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Old 05-07-2019, 07:44 PM   #1
RabbittCB7
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H22A1 swap, misfires / wont idle, need help!

I have been working hard on putting my CB7 back on the road, with an H22A1 engine to replace its blown F22. The swap is done, and I've been tinkering with the car trying to get it to just run properly it sounds like its misfiring , and it won't idle on its own. if you retard the timing , it will idle at ~2k with a misfire. No matter what I do it wont run clean :[ it's definitely a rich mixture too. I have replaced and double checked the timing belt, replaced plugs and wires, and I'm hooked up to a P13 ecu. I had to add a knock sensor to the harness , I have CEL codes 21 and 41 (V-Tec and O2 not hooked up yet). I also haven't changed the cap and rotor yet , but I figured it should run fine regardless? Its open header because I haven't converted the B pipe on the accord exhaust to mate with the H22a1 manifold , hence why I haven't hooked up O2. and I figured I can wire vtec in later , since I just want it to idle for now. I deleted IAB, and there isn't a trouble code asking for it apparently. Will a CEL cause the ECU to run in a limp mode? and would limp mode cause an ugly misfire and high/no idle condition? I need an expert on this one x.x;;; There are so many H22A1 swapped CB7's out there, someone has got to have some idea :f


https://gyazo.com/12fa0020150f1eb41c2264074fe1629a

BTW I'm new to this forum, thanks in advance for your help!
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Old 05-07-2019, 07:52 PM   #2
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A CEL can definitely put it in limp mode, though that shouldn’t keep it from idling.

Have you done a compression test? Checked to make sure all injectors are working (and working correctly)? How do the spark plugs look? Is the distributor mounted correctly?

What you describe REALLY sounds like the valve timing is off, but I know you’ve double checked that.
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Old 05-07-2019, 09:38 PM   #3
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No O2 and ECU throwing a O2 sensor code will cause all of this. How can it read A/F readings with no O2..... , especially in closed loop. Fix the codes first.
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Old 05-07-2019, 09:44 PM   #4
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I thought the ECU only relies on O2 after 5 minutes of running? I'll order an exhaust and put it together and see if there are any changes.

I thought it sounded like the timing was wrong too, but I've triple checked it.

I'm gonna try a cap and rotor while im at it, I didn't do it earlier because they didn't look so bad. Should I change the ignitor as well?

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Old 05-07-2019, 09:44 PM   #5
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The o2 sensor only matters once the engine is at operating temperature. When the ECU is in open loop mode, it’s fueling based on the fuel map, not sensor feedback.
If it’s giving problems at cold idle, the o2 sensor isn’t a likely culprit. It WILL cause issues at operating temperature, certainly.
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Old 05-07-2019, 09:46 PM   #6
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Are the camshafts and gears factory original? Is there any indication of damage or alteration? If the cams or gears are somehow wrong, you could be lining up all the marks and the timing would be off.
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Old 05-07-2019, 10:02 PM   #7
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I'm using all stock internals and cams, The only new parts are bearings, piston rings, and engine gasket set. I want to make sure it runs before spending money on exhaust. Plug wires are brand new, along with spark plugs. They are quite black now from running it rich for a few minutes, it sounds like a cylinder may not be firing, its hard to tell if it's related to distributor timing, it was too difficult to use a timing light on it with the idle so irradic
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Old 05-09-2019, 04:00 PM   #8
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if the ignition timing (Distributor) is not set correctly , and there is CEL 21 and 41, (Vtec Sol. & o2) , would it idle like an old truck? I tried a cap and rotor, double checked spark plug wiring , it didn't really change anything but at least its out of the way. I left the 3 bolts loose on the dizzy cause I was playing with it trying to get it to even out and let me idle at 650 but it would cut out and die if I let go of the throttle. I turned the dizzy a bit and it wanted to stay idling (very rough) at ~2k. It doesn't seem to know how to engine ._. sounds like the compression is really good when i'm cranking the starter or by hand

Also there seems to be quite a few plugs on the accord harness that no longer have a home … is that normal with an H22 swap? Can I cut one of those unused green plug ends to make a connection for my vtec solenoid? (They fit, and its not plugged in to anything... )

Last edited by RabbittCB7; 05-09-2019 at 04:03 PM.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:04 PM   #9
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If I remember correctly I used all my plugs on my old f22 harness. What map sensor are you using? The accord one that runs off a vacuum hose or did you wire in the one on top of the Throttle body? Which plugs aren’t you using?

Green plugs one should go to the sensor on the thermostat and the other goes to the sensor on the neck that connects to the upper radiator hose.
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Old 05-10-2019, 12:04 AM   #10
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I'm using an accord map sensor that I just have plugged into a vaccum line running to the IM, and a 3 wire connector. It doesn't really look like that green plug reaches all the way over there to the back of the thermostat housing, theres nothing plugged into that currently. Also Purge valve and EGR aren't plugged in / been deleted. IAB's also deleted. Theres a 3 wire plug near that green connector I mentioned earlier, it isn't plugged into anything . those ends are near my starter sitting basically on top of the trans . I did auto to 5spd swap like 5 years ago and cant quite remember what I did to the harness, I think I just cut the transmission plug ends that weren't used on a 5spd
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