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Looking for opinions on Type R build (H22A7)

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    Looking for opinions on Type R build (H22A7)

    Hi guys.




    So, I've been busting my ass off to save up for a proper build, as can been seen on another thread in this sub-category, I have bought a couple of H22A7's all grenaded, I have now finished looking at them, and concluded that I am able to use a block, a crank and a head from all three engines to build a fully working one.

    Now the thing is, I never planned to go H series, I wanted to stay F, but the deal on these three engines were too good to turn down, so I haven't really thought about HP goal (which is vital in a build, imo).

    As I am getting closer and closer to pay day, I get increasing doubt as to what I am actually going to build here, I have tons of idea's but I honestly can't settle for anything right now, the more I research and gain knowledge the more disoriented I get.


    I have decided to keep the FRM sleeves and Type S pistons, so I am building around this decision.

    A7 Type-S pistons - 11.1:1
    PDE Head (Type-S) which I will port myself.

    And form here-on, I have problems deciding on parts and combinations.


    Currently the engine sits in my living room, completely disassembled, and I want to grab the opportunity to upgrade the engine now it's completely apart.

    Original intention and idea was to build it stronger, not necessarily faster (With no HP goal, what ever it puts out really)

    INTAKE

    Weapon-R CAI Intake with built-in velocity stack (In stock)

    Stock H22A JDM I.M but ported intake (In stock- not ported yet )


    EXHAUST


    Currently 2.5" Cat back on car.

    H22A Cat (will be decatted)

    Vibrant 4-2-1 Header (Not in stock as of yet)


    HEAD

    A7 PDE Head (In stock - waiting for me to port and polish it)

    Skunk2 Pro 2 (Not in stock as of yet)

    Skunk2 Alpha Valvespring and retainer kit (Not in stock as of yet)

    ARP Head studs (Not in stock as of yet)

    Upgraded Valves?


    ENGINE BLOCK

    Eagle H Connecting rods. (Not in stock as of yet)

    ARP2000 Rods bolts. (Not in stock as of yet)

    Stock pistons H22A7 11.1:1 C/R (Will get new OEM, but I have 8 used ones)

    ACL or OEM Bearings?

    TRANSMISSION

    Will be using the already swapped M2C4.




    Wish list with this build:

    9000RPM
    230hp + (Not a goal, but with this setup, I estimate it might come naturally.)
    Reliability.

    Not in that order.


    Bonus questions:

    ACL or OEM bearings?
    Stock rods with ARP2000 bolt or Eagle H beam rods? (Will see 8500 to 9000 RPM)



    If it were YOUR build, and you'd have to stick with FRM and A7 pistons (11.1:1) what would YOU do?
    Last edited by CB7Denmark; 08-30-2016, 02:30 PM. Reason: TYPE S ( not type r)
    Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

    #2
    Figure out what your end goal is, as far as actual use of the vehicle is concerned. A fun city run-around? Build it strong, like you said, stock power is enough for traffic, maybe add bolt-ons. Are you wanting to see track time? I don't know how big drag racing is in Denmark, but that's a never ending quest for more power; there's always going to be someone faster. For occasional road course, I personally wouldn't go more than hp in the high-200s, depending on supporting suspension and trans/diff mods (there are very successful CRXs/Civics with more than 300 but they have aero and chassis mods out the wazoo.

    From what I'm told, ACL doesn't have as many bearing size options as OEM. For your power goals, OEM should hold up fine.

    If I had an A7, I'd do cams, bolt-ons, and a tune, but I do a lot of spirited mountain drives and plan to hit the track. 11.1:1 is great imo. As it is, I have a JDM A with 10.6:1; not quite enough for me. Going 11.5, cams, custom intake/exhaust, and tune hoping for 240-250. 4.6 final drive down the line should help with torque.

    Accord Aero-R

    Comment


      #3
      As for me I'm either going to do type s h22 or the h23 since its cheaper and the motor in my hatch is about to go soon. Im know easily with a h2b swap setup I got going easy 12.8 in the quarter mile. Id love to decimate the newer cars of today that just love to cut people off.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
        Figure out what your end goal is, as far as actual use of the vehicle is concerned. A fun city run-around? Build it strong, like you said, stock power is enough for traffic, maybe add bolt-ons. Are you wanting to see track time? I don't know how big drag racing is in Denmark, but that's a never ending quest for more power; there's always going to be someone faster. For occasional road course, I personally wouldn't go more than hp in the high-200s, depending on supporting suspension and trans/diff mods (there are very successful CRXs/Civics with more than 300 but they have aero and chassis mods out the wazoo.

        From what I'm told, ACL doesn't have as many bearing size options as OEM. For your power goals, OEM should hold up fine.

        If I had an A7, I'd do cams, bolt-ons, and a tune, but I do a lot of spirited mountain drives and plan to hit the track. 11.1:1 is great imo. As it is, I have a JDM A with 10.6:1; not quite enough for me. Going 11.5, cams, custom intake/exhaust, and tune hoping for 240-250. 4.6 final drive down the line should help with torque.
        I hear you Cyborg.


        The car is going to be my toy, drag racing is here, but no where near as traditionalized as in USA, we have a few official meets a year in the summer time, not very serious but still fun, the illegal racing scene is by far much bigger and is pretty much every Friday and Saturday, we really want to do it right, so even though it is illegal, we still have people coordinating every launch, people are kept behind "police line" style fences and stuff like that, these are the ones I'm gonna participate mostly in.

        I do plan to go on track as well, I will be traveling to Germany to hit the Nurenburgring with this car once it's completed.
        We have tracks here in Denmark too, but regulations are off the charts.

        As for my goal, I'm hoping for 240+ crank, but I will be building my engine around whichever cam I end up choosing, I think the BC Stage 3 is a tempting option.¨

        I'm definitively gonna put in Eagle rods, so I know that the moreorless weak stock rods wont give in and spin a bearing, ARP2000 and Eagle rods should prevent that from "ever" happening, i figure.

        As for bearings, OEM is gonna be my choice, I don't trust A/M options, to be honest.
        Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

        Comment


          #5
          you might want to consider deleting the balance shafts (properly, plugging the girdle and b/s oil port in the block) as this will increase the oil pressure (for your rev goals) or if you feel the b/s's are integral; shimming and porting the oil pump to increase pressure. thats just my

          Comment


            #6
            And for your HP goals and future desired outcome rebuilding the had with better valves, springs, cams is not necessary. You can build a touch bottom end and have an OEM top end and reach the goals you are aiming for. 11:1 is fine, and so is 10:1, not many go below this compression these days.

            Comment


              #7
              Cheap build to get 230 whp and a bunch more torque:

              If you already have H22A7 PDE TypeS/EuroR head complete with cams...

              -F20B Auto $500 buying for short block only
              -Dissemble
              -$150 or less F23A crank off ebay standard
              -F23A Rods cheap ebay H beams are $220 with L19 good ARP bolts or ARP2000.
              -Take rods to machine shop get checked out to make sure will work with crank and are in tip top shape on bore of them
              -K20 86mm nippon cheapy pistons. Reverse into motor
              -1mm overbore on F20B block bore/hone

              Put together and will have a 175-185 ft lb torque monster...

              Cheap build and by far will make you happier then anything. Bigger stroke more easy hp and torque.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by ESP-net View Post
                Cheap build to get 230 whp and a bunch more torque:

                If you already have H22A7 PDE TypeS/EuroR head complete with cams...

                -F20B Auto $500 buying for short block only
                -Dissemble
                -$150 or less F23A crank off ebay standard
                -F23A Rods cheap ebay H beams are $220 with L19 good ARP bolts or ARP2000.
                -Take rods to machine shop get checked out to make sure will work with crank and are in tip top shape on bore of them
                -K20 86mm nippon cheapy pistons. Reverse into motor
                -1mm overbore on F20B block bore/hone

                Put together and will have a 175-185 ft lb torque monster...

                Cheap build and by far will make you happier then anything. Bigger stroke more easy hp and torque.
                Interesting combo...Is this something you've done before?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Just ordered Mahle Gold series
                  Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by ESP-net View Post
                    Cheap build to get 230 whp and a bunch more torque:

                    If you already have H22A7 PDE TypeS/EuroR head complete with cams...

                    -F20B Auto $500 buying for short block only
                    -Dissemble
                    -$150 or less F23A crank off ebay standard
                    -F23A Rods cheap ebay H beams are $220 with L19 good ARP bolts or ARP2000.
                    -Take rods to machine shop get checked out to make sure will work with crank and are in tip top shape on bore of them
                    -K20 86mm nippon cheapy pistons. Reverse into motor
                    -1mm overbore on F20B block bore/hone

                    Put together and will have a 175-185 ft lb torque monster...

                    Cheap build and by far will make you happier then anything. Bigger stroke more easy hp and torque.

                    Hey ESP!

                    That is too far off my plans and for what I already have in stock.


                    However, when this engine is put together, I will build a stroker H22A using only OEM and keeping it as low budget as humanly possible, hopefully to sprinkle some inspiration out there!



                    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
                    And for your HP goals and future desired outcome rebuilding the had with better valves, springs, cams is not necessary. You can build a touch bottom end and have an OEM top end and reach the goals you are aiming for. 11:1 is fine, and so is 10:1, not many go below this compression these days.

                    I'm glad to have your opinion on this, and I'm glad you shared this information, I assume you have first hand experience with this.

                    The PDE head is sort of, in a bad shape, it's gonna get a full refurbishment and my own PnP treatment, new valves springs and what not, so I figured I might as well upgrade to flat valves and harvest another 0.1 in compression, then either the BC og Supertech spring & retainer kit, I don't plan on leaving much stock in this car..
                    As for the parts, I will be running the stock cams for a short while until I settle on either a Crower stage 2 or 3, it's a tough choice.

                    I also got a great deal on balancing the crankshaft so I will have that done as well(around $360), and then I will polish the journals myself, they are in really good shape.
                    Last edited by CB7Denmark; 09-12-2016, 09:45 AM.
                    Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

                    Comment

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