H22A7? The road to recovery. (Long read warning)

[Rilas]

I find it interesting also that the H22A7 only has 3/4 of a windage tray. Where as my H22A1 has a full windage tray. I wonder what the H22A4 windage tray looks like. Also somewhat curious as to why they thought part of it needed to be removed like that.

[Jarrett]

At this point, it may be more cost-effective to buy an H23A VTEC and selling off all serviceable components in the H22A7 engines. Keep a set of cams for yourself, and your H23A VTEC could be a decent little runner.

[CB7Denmark]

The scratch in the sleeve was on the block that my tuner had originally intended to use, I've come to the conclusion that it's simply to deep although not very long, it's still the nemesis of FRM sleeves.

You should really forget all about the block with the grenaded engine, only auxiliary parts (A/C, Gen, P/S pump, and lots of 6mm bolts) where salvageable and the crank, but it definitively needs machining to work again, that weight is scratched too badly to drop in as it is, and the sleeves looks like they made love to each other, lol, I'll bring my camera this time to get some quality pictures of said romance, (Metal sex!).

So I have a block left I only checked visually really quick, but I will pay much more attention to it today, as soon as I finish this post I am headed to the shop to check it thoroughly for damage and wear, FRM sleeves can handle quite a lot, light scratching is not to be worried about but with a limit of course, and in the end honing is always the best thing to do if possible obviously, but if you're on a budget, one does not have to worry too much about it, I don't really know my budget yet, I've just got a new contract with my job and it gives me room to manoeuvre in this world, but I am not rich.

I wouldn't want to buy a H23A (Its not really available here either) if the last block is useless as well, I will build a stroker H22A from the H22A JDM block (Provided the sleeves are fine, but it's low milage, so fingers crossed for this), my old F22A crank and some Eagle H beams, I just have to decide what I am going to do, and today might put that question to rest.
(The H22A JDM is a freebie I just have to pick it up)



I'll chime in later

[CB7Denmark]

I am back, I decided to take the bottom end with me home, so it's resting in my apartment now (Forever alone ).

I'd say the sleeves are fine, now I know, visually it looks like it's 'bad', but you can't feel anything on the surface, it feels smooth and passes the fingernail test, there is absolutely no scratches in any of the cylinders even though it looks like scratches.

I know you guys would just hone it, but that procedure is so retardedly expensive here, so if I can get away with these liners, I will do it, the re-balancing of the crank alone is $1000!!

Have a look, there's 8 photos in total, 4 for each side:

[CB7Denmark]

Update:



Parts just arrived!

Mahle Gold Series 11.5 88.25mm pistons!



Also went to visit my machinist last weekend to have him look at the block.

He told me, that besides the current bore is really worn (300.000KM block) the Alusil itself and the bore is in good shape (Does it even make sense).

So he has no problem honing it to .25 mm which Honda allows for.


I also had a good talk with him about the known failures about running these pistons in these FRM sleeves, he told me (sounding very confident) that the failures that happens is due to improper P2W clearances, that causes the piston to slap and eventually fail, the piston should be able to run even without it's coating on it's skirts, which will eventually wear off.

That is very likely what causes the Mahles to fail, that and failure to use the right honing method for FRM.

This guy works daily with AMG and M sleeves (Which is also FRM) so I have a lot of trust invested in this guy.


Anyway, so I also got a good deal on balancing the crankshaft, a mere $360, so I will have that done as well.
The honing is about $400.


All i need now to have a running engine is:

A fresh Hone.
Re-balanced Crank.
All gaskets and bearings and seals.
Connecting Rods.
New timing belt kit and pumps.
New oil pump.
Liquids and oil filter(Oil etc)
Valves & Springs + retainers.
Head refurbished.

New TUNE.



I am guessing another 2 or 3 months, I'll have her firing right up!