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SUSP : 5-lug conversion (the all-prelude way)

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    #31
    Bump sluts...

    So we have to use 5th gen Prelude parts? Or can we use other 5-lug car parts, i.e., 2.5/3.2TL, 6th gen Accord V6, CR-V maybe? It's a pain to find 5th gen parts...but Odysseys are cabs in NYC. Anybody? Beuller? Beuller?


    Originally posted by lordoja
    im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

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      #32
      Allright, I'm going to bump this awesome thread by asking a couple of questions

      For the front..

      1) Based on Mike's post and info, I can assume that the 5th gen Lude's upper control arms will bolt on to our cars with no problem? I see that using the Lude knuckles with stock Accord UCAs will push the camber out, and I also read that Lude UCAs are shorter than the Accord UCAs...If this is true, then using Lude knuckles and Lude UCAs will keep the cambers negative for us with lowered cars? (I kinda like my negative camber hehe )

      2) Mike mentioned that one of the ways to do this is by swapping the Lude lower ball joints with the Accord ones, since the Lude use a 19mm nut and our stock ones use 17mm..Jose also mentioned that the Ludes lower ball joints are not replaceable, and that you have to get the whole new knuckle? Soo what is the deal with this one? Is it possible to press out the lower ball joints on the Lude knuckles and replace it with the Accord ones?

      3) About the driver's side axle..Mike stated that tranny type matters for the 5th gen Accord axles...So with my car (5 speed) means that I have to get one for 5-speed tranny as well, am I correct? (Just making sure hehe ) And with the H22 swap, I still have to use the stock 4th gen Accord intermediate shaft and passenger side, and everything will bolt up good?

      For the rear..

      1) Is it possible to use the Lude rear calipers? Are they any better than our stock ones, or are they just the same? (Just out of curiousity)

      Thanks so much in advance guys If this isn't too too bad, I might just end up doing this in the spring, since I have all the parts sitting in my driveway anyway, why not use it right?

      Ronald

      |~~~~~~~~~~~~- Project CL1 Euro-R continues -~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by Ronald_Type-R
        Allright, I'm going to bump this awesome thread by asking a couple of questions

        For the front..

        1) Based on Mike's post and info, I can assume that the 5th gen Lude's upper control arms will bolt on to our cars with no problem? I see that using the Lude knuckles with stock Accord UCAs will push the camber out, and I also read that Lude UCAs are shorter than the Accord UCAs...If this is true, then using Lude knuckles and Lude UCAs will keep the cambers negative for us with lowered cars? (I kinda like my negative camber hehe )

        2) Mike mentioned that one of the ways to do this is by swapping the Lude lower ball joints with the Accord ones, since the Lude use a 19mm nut and our stock ones use 17mm..Jose also mentioned that the Ludes lower ball joints are not replaceable, and that you have to get the whole new knuckle? Soo what is the deal with this one? Is it possible to press out the lower ball joints on the Lude knuckles and replace it with the Accord ones?

        3) About the driver's side axle..Mike stated that tranny type matters for the 5th gen Accord axles...So with my car (5 speed) means that I have to get one for 5-speed tranny as well, am I correct? (Just making sure hehe ) And with the H22 swap, I still have to use the stock 4th gen Accord intermediate shaft and passenger side, and everything will bolt up good?

        For the rear..

        1) Is it possible to use the Lude rear calipers? Are they any better than our stock ones, or are they just the same? (Just out of curiousity)

        Thanks so much in advance guys If this isn't too too bad, I might just end up doing this in the spring, since I have all the parts sitting in my driveway anyway, why not use it right?

        Ronald
        1.As far as the uca in the front is concerned I beleive it presented a clearence problem because our wheel wells are skinnier.

        2.It is 100% possible to press out the lude ball joint and put in an accord unit on the lude knuckle.

        3.Stock cb7 intermediate shaft w/ a 97 accord Ex 5spd axle. Thats what I used. Thats what I know works.

        For the rear, there are no better options that will bolt onto the knuckle assembly.

        Good luck. Oh, I always wanted to tell you I love your car
        Finally Up and Running. Numbers to Follow. Check my MR

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by mayberry4thgen
          1.As far as the uca in the front is concerned I beleive it presented a clearence problem because our wheel wells are skinnier.

          2.It is 100% possible to press out the lude ball joint and put in an accord unit on the lude knuckle.

          3.Stock cb7 intermediate shaft w/ a 97 accord Ex 5spd axle. Thats what I used. Thats what I know works.

          For the rear, there are no better options that will bolt onto the knuckle assembly.

          Good luck. Oh, I always wanted to tell you I love your car
          WOW, that really didn't take long to get answers! And comes with a compliment as well!! haha thanks man, I really appreciate it!

          1) So in other words, there's no way that I'd be able to use the Lude UCAs on the Accord due to the clearance problem? Hmm that sux..Okay, sayy right now, with my setup the way it is, I measure -3.0º for the front camber..Using Lude knuckles and stock UCAs, how much would that push out my camber, and what's the approximate camber that I'd get as the result of that setup? -1.5º? -1.0º? If it's -2.5º or even -2.0º, I'll be a happy man hehe (I love negative camber)

          2) That's really good to know hehe

          3) Thanks for the clarification..I only have to get the 5th gen axle for the driver's side though, correct? And the passenger side I can just use the stock axle?


          Kinda sux that we can't upgrade our rear brakes..I'd love to have an even more balance braking bias But is it possible to use the Lude rear calipers on our cars though? My stock rear calipers look old and beaten up It'd be nice if they both use the same bracket size for the rear calipers..

          Thanks again for all the info and clarification man, I really appreciate it

          Ronald

          |~~~~~~~~~~~~- Project CL1 Euro-R continues -~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|

          Comment


            #35
            1.If you're looking @ the top of the wheel. The point of the uca (where it comes out to a triangle will be way over the tire becuase the accord lca is too short. Thus creating posotive camber. This can be countered depending on your drop. But honestly I would stick to the accord uca.

            2.no doubt

            3. Get the 5th gen axle for the drivers side and give them your 4th gen for the core.

            I would imagine our rear brake calipers piston size is as big as a ludes or itrs considering the the weight of our cars are about the same. I would just try mixing up the brackets and caliper combos of the lude klappas and see what works.
            Finally Up and Running. Numbers to Follow. Check my MR

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              #36
              when i did the rear 5 lug i still had the lude rear calipers. there was no way of using them since the e-brake cable brackets were in different spots then the accord ones.

              when i had my lude knuckles i saw that there was no way of actually putting the accord LBJ (17mm). so for the LCA i had to widen the hole to fit the 19mm lude LBJ.

              accord 5th gen axle (drivers side)
              90-93 intermediate shaft
              accord 4th gen axle (passenger side)

              ronald, like i said the positive camber *could* be adjusted with the new camber kit SPC came out with. Instead of getting the Anchor bolt kit get the UCA camber kit. 93lx has them for sale right now.

              answers from eric (mayberry4thgen), cp[mike], and myself are all the same... we all helped on my APW-5L (All Prelude Way 5lug)

              props again to us!!! lol

              *could be adjusted.... so i am not sure if it works do not take my word for it since no one has tried this with the APW-5L*
              Last edited by excalibur02; 12-22-2006, 07:31 PM.

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                #37
                OK so say I had a working CB...I just want to clarify...could I go with the following setup?

                Front:
                Odyssey hub, Prelude rotors

                Rear: Prelude hub, ITR rotors


                Originally posted by lordoja
                im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

                Comment


                  #38
                  I think theres a diy for the front w/ the oddesy knuckles. I think timmy wrote it.
                  Finally Up and Running. Numbers to Follow. Check my MR

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Yea I was looking at the Lude rear calipers this morning, and don't seem like they'd work on our cars..Too bad

                    About the camber kit...I was looking around for some today, and a lot of 'em only allow correction of 0 to +3 degrees or something..I swear, the last time I was looking at some camber kits, they claimed to be able to allow -3 to +3 or something..Right now, the only camber kits I've checked that allows SOME negative cambers are either Progress or Eibach, and those are expensive..

                    IF the APW-5L ends up giving me a positive camber up front, thenn getting SPC camber kit that only allows correction from 0 to +3 would not make any difference, since it won't let me to lower the camber at all

                    Anyone has any other solution to fix the positive camber problem? I'd love to do this conversion, but only if there's a way to keep my negative camber up front hehe I love them too much Oh and it seems that doing the APW-5L would also lower the offset for the front suspension..Any idea how much it widen the stance by? Maury is using the Lude blades (+50 to +55 offset if I'm not mistaken), and he mentioned that the wheels are sitting flush with the front fenders..So my guess is that this conversion must have widen the stance by quite a bit then..My Volks didn't even sit flush with the fenders, and they have +35 offset! Hehe..I wonder what'd be a good offset (for wheels) after doing this conversion..

                    Thanks again for Maury, Eric and Mike for providing all the infos..you guys are awesome Keep 'em coming please!!

                    Ronald

                    |~~~~~~~~~~~~- Project CL1 Euro-R continues -~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Is there any way to do this conversion with just hubs and rotors? I.e., if I wanted to use all new, non-junkyard parts, as well as retain my stock knuckle/ball joints/susp. geometry?


                      Originally posted by lordoja
                      im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by gloryaccordy
                        Is there any way to do this conversion with just hubs and rotors? I.e., if I wanted to use all new, non-junkyard parts, as well as retain my stock knuckle/ball joints/susp. geometry?

                        when i did my 5 lug conversion, i used a pair of BB6 arms upfront (complete with rotors, calipers, balljoints) and for the rear, i retained the old 4 lug rotor and knuckle

                        i sent the rear rotors and knuckles to an engineering shop (u guys call em fabricators i think) and i just told them to turn them into 114.3 5 lugs..

                        what he did was drill 4 new holes on the rotor and welded an extra stud on the knuckle, and voila, by afternoon, its done..

                        the same can be done for the fronts, by highly non-advisable... ur better of with either an RA1 oddy, CH6 (CF4 wagonSiR), BB6, or, alternatively, if u opt for bigger brakes, the BB6 type-s, CL1 euro-r or the RA6 oddy.. their arm assemblies are highly similar to the CB's..
                        Last edited by blizzard335; 12-29-2006, 11:37 AM.

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                          #42
                          done it a better way 3.5 years ago, one of the first to fully complete the swap in 1 hour not using lude crap, brought the lude full front n back from a member on honda society back in 2000 named will (value) from texas and didnt even need it, i still got all the stuff for sale
                          knowledge is everything with experience on hand then just hearing word of mouth doesnt prove you can do anything

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                            #43
                            since i turbo my fully built jdm h22a, i swapped the complete new odessy master clyninder and brakebooster and all, it deff made my fat ass wagon stop faster then a ford festiva at a redlight
                            knowledge is everything with experience on hand then just hearing word of mouth doesnt prove you can do anything

                            Comment


                              #44
                              any more info or pics from his swap?
                              any info on doing it to a CD accord?

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                                #45
                                im more interested in what blizzard has to say

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