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Old 12-23-2013, 05:32 AM   #1
Flushcb
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Post Noob questions for H swap

Well I just need to make sure I have it all down.. So I have a jdm 92-95 obd1 h22 and I'm swapping out my f22a4..
So I know I can use the accord harness with minimal mods, just undo the tape and loom and move the connectors where I need them to be, and swap a few sensors from the f to the h since the accord harness won't plug into some of the h sensors.
I have a vtec subharness from rywire for $55 and I know what pins go where, and a p13 obd1 ecu. So won't that be all the work for the wiring?
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Old 12-23-2013, 07:14 AM   #2
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What is in the rywire harness? I don't know.
But yes that should be about all you need.
VTEC oil
Vtec soleniod
Knock sensor

Its not too difficult. As long as you have a good engine to start with.

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Old 12-23-2013, 07:33 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoner51 View Post
What is in the rywire harness? I don't know.
But yes that should be about all you need.
VTEC oil
Vtec soleniod
Knock sensor

Its not too difficult. As long as you have a good engine to start with.

steve
http://www.rywire.com/catalog/obd1-o...ness-p-18.html
This is the subharness. It should come in today, along with the mounts and exhaust. The h22 has everything, the only problem I see myself running into is becoming familiar with where all the sensors are located on the motor.
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Old 12-23-2013, 09:47 AM   #4
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If the engine is a JDM engine then the VTEC solenoid will have a bolt threaded into where the oil pressure switch is. If your ECU is JDM then it won't even look for it. If not, then go grab a switch off of a VTEC solenoid from a '94-'97 Accord with an F22B1 or '92-'95 Civic with a D16Z6. There are many more than that but those are super common.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrett View Post
If the engine is a JDM engine then the VTEC solenoid will have a bolt threaded into where the oil pressure switch is. If your ECU is JDM then it won't even look for it. If not, then go grab a switch off of a VTEC solenoid from a '94-'97 Accord with an F22B1 or '92-'95 Civic with a D16Z6. There are many more than that but those are super common.
Alright, thanks for letting me know! Yeah it's a jdm engine and a usdm p13. Could I just order the switch for a f22b1? The local jy won't let anyone pick at the motors, you have to buy the damn thing. Their prices are up there too.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:50 PM   #6
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Ohhhhhh waiiiiiit. So this green connector is the oil pressure switch? That's all I need is the vtec solenoid that came with the oil pressure switch?
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Old 12-23-2013, 03:59 PM   #7
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There will be two separate connectors on the VTEC solenoid that the USDM P13 will look for. One is for the solenoid on top that both ECUs look for. The second is the green connector for the pressure switch on the side of the solenoid that only the US P13s look for. Since your solenoid is from a JDM engine it likely has a bolt in place to plug the hole. You can order the switch but it will be expensive. If I were you I would order a used VTEC solenoid on eBay from one of the engines I listed above since it will be cheap. Then purchase a Rywire subharness to wire everything up. Or there are cheaper alternatives on eBay from a couple of guys that just build subharnesses and sell them on eBay.
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Old 12-23-2013, 04:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrett View Post
There will be two separate connectors on the VTEC solenoid that the USDM P13 will look for. One is for the solenoid on top that both ECUs look for. The second is the green connector for the pressure switch on the side of the solenoid that only the US P13s look for. Since your solenoid is from a JDM engine it likely has a bolt in place to plug the hole. You can order the switch but it will be expensive. If I were you I would order a used VTEC solenoid on eBay from one of the engines I listed above since it will be cheap. Then purchase a Rywire subharness to wire everything up. Or there are cheaper alternatives on eBay from a couple of guys that just build subharnesses and sell them on eBay.
I already have the subharness from rywire, I'll be ordering the vtec solenoid or looking for someone parting out a f22b1.
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:04 PM   #9
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I got to looking on the h22 and the vtec solenoid has the oil pressure switch, idk how to post pics on here.):
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:00 PM   #10
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The VTEc oil pressure switch you can find on any USDM honda with VTEC. Mine was from an accord.

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Old 12-23-2013, 11:21 PM   #11
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This is the Vtec solenoid on my H22.
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BcOSAvcIQAA64Kc.jpg
I'm missing one of the mounting studs as well, could i get this off of any h/f motor that has already been pulled?
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:51 PM   #12
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swap

that is the same swap i did. i have 90 accord, I used the f22 distributer cap with the h22 dizzy and the same rewire harness. the egr plug is different just swap it and the egr plug and vss plug are the same dont get them mixed up. use the f22 water neck and fuel rail, make sure to swap the injectors you want the h22 injectors. I did not have to undue the harness at all. all the plugs fit in the stock location, it looks factory. I also mixed and matched the pulleys so the all had the same rib pattern. the swap took 1 day and no check engine lights, you will be very happy.
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:56 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by ridingtom9891 View Post
that is the same swap i did. i have 90 accord, I used the f22 distributer cap with the h22 dizzy and the same rewire harness. the egr plug is different just swap it and the egr plug and vss plug are the same dont get them mixed up. use the f22 water neck and fuel rail, make sure to swap the injectors you want the h22 injectors. I did not have to undue the harness at all. all the plugs fit in the stock location, it looks factory. I also mixed and matched the pulleys so the all had the same rib pattern. the swap took 1 day and no check engine lights, you will be very happy.
wow, 1 day? That's amazing lol. so you didn't have to undo the loom to pull a few connectors to the sensors? At the end of the day I always look at my f motor and check where the engine harness goes and what connects to what then look at the H motor and try to match them up as best as I can lol. But what do I do with this black vacuum box? I think it has the map sensor in it, some say. But the h has the map on the tb right? could i rip out the black box and just use the map on the tb?
Ps: thanks for your input!
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:50 AM   #14
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I did this H22 swap on my 92 EX almost two years ago and I used my F22 engine harness. I also bought the rywire sub-harness to connect the VTEC function on my H22A.

The things I changed on the H to make the harness an easy change over were:

1: Install Accord oil pressure sending unit so the harness plugs in.

2: I untaped Oxygen sensor harness, only needed a little more length I got more than enough harness length to reach oxygen sensor. Re-loomed and retaped O2 harness.

(I used an aftermarket header for the 93-96 Vtec Prelude as noted in the swap FAQ's)

3: I installed the Accord top radiator hose water neck, because it
has a coolant temp sensor in it and the harness plugs in. The JDM H22 did not have that sensor in the water neck.

4: I used the F22 EGR valve, harness plugs in.

5: I used the F22 fuel rail BUT use the H injectors.

6: I took the H internal coil distributor and removed all of the internals from the housing. I then took my F22 distributor which is an external coil distributor, removed the internals of that distributor. I then put the F22 internal parts into the H distributor housing.
Making an external coil H22 distributor.

You will be HAPPY you did the swap Best of luck to you.
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Old 12-24-2013, 01:22 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Dog 61 View Post
I did this H22 swap on my 92 EX almost two years ago and I used my F22 engine harness. I also bought the rywire sub-harness to connect the VTEC function on my H22A.

The things I changed on the H to make the harness an easy change over were:

1: Install Accord oil pressure sending unit so the harness plugs in.

2: I untaped Oxygen sensor harness, only needed a little more length I got more than enough harness length to reach oxygen sensor. Re-loomed and retaped O2 harness.

(I used an aftermarket header for the 93-96 Vtec Prelude as noted in the swap FAQ's)

3: I installed the Accord top radiator hose water neck, because it
has a coolant temp sensor in it and the harness plugs in. The JDM H22 did not have that sensor in the water neck.

4: I used the F22 EGR valve, harness plugs in.

5: I used the F22 fuel rail BUT use the H injectors.

6: I took the H internal coil distributor and removed all of the internals from the housing. I then took my F22 distributor which is an external coil distributor, removed the internals of that distributor. I then put the F22 internal parts into the H distributor housing.
Making an external coil H22 distributor.

You will be HAPPY you did the swap Best of luck to you.
I have a feeling I will be very happy once I'm done with the swap and thanks how hard was doing the distributor?
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Old 12-24-2013, 01:26 AM   #16
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And what did you do for the map sensor? They told me to use the map sensor on the H22's tb, and just delete that black vacuum box with the map sensor.
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Old 12-24-2013, 02:01 AM   #17
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The engine I bought is a OBD-1 1992-1995 JDM H22 from H motorsonline.
The MAP sensor I used was the stock one for the F22. It is in the black box mounted on the fire wall on the passanger side. All of the H22's I've seen have all been OBD-1 and they did not have a MAP sensor on the throttle body.
I was told that the throttle body with the MAP sensor mounted on it was an OBD-2 thing but, I DO NOT know this to for sure.
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Old 12-24-2013, 02:14 AM   #18
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There isn't a way to get rid of that black box is there? /:
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Old 12-24-2013, 03:29 AM   #19
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The distributor was real easy, I just wanted everything to plug in correctly I didn't want to cut and splice anthing.

All I did was to carefuly take apart the H distributor, I made note where the peices came out from and how they were arranged I laid them out for a refrence when I took them apart. I used the F22 distributor so I could learn more honda distributors. All I needed was the internals of the F distributor so I could put them into the H distributor housing. I used the F distributor to learn how to take one apart


You must remove the distributor shaft from the distributors to take them apart. There is a snap ring that goes around locator tab, this is the tab that goes into the cam when installing the distributor.
There is an indexing mark on the bottom of the distributor. It is a line that is machined on the tab and there is one on the bottom of the body of the distributor, when they are lined up the rotor is also lined up.
You remove the snap-ring and then you can see and remove the taper pin that goes through the locator tab and the distributor shaft holding them in place. Remove the locator tab, Once this is done turn distributor over. DO NOT MIX H and F parts keep separate.
Undo everything you can on the top part up the distributor then there is 3 or 4 screwes holding an aluminum divider plate in place. There are more connections below, THIS is why you have to remove the distributor shaft. I tapped the shaft out carefuly with a hammer and a brass punch, and that's it. You need to remove the items below the plate as well and that's all.

Clean it I put some fresh grease where the bearing is in the bottom and put some on the distributor shaft where the bearing will be but not a lot. Then re-assemble, just reversing the process. Make sure the rotor is pointing to number 1 cylinder position, then replace the locator tab making sure the index mark lines up put the taper pin back in place and re-install the snap ring and doubble check your work. I think that was all.
Almost 2 years and 10 K miles not a single hitch. The reason I know you can have the index mark wrong is because I did it, I had the distributor 180 degrees out of time. I matched the index mark up but did not doubble check the rotor position.
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Old 12-24-2013, 10:38 AM   #20
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Map sensor swap thread. I did this about a year ago.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...3&page=2&pp=20

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