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CB7Denmark : 1993 Accord EXi

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    #76
    Velocity stacks help but its like 1-2whp tops. Believe it or not stock BB4 lude induction system with k&n panel filter or aem v2 are for the BB4 are the most power on an engine producing less than 240whp. Realistically you dont even need a pipe more than 15% larger than your throttle body, otherwise it is a bottle neck. As far as the issues check valve adjustment. It should be .007" on intake and .008" on exhaust. Or .178mm/.203mm metric.
    I've also had better luck with accurate valve adjustment when ect shows 100deg. If the valve adjustment is right, re-check timing. You may be off a tooth. On a side not that gear ratio chart is a little inaccurate. A T2T4 has a .787 5th. Im not sure about the rest of the ratios. Good luck with the rest of the build. You're putting in a lot of work and I can relate and respect that.
    Last edited by jdm92_accorn; 09-08-2015, 08:28 AM.

    MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

    Comment


      #77
      Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View Post
      Velocity stacks help but its like 1-2whp tops. Believe it or not stock BB4 lude induction system with k&n panel filter or aem v2 are for the BB4 are the most power on an engine producing less than 240whp. Realistically you dont even need a pipe more than 15% larger than your throttle body, otherwise it is a bottle neck. As far as the issues check valve adjustment. It should be .007" on intake and .008" on exhaust. Or .178mm/.203mm metric.
      I've also had better luck with accurate valve adjustment when ect shows 100deg. If the valve adjustment is right, re-check timing. You may be off a tooth. On a side not that gear ratio chart is a little inaccurate. A T2T4 has a .787 5th. Im not sure about the rest of the ratios. Good luck with the rest of the build. You're putting in a lot of work and I can relate and respect that.
      According to the valve lash you just stated there, they are off, by what i consider, quite a lot.

      I was not given any data on the cam or springs (I later discovered that Bisi usually ships some sort of data on the springs and cam with the shipment) i actually had to kindly ask for the cam card before i got it.

      Here is the cam card i recieved:


      As you can see it says "Intake: 0.022mm" "Exhaust: 0.027mm" in metric units.

      As the tool i had was in MM, i couldn't get these exact numbers, so intake is .025mm (If i recall correctly) and exhaust is 0.030mm.

      As you can see, no where near the numbers you provided (I'm aware you forgot a 0 in front of the numbers). I am more than willing to readjust according to your numbers, if you think it would help in anyway, but its probably not a performance killer. I can see if it help anything to set them a 0.015mm and 0.020. Or maybe i'm doing it wrong? Back in school we learned that you set valvelash on the back of the lobe (180* opposite of max lift, if you understand).

      I doubled checked the timing by hand cranking the engine when i put things together, THAT SAID, its not impossible that the timing belt may have jumped a tooth. I will re-check timing ASAP.

      I'm afraid i'm not familiar with the abbrevation "ECT", i tried googling it and it came up with "Electronic Controlled Transmission" which again is hard linking to Valveadjustment?


      I set base idle, but my IACV kinda has its own life, i can set the base idle to 500, reconnect iacv and then it goes back to the 1000rpm idle, for a brief time i was able to keep it idling around 900rpm, but after resetting the ECU it was being a bitch again.

      I went on to check the timing to find it disturbingly off, if i had to guess it was 5 degrees advanced, i turned the dizzey CCW to get it on mark.
      It kinda relieved me of the starting issue, and kinda not, i need to crank it again once the engine cooled of to be sure.



      HOWEVER - ENGINE FATALITY

      I'm sad to report that i think i might have a faint rod knock.

      I need to do some diagnostics on the engine before i am 100% sure.

      It could be that my overly worried mind is playing games with me, but if this indeed is a rod knock im hearing, i'm afraid that im gonna retire from the game. I currently have no motivation at all to take care of such problem, the cause being the extremely limited time and space i have to take care of this. My time is limited to weekends due to work and a badly equipped shop that i use from time to time.

      I need to find out how i can identify this ever so faint knock that seems to appear in the 3800 - 4000+ rpm range.


      This is such a killer for me, i haven't even been beating on this engine yet, slightly but not very much.

      EDIT EDIT EDIT

      Sitting at my job (I work in the nerve center of IBM Security) @ 00.20 AM, i couldn't get this got damn thing out of my head, i had to abandon work just for a couple of minutes to take of the Valvecover (I could get fired for this, but this car means everything in the world to me) an inspect the valvetrain, thinking that the bisi cam maybe ate the followers or something, nothing, valvetrains looks totally fine, however i did find the play in the valvelash a tad concerning, but nothing appear to be lose.

      Faint knock is still there, as in extremely faint, so faint that i'm very much in doubt.
      Last edited by CB7Denmark; 09-08-2015, 09:10 PM.
      Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

      Comment


        #78
        Nice. I need to remove my transmission just to replace the rear main seal lol. Guess I should invest in a tranny jack. How many hours would it say it took you?

        Btw did you get the PS to work? I had one that fit perfectly (U-bend) but I tossed it a long time ago when I deleted PS. Btw, the feel of the car is much different and isnt difficult while you're rolling. I actually prefer it.


        Follow me on IG: @jdm_inspired

        93 'til infinity

        Comment


          #79
          Originally posted by jdm_inspired View Post
          Nice. I need to remove my transmission just to replace the rear main seal lol. Guess I should invest in a tranny jack. How many hours would it say it took you?

          Btw did you get the PS to work? I had one that fit perfectly (U-bend) but I tossed it a long time ago when I deleted PS. Btw, the feel of the car is much different and isnt difficult while you're rolling. I actually prefer it.
          I took the VSS from the F transmission and swapped it in the H. When you get it off, you will notice the cogwheel on the H is slightly larger in height, this should not worry you, there is no need to swap the cogwheel, then hook up the hoses and it should work, i recommend replacing the hoses while you are there anyway. The PS will work, remember to bleed it though.

          Total time spend with the swap was about 8 hrs, i can be done somewhat faster though.
          Getting the tranny off, replacing the seal, and getting it back on, could be done in 5 hrs or so, less if you have air tools and small hands.
          Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

          Comment


            #80
            Etc is engine coolant temp. As far as valve adjustment, that too tight of an adjustment, try it with my adjustment, you may be hanging the valves open. .025mm/.030mm is .001"/.0011". This can kill your new cam. Change it IMMEDIATELY! ! And bisi's cam cards are useless. What is stamped on the distributor side of the cam. All you have to do is mark the distributor position so you dont loose your timing position, then pull out the distributor and look on the end of the cam it should read something like 148E or 150E. If you can get the numbers i can get you the actual specs. Im pretty sure your cam is a little less aggressive than my old level 2. That noise is probably the piston kissing the valves.

            MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

            Comment


              #81
              Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View Post
              Etc is engine coolant temp. As far as valve adjustment, that too tight of an adjustment, try it with my adjustment, you may be hanging the valves open. .025mm/.030mm is .001"/.0011". This can kill your new cam. Change it IMMEDIATELY! ! And bisi's cam cards are useless. What is stamped on the distributor side of the cam. All you have to do is mark the distributor position so you dont loose your timing position, then pull out the distributor and look on the end of the cam it should read something like 148E or 150E. If you can get the numbers i can get you the actual specs. Im pretty sure your cam is a little less aggressive than my old level 2.
              Geez, my bad Accorn, i've been up all night (Its 04.52AM) at work and still is, plus the knock is haunting me, the valvelash is NOT set to 0.025 but 0.25 and 0.30, i will try your recommendation regardless. How could i get that wrong -.-

              I'm pretty sure it says 150E, i would have to double check in order to be 100% positive, i can do that later, i'm still at work right now.

              I'm 2000% sure it says "150" on the distributor end, in fact i have a picture, but i'm in doubt about the "E". I will look into this in a couple of hours!

              Last edited by CB7Denmark; 09-08-2015, 11:04 PM.
              Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

              Comment


                #82
                Alright guys, i'm done crying and done looking at problems, i'm looking solutions right now, and i would never retire, but my feelings got hurt when she decided to take a dump in my face.


                Here's my solution to the problems i have:

                Solution nr 1:

                http://www.raceeng.com/p-31041-wisec...-523p855r.aspx

                Solution nr 1a:

                http://www.raceeng.com/p-24638-eagle...rs5571h3d.aspx

                The block will be bored to 85.5mm to accomodate the new pistons, the prices for this lands somewhere between 450USD to 600USD, fair and square, i was expecting around 1000USD

                OEM Bearings will be picked up during this week.

                So it turns out i'm gonna build the bottom end afterall, i promised myself that i would do it, before i hit 170WHP, but since that is not going to happen now, and the fact that i'm going in anyway, i might as well do it.

                Building this may take somewhere between 2 to 5 months, depending on various elements such as workload and paychecks, and whatnot. I'm not TOTALLY sure about the timescale, because i really want to go to USA next year and visit my buddy Hellraising and maybe Illnoiserik

                I will probably buy the pistons and Eagle rods next month.

                The biggest obstacle right now is finding a place i can do the build.

                What i need to research now is whether the rods is the same length as the stock ones. Or if i even need rods? (Probably).

                As for the crank, i'm gonna leave that stock, maybe have it balanced, i don't know yet, there ain't much information on bottom end F22A builds.

                This is gonna take a couple of months though, i used quite a lot of my savings on random things, so i can't order these parts before next month, i think the pistons are relatively cheap, but i'm going to order OEM bearings, and they are gonna destroy the budget.

                To give you an example of the price ranges here in Denmark, heres a little story:

                I've been bitching quite a while about my warped discs, especially because it happened almost instantaneously after they got replaced. So i decided to take it to a mechanic to have them milled. Something i would normally never do. The price for this was; 230 fucking dollars!
                Last edited by CB7Denmark; 09-09-2015, 06:44 PM. Reason: It was not.
                Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

                Comment


                  #83
                  thats not that bad that .010"/.012" thats actually perfect for a stock cam. but a little loose and noisy on a regrind. your cam is 222in/203ex on duration with about 3deg of overlap with a 110/105.5deg centerline. that would cause it to fall off hard up top. with some added duration to the exhaust that thing would pull. here is my old level 2 vs my custom regrind. notice how the bisimoto level 2 falls on its face after 6200ish and mine continues to pull. this is due to more duration on the exhaust. the f22a heads have terrible exhaust ports in stock form. to offset this i use more duration.

                  MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

                  Comment


                    #84
                    Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View Post
                    thats not that bad that .010"/.012" thats actually perfect for a stock cam. but a little loose and noisy on a regrind. your cam is 222in/203ex on duration with about 3deg of overlap with a 110/105.5deg centerline. that would cause it to fall off hard up top. with some added duration to the exhaust that thing would pull. here is my old level 2 vs my custom regrind. notice how the bisimoto level 2 falls on its face after 6200ish and mine continues to pull. this is due to more duration on the exhaust. the f22a heads have terrible exhaust ports in stock form. to offset this i use more duration.
                    I really like that curve, it pulls hard all the way to 7000 RPM, i have my fuel cut set @ 7100 RPM, that was what i expected for the Bisi stage 2 cam, based on what i read around the forum, maybe i expected too much of the lvl 2 cam. It could very well be the lack of a "real" header as well.

                    I'm really not sure what to do on the cam subject, raising compression obviously opens a door to the hotter cam options, however, i could take the current one and extend the exh. duration, but i feel like its a waste of potential compared to what is gonna happen with the bottom end.

                    There is no doubt that the cam will be the most expensive upgrade with this build either way.
                    I also thougth of the 282 Delta cam, even though its a generic option, i think it will match the compression nicely.

                    Gude is out of the question, i had a talk with him, and he forgot all about me three times, so i gave up on him, he is quite expensive as well.

                    With the new bore, displacement will get a slight bump, what it means for performance is hard to say, i really wanted to go with an F23A bottom end, but that car was barely sold here, so finding one will be pure and utter luck, and i have neither the time or patience for that, i like to get this done right now so this thing is killing next summer.

                    Displacement on 85mm bore and 95mm stroke: 2156ccm
                    85.5mm bore and 95mm stroke: 2182ccm

                    Thats an added 26ccm, probably not gonna do a whole lot more performance wise.
                    Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

                    Comment


                      #85
                      Update:

                      Parts starting to arrive for the Type-S build.





                      Mahle Gold Series 11.5 88.25mm pistons!



                      Also went to visit my machinist last weekend to have him look at the block.

                      He told me, that besides the current bore is really worn (300.000KM block) the Alusil itself and the bore is in good shape (Does it even make sense).

                      So he has no problem honing it to .25 mm which Honda allows for.


                      I also had a good talk with him about the known failures about running these pistons in these FRM sleeves, he told me (sounding very confident) that the failures that happens is due to improper P2W clearances, that causes the piston to slap and eventually fail, the piston should be able to run even without it's coating on it's skirts, which will eventually wear off.

                      That is very likely what causes the Mahles to fail, that and failure to use the right honing method for FRM.

                      This guy works daily with AMG and M sleeves (Which is also FRM) so I have a lot of trust invested in this guy.


                      Anyway, so I also got a good deal on balancing the crankshaft, a mere $360, so I will have that done as well.
                      The honing is about $400.


                      All i need now to have a running engine is:

                      A fresh Hone.
                      Re-balanced Crank.
                      All gaskets and bearings and seals.
                      Connecting Rods.
                      New timing belt kit and pumps.
                      New oil pump.
                      Liquids and oil filter(Oil etc)
                      Valves & Springs + retainers.
                      Head refurbished.

                      New TUNE.



                      I am guessing another 2 or 3 months, I'll have her firing right up!
                      Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

                      Comment


                        #86
                        Just ordered a Euro R intake manifold.

                        Found it on Ebay for $270 shipped, I figure it was a steal.

                        Came with everything, fuel rail, injectors, all sensors, throttle body, I am happy.
                        Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

                        Comment


                          #87
                          Did you find it stateside or over on your side of the pond? If it's over here, you should have it shipped to Rosko Racing and let them modify it for you.
                          My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                          Comment


                            #88
                            Originally posted by Jarrett View Post
                            Did you find it stateside or over on your side of the pond? If it's over here, you should have it shipped to Rosko Racing and let them modify it for you.
                            Hey Jarret.


                            I got the manifold from a eastern European country, so it won't be visiting Rosko Racing even though that would be pretty cool.
                            Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

                            Comment


                              #89
                              Christmas came early this month, and probably is gonna come early in November as well






                              Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

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