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Old 05-15-2014, 09:47 PM   #21
af_1132
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Car is back from the shop with the M/T street radials fitted. 1/2" spacers and lugs that fit through the holes were used.







The steering wheel constantly shakes an uncomfortable amount now, though. I had the wheels balanced, so I wonder if it is time for an alignment. I plan to use my street wheels/tires to drive to the track and then put these on when I get there. I will have to put the steelies back on to see if there is a difference in that vibration.
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Old 05-16-2014, 03:45 AM   #22
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Those are mag wheels I think, your shaking can be that they aren't seated right on the studs, or its not hubcentric or its the wrong wheel nuts.

Also IMO mag wheels should be torqued to 100 ft lbs.
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Old 05-16-2014, 11:40 AM   #23
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They are actually modular aluminum wheels, although they look alot like mags for sure.

http://centerlinewheels.com/wheels_d...d=34&sw_id=372

I do worry about hub-centricity, though. Can proper wheel balancing compensate, at least a little, for a wheel not being hubcentric? I will also post up a picture of the wheel nuts when I get a chance.

Thanks very much for the ideas and advice. Oh, the pains of car modification!
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:05 AM   #24
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Battery Disconnect Switch Installed

I installed the external master disconnect switch today. There are two more prongs so that I can splice into the charging circuit with this switch if I wanted to, but I need to ask the racer heads on here if they have done it, and where to splice into.



I think I'll make a DIY for this, since I have not seen any yet.

Now I am all ready for racing on the 21st and 25th!
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Old 05-19-2014, 03:47 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by af_1132 View Post
They are actually modular aluminum wheels, although they look alot like mags for sure.

http://centerlinewheels.com/wheels_d...d=34&sw_id=372

I do worry about hub-centricity, though. Can proper wheel balancing compensate, at least a little, for a wheel not being hubcentric? I will also post up a picture of the wheel nuts when I get a chance.

Thanks very much for the ideas and advice. Oh, the pains of car modification!
Cars can be vehicle mounted and balanced. It isn't a common thing to do as it's more difficult and takes longer. But you would be putting a bandaid on a broken leg. I would figure out a way to fix the eccentricity.
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:18 AM   #26
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I had the shop re balance the wheels, and things are better, but not perfect. I'm also wondering if the tires need to be trued. The tire shop I use does not do this or anything beyond balancing as they have done. For the possible eccentricity, I'm interested to find out if there is a shop in my area that does that kind of modification with wheels.
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Old 05-19-2014, 01:20 PM   #27
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You should have had your tires road forced along with balanced. It's pretty much required for a good ride. I would bet it's your alignment. With your scrub radius extended that far and with tires that sticky, any error in the alignment or varying bushing hardness from old bushings will cause longitudinal oscillations in the wheel. It's it only the wheel that vibrates or is it the chassis too? Is it side to side or vertical like going over little bumps? But either way, get s good alignment and get the tires road forced them balanced on a Hunter machine. Then if it still vibrates you need to carefully bolt the wheels down to keep them centered. Still if that doesn't work check the bushings. Then if it still isn't right you can look at an on car balance.
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:14 PM   #28
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Wow, thank you so much!

The chassis does not vibrate, just the steering wheel, and it is side to side. I know for sure I need new bushings, and I have the Energy Suspension Hyper Flex system ready to install.

I don't think I mentioned this yet, but when I put the steelies back on, there is no vibration in the steering wheel whatsoever.

I'm for sure going to have "Thank You" decals made or the rear small windows, and you will be on that list, domesticated!
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:37 PM   #29
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The wheels and tires are most likely out of round then. Get them roadforced and the problem should be fixed.
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Old 05-21-2014, 08:04 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domesticated View Post
The wheels and tires are most likely out of round then. Get them roadforced and the problem should be fixed.
Now, I just have to find a shop in town that does this.
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The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!

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Old 05-21-2014, 08:18 PM   #31
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Low point #1

This whole battery relocation and disconnect switch rig that I did has really messed up my car. It is completely my fault, too, for not doing enough research and purchasing in haste. On Sunday, I rigged the 4 post disconnect switch up in series to only the starter with the two larger posts, thinking that this was a good start to getting this thing fully set up. It wasn't, as I now, of this morning, have no starter relay click and no car starter action with the key.

Thank goodness I had Ralphie, sonikaccord, and cp[mike] help create some sense out of the chaos in my own head and talked some sense into me with some alternatives that actually work. I could have really caused someone to mess up their car by exposing my "setup" in a DIY thread .

I wonder if I should have never done all of this, as I only wanted more space in the engine bay for intake piping! Good GRIEF!!!! Time will tell, but I am now thinking about an Odyssey PC680 with hold down kit back in the engine bay.

I also was told today by my boss that I can no longer work on my car at work, and I'm pretty sure this happened because I got "ratted out" by another co-worker for working in the wee hours last night trying to get the car ready for racing today. This brought me to a low point, because I have to move my whole project to my garage-less street-parking-only sketchy neighborhood.

I guess the low points are where most of the experiential learning actually occurs.
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The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!

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Old 05-24-2014, 12:05 AM   #32
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Dam good shit. Fuel cell and all. I would change the brakes to roh. Or use cb9 brake hor. They are 11.1. But she's clean. And guttes because race car! What kinda header is that.??


I was told her h23a1 are bigger and longer than f22a but I can't find the thread to confirm
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Old 05-24-2014, 12:54 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F20A CB7 View Post
Dam good shit. Fuel cell and all. I would change the brakes to roh. Or use cb9 brake hor. They are 11.1. But she's clean. And guttes because race car! What kinda header is that.??

I was told her h23a1 are bigger and longer than f22a but I can't find the thread to confirm
Oh no, that's not a fuel cell! Haha. That's my so far pretty sketchy battery relocation job. I'm getting some much needed help with that .

I thought about swapping in the H23A1 plenum and A6 runners, but then the IABs would have to be hooked up to get the most power out of the setup in the low end, and I'd have to modify a P06 to run the IABs. That's what made me look into the Skunk 2 H22 with F2H adapter plate. I will need to trade out my mounts for ESP's, but I was going to do that anyway .

That header is the DC Sports 4-2-1 ceramic coated. It's starting to discolor though...
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The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!

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Old 05-24-2014, 01:23 AM   #34
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To run iabs u need a pt6 ecu man. Ex 9293
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Old 05-24-2014, 01:27 AM   #35
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That's kinda big for a relocation box. They sell bttery boxes man. Save weight. Get a 3 gallon or so full sell get that heavy shit from the bottom out.
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Old 05-24-2014, 06:30 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F20A CB7 View Post
To run iabs u need a pt6 ecu man. Ex 9293
Oh, I thought you could solder a P06 to run them too; but yes, a PT6 would be ready to go out of the box.
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Old 05-24-2014, 06:39 AM   #37
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Quote:
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That's kinda big for a relocation box. They sell bttery boxes man. Save weight. Get a 3 gallon or so full sell get that heavy shit from the bottom out.
Hmm...I haven't looked into the fuel cell options yet. I just know that it must be small enough to sit real snug in the cavern for the spare tire, since NHRA does not allow fuel cells to sit with any part above the height of the rear wheels.
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Old 05-26-2014, 01:31 AM   #38
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Bump because race car! He's actually talkin the talk! Gave this thread a rating of 3 starts.

And yes p06 iab can b controlled. But like I said gutted plenum, 2 spacers and runner with cam u won't need that. I hope u don't have 2 step. U don't need a computer ro hold a shift. U can do it urself.

What rpm do u launch at?
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Old 05-26-2014, 02:37 AM   #39
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Bump because race car! He's actually talkin the talk! Gave this thread a rating of 3 starts.

And yes p06 iab can b controlled. But like I said gutted plenum, 2 spacers and runner with cam u won't need that. I hope u don't have 2 step. U don't need a computer ro hold a shift. U can do it urself.

What rpm do u launch at?
All I can do is smile , glad to have a friend in PA.

My best runs so far were at around a 2750rpms launch. Keep in mind that this is with all terrain tires, and poopy torn engine mounts. Wheel hop is quite pronounced, and I'm going to install various ESP products this summer to get things under control.

2 step? Haha, no way. You are definitely right about being able to hold a shift and a particular rpm in this car. I've got my current shift points down, so I won't need a single rev limiter either.

Thinking about the cam: knowing me, when I open up that valve train to replace the cam, I'm probably going to pair with an adjustable cam gear, upgrade the valves, and upgrade the valve springs. I've seen my exhaust valves lots of carbon deposits that look like tumorous growths, yuck! Correct me if I'm wrong, but it would behoove of me to make the most out of a cam upgrade with other valve train upgrades, right?

Oh, and then there's pnp and resleeving the block and forged pistons/rods and...never ends! I think that's why I put all these internals upgrades in the 3rd stage of the build .
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Old 05-26-2014, 03:05 AM   #40
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See how far u can go with a stock engine with a p12.. think on a cut out exhaust system also.

It would b best to upgrade the head, yes b4 puttin a new cam and cam seal.

Since its a track car.. I would cut that 1 pipe on the 4 2 1. And replace it with match diameter... and have it exist rite behind the wheel. Fuk it. Its a race car! No cat just a matchin flex pipe a short one. No need for an exhaust cut out valve then.
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