribution point + cheap ebay junk things are not working.

I thought about feeding the ALT from the fuse box again but I think the wire length is too much. So I bought a 3 way power splitter. The battery will have a breaker on it in the trunk, then to 3 way splitter in the engine bay and the 3 splits will be starter, ALT, fuse box.
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Old 06-24-2019, 07:57 AM   #2493
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After the summer, this is one of my winter projects. To do exactly what you described, 3 way splitter and 3 individual power wires.
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Old 06-24-2019, 06:25 PM   #2494
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After the summer, this is one of my winter projects. To do exactly what you described, 3 way splitter and 3 individual power wires.
I'm still a little concerned about safety here. I mean the battery has a breaker on it, yep. But the alternator provides power too. If the alt or fuse wire suffered damage would there be a safety issue I wonder.
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Old 06-25-2019, 07:50 AM   #2495
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If any the current wires suffered damage wouldn't there be a safety issue? If the draw becomes too great it should kick the breaker on the battery.

Option B: A two way splitter with power going to the fuse box and the starter. While maintaining the wire from the alternator to the fuse box?

Also how likely are you to run the cable where it is going to sustain damage? Aside from some total freak incident that no one can predict where something just stupid happens.
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Old 06-25-2019, 10:23 AM   #2496
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Option B: A two way splitter with power going to the fuse box and the starter. While maintaining the wire from the alternator to the fuse box?
Once I am finished tuning I that will be my next project, I have all the parts just need to put in the time.
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Old 06-26-2019, 11:58 AM   #2497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rilas View Post
If any the current wires suffered damage wouldn't there be a safety issue? If the draw becomes too great it should kick the breaker on the battery.

Option B: A two way splitter with power going to the fuse box and the starter. While maintaining the wire from the alternator to the fuse box?

Also how likely are you to run the cable where it is going to sustain damage? Aside from some total freak incident that no one can predict where something just stupid happens.
My fear was the power wire i had running under the bumper going to the alternator. Rocks hit it, etc. and should I have a breaker at that point. Now I'm realizing that any breaker cannot take the amperage running through there and I'm just going to install a splitter. I would maintain the fuse box wire to alternator but the fuse box is now in the cabin and I also don't think the OEM wire will reach + the distance is longer which affect the 80amp fuse.

But I like your thinking. I'm going to simply run the fuse box and alternator wires to the same junction point now. The starter will be there too but it's only used on startup. So power should flow to fuse box and back to battery (when needed). Hope this will do. But if this fails then I will put the ALT straight back to the fuse box.
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Old 07-03-2019, 04:03 AM   #2498
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Well, it's an easy install....



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Old 07-04-2019, 08:25 PM   #2499
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And ironically the ebay circuit breaker broke in the same fashion as the last one.


And with this work done, I still have a dam idle issue. If I blip the throttle it won't recover and almost stalls when trying to go back to idle. The more load (lights, etc.) the worse the issue. I unplugged the IACV and didn't seem to have the issue anymore so currently I'm pushing to this being a IACV problem. It is the original one. I may mess with the S300 IACV setting tomorrow. I'm not sure why one would adjust this setting when the car an fine prior..., I'm thinking if I have to adjust this it means the IACV is malfunctioning.

"IAC duty cycle - adjusts the feedback relationship between the current engine speed, target idle speed and idle valve duty cycle. If the idle dips low once the throttle is released, increase the IAC duty cycle. If the idle speed 'hangs', reduce the IAC duty cycle."

Last edited by Raf99; 07-04-2019 at 08:27 PM.
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Old 07-05-2019, 04:12 PM   #2500
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Yes. If you unplug the IACV & it does not change the idle that is porbably
the culprit regarding the idle issue.

Especially if you can increase the IACV in s300 with no change to the idle then it is a definite issue.

I am curious, what is the AFR on your wideband when this is happening??


I love this build man. Your CB is one of the only reasons I still get on here.
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