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Old 09-30-2018, 11:28 AM   #81
Jarrett
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Yeah, I've seen people run some pretty gnarly looking ones. If it was solid metal, it would lead to harmonics because of the imbalance. However, because of the hardened rubber, most of that is mitigated. Can you? Sure. Is it ideal? Probably not. Would a daily driver ever notice it? Probably not.
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Old 10-05-2018, 05:23 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by Jarrett View Post
Yeah, I've seen people run some pretty gnarly looking ones. If it was solid metal, it would lead to harmonics because of the imbalance. However, because of the hardened rubber, most of that is mitigated. Can you? Sure. Is it ideal? Probably not. Would a daily driver ever notice it? Probably not.
Ok thanks man. I decided to run my f22 crank pulley. I am reaching out to grumpy about belt sizing etc.

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Old 10-05-2018, 05:24 PM   #83
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clearly I am past my due date ( to be expected kinda since the help MIA ) but feel confident I am really close. I have alot of pics and updates to add in the next day or so..

stay tuned......

couple HUGE surprises!!!
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Old 10-05-2018, 07:10 PM   #84
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is there anyone on here running a f20b with an auto tranny?
What ECU are you running?
Did you convert from OBD2 to OBD1?
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Old 11-27-2018, 07:40 PM   #85
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Holidays and change in plans has this project stalled at the moment.

UPDATES!!!

4dr Motor out completely. Need clean engine bay and drop f20b back in thats ready

2dr . I am trying to get someone local to change the timing belt for me as I am just WAY to busy.....
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Old 07-16-2019, 11:25 AM   #86
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wow has it been WAAAYYYYY to long since I posted about this project.

My father-in-law was diagnosed with stage 4 brain cancer in early January this year so MY Entire life has taken the backseat to helping him beat this! He is doing great.

Back to this "project". I never wanted to use those words to describe this car but thats whats its turned into.

UPDATE!!

I have scheduled the drop in of my f20b for early next week. My hope is to be writing in this forum by next Friday 7/26 about how nice and fun it is to have gotten this ride back on the road. I then plan to write a post of what all I bought and installed on this car so far, plus a dyno tune and a HP/Tq sheet for review.

I may have a few questions pop up from the install and plan to ask them on this site after researching answers first of course.

research first then ask...
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Old 07-20-2019, 09:30 AM   #87
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Car was picked up about 20 mins ago on the way to shop for f20b install.
More to come next week.
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Old 07-30-2019, 11:09 AM   #88
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Sorry to hear about your father-in-law. Cancer is a terrible thing.

Did the external coil distributor ever come in? What are your plans for the wiring harness? If I were you, I'd have the mangled harness sent to wire-worx or Wirewhere there in Florida and have them replicate something that will plug into your factory shock tower plugs. They can also add a wideband connector, all of your VTEC/IAB wiring, and even change injector plugs if you'd like something better for future mods. Most of their harnesses go all the way back to ECU plugs, but I'm confident they would work with you. That would be the best way of correcting the cut wire issue with the distributor.
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Old 08-05-2019, 11:04 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrett View Post
Sorry to hear about your father-in-law. Cancer is a terrible thing.

Did the external coil distributor ever come in? What are your plans for the wiring harness? If I were you, I'd have the mangled harness sent to wire-worx or Wirewhere there in Florida and have them replicate something that will plug into your factory shock tower plugs. They can also add a wideband connector, all of your VTEC/IAB wiring, and even change injector plugs if you'd like something better for future mods. Most of their harnesses go all the way back to ECU plugs, but I'm confident they would work with you. That would be the best way of correcting the cut wire issue with the distributor.
Thanks for sharing concern for my father-in-law! He is doing better and lives with me now.
Also, thanks for asking about the wiring for the 2dr.

Update for 2dr: I sold the coupe before moving back to Orlando . I just didnt have the time and effort needed to complete it and bring it with me when I moved. I only have my original 4dr thats in the shop having the f20b dropped in.
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Old 08-05-2019, 10:07 PM   #90
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Gotcha. So your path to a swapped Accord is pretty straightforward now I guess. No more issues like chopped harness or whatever else was a problem when this thread was started?
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Old 08-07-2019, 11:43 AM   #91
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Gotcha. So your path to a swapped Accord is pretty straightforward now I guess. No more issues like chopped harness or whatever else was a problem when this thread was started?
Correct for the 2dr as thats the car that someone stole the distributor from and left wires everywhere cut...

4dr however, the shop called this morning asking me about my AEM fuel rail? They state the injectors are not lining up straight?
Anyone have any experience here and know what they mean? I bought the h22 AEM setup and injectors? I haven't been down there to look yet but Im sure they should get it figured out. I am trying to source a front and rear engine bracket that I screwed up and didnt pull off old motor. I was in a HUGE hurry but no excuse. DUMB.
Heading to junk yard to try and find one later today. They have some ideas that would work so we will get it figured out one way or another...
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Old 08-07-2019, 03:31 PM   #92
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I hope this shop knows what they're doing. Otherwise you're going to have a cobbled-together mess that they charge you for but won't want any part in later when it has issues.

An F20B is an OBD2 engine. That means the injectors, distributor and MAP have issues that need tending to in order to work in the CB chassis. All completely doable. Specific to the F20B (as well as H23A VTEC, H22A7/ Euro-R or even F23A) is an IACV issue that will require an adapter or a plenum change. As with any engine swap into these cars, your best results will be from reusing the factory engine harness and addressing any issues it has. That way, you know it plugs directly into your shock tower connectors and interfaces with your chassis harness correctly. Assuming that is the case here, the issues I mentioned before can be addressed as follows.

The injectors can be used without issue, but as they are high-impedance, you will need to eliminate the resistor box on the driver's shock tower under the hood. Cut the pigtail off at the chassis harness side. twist all wires together and flow solder onto the join. Slide adhesive-lined heatshrink over the soldered wires, then pull back and tie out of the way. This is how you would have to modify the chassis harness to use any newer injector like ID1050s, RDX, etc., and not specific to F20B injectors. The fuel rail is a separate deal with the F20B and H23A VTEC. The easiest way to solve it would be to find and purchase an H22A intake manifold P13 casting. This is on all H22A engines with the exception of the H22A7 and H22A Euro-R. This will have the 3 studs you need to mount the AEM fuel rail and bolt up to the head. I have no idea why Honda changed such a meaningless thing on these engines. The change in manifold will also rectify the 3-wire IACV issue as it will give you provisions to install the OEM F22A IACV.

The distributor can be used with an adapter harness, such as one from RyWire, or you can go buy a TD-59U distributor from a '92-'95 Prelude Si/Si VTEC. The latter option will plug directly into your OEM engine harness because the '92-'93 Accords used a SOHC version of the same distributor with an external coil.

The MAP can be done a couple of ways. You can leave the F20B MAP on top of the throttle body disconnected and plug in the OEM MAP inside the firewall black box, or you can snag the MAP plug from the F20B harness and extend the wires from the OEM MAP to the new throttle body MAP. Guides are available on this site to help you match wire colors.

The rear mount is an easy one. You want the rear mount and bracket from a '90-'97 Accord DX/LX 5-speed. The same bracket can be found on a '92-'96 Prelude 5-speed. Almost all aftermarket mounts are based around this bracket. If you don't care about upgrading to aftermarket mounts ever, then any '90-'97 Accord rear mount with a matching bracket will work.
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Old 08-08-2019, 12:26 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrett View Post
I hope this shop knows what they're doing. Otherwise you're going to have a cobbled-together mess that they charge you for but won't want any part in later when it has issues.

An F20B is an OBD2 engine. That means the injectors, distributor and MAP have issues that need tending to in order to work in the CB chassis. All completely doable. Specific to the F20B (as well as H23A VTEC, H22A7/ Euro-R or even F23A) is an IACV issue that will require an adapter or a plenum change. As with any engine swap into these cars, your best results will be from reusing the factory engine harness and addressing any issues it has. That way, you know it plugs directly into your shock tower connectors and interfaces with your chassis harness correctly. Assuming that is the case here, the issues I mentioned before can be addressed as follows.

The injectors can be used without issue, but as they are high-impedance, you will need to eliminate the resistor box on the driver's shock tower under the hood. Cut the pigtail off at the chassis harness side. twist all wires together and flow solder onto the join. Slide adhesive-lined heatshrink over the soldered wires, then pull back and tie out of the way. This is how you would have to modify the chassis harness to use any newer injector like ID1050s, RDX, etc., and not specific to F20B injectors. The fuel rail is a separate deal with the F20B and H23A VTEC. The easiest way to solve it would be to find and purchase an H22A intake manifold P13 casting. This is on all H22A engines with the exception of the H22A7 and H22A Euro-R. This will have the 3 studs you need to mount the AEM fuel rail and bolt up to the head. I have no idea why Honda changed such a meaningless thing on these engines. The change in manifold will also rectify the 3-wire IACV issue as it will give you provisions to install the OEM F22A IACV.

The distributor can be used with an adapter harness, such as one from RyWire, or you can go buy a TD-59U distributor from a '92-'95 Prelude Si/Si VTEC. The latter option will plug directly into your OEM engine harness because the '92-'93 Accords used a SOHC version of the same distributor with an external coil.

The MAP can be done a couple of ways. You can leave the F20B MAP on top of the throttle body disconnected and plug in the OEM MAP inside the firewall black box, or you can snag the MAP plug from the F20B harness and extend the wires from the OEM MAP to the new throttle body MAP. Guides are available on this site to help you match wire colors.

The rear mount is an easy one. You want the rear mount and bracket from a '90-'97 Accord DX/LX 5-speed. The same bracket can be found on a '92-'96 Prelude 5-speed. Almost all aftermarket mounts are based around this bracket. If you don't care about upgrading to aftermarket mounts ever, then any '90-'97 Accord rear mount with a matching bracket will work.
Thanks again for this help Jarrett

Injectors dont sit far enough down into AEM rail? They are suppose to be for h22a as I bought together but when I test fitted them they seemed very snug and I didnt force them all the way down? The shop took out the intake side grommets and they seem to fit better but of course would leak without gromment? I may have been sent the wrong ones? Have you heard of such?

Distributor: I purchased H22 OBD1 distrubtor- 31-17405 but also got Robert Burton Racing COP kit so all is needed is to use yellow wire ( power) and blue RPM wire from distro and should be good there? This seem correct?

Rear mount found and just have to pull.
Front bracket pulled and dropped off already.
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Old 08-08-2019, 01:40 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smac View Post
Injectors dont sit far enough down into AEM rail? They are suppose to be for h22a as I bought together but when I test fitted them they seemed very snug and I didnt force them all the way down? The shop took out the intake side grommets and they seem to fit better but of course would leak without gromment? I may have been sent the wrong ones? Have you heard of such?
If you're describing the problem I mentioned before, then it's because of this fuel rail's incompatibility with the studs on the intake manifold. Can you take a picture of what's wrong for verification?

Quote:
Originally Posted by smac View Post
Distributor: I purchased H22 OBD1 distrubtor- 31-17405 but also got Robert Burton Racing COP kit so all is needed is to use yellow wire ( power) and blue RPM wire from distro and should be good there? This seem correct?
I'm not familiar with which color wires are affected. But if it's anything like the TRI's kit, it will include a harness pinned with two additional leads that will replaced wires inside the OEM connectors at the distributor to get a cam angle signal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smac View Post
Rear mount found and just have to pull.
Front bracket pulled and dropped off already.
You don't need any different front mount at all. The OEM CB front mount will bolt right up to the F20B.
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Old 08-09-2019, 10:46 AM   #95
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I hope this shop knows what they're doing. Otherwise you're going to have a cobbled-together mess that they charge you for but won't want any part in later when it has issues.


WOW did you hit this nail right on the HEAD!! The shop gave up and called me to tell me they are not moving forward with my car?
Crap, now I am right back in the same spot as started practically. They did manage to get the motor and tranny bolted in at least... Now I need someone near Orlando to finish this job the RIGHT way! I am willing to pay anyone that knows what they are doing from this site to finish. I guess I can open a new thread in the regions forum and ask for help? Is this where I would do this?
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Old 08-09-2019, 11:31 AM   #96
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There's a pretty good chance it's not sitting level, too. The driver's side engine mount bracket bolted to the block needs to be swapped for one from a '92-'96 Prelude Si/Si VTEC. It's available from Honda for pretty cheap (11910-P13-000
). This bracket can be replaced with the engine in the car and the engine supported with a jack underneath.
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Old 08-09-2019, 12:17 PM   #97
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There's a pretty good chance it's not sitting level, too. The driver's side engine mount bracket bolted to the block needs to be swapped for one from a '92-'96 Prelude Si/Si VTEC. It's available from Honda for pretty cheap (11910-P13-000
). This bracket can be replaced with the engine in the car and the engine supported with a jack underneath.

I purchased this part 11910-P13-000 Jarrett and they installed it. I still need the back engine bracket ( number 11 attached link ) which I plan to grab from j yard later today hopefully. I hope I can install this without removing anything else etc.

https://parts.sonshonda.com/showAsse...rimLevel=24895

Last edited by smac; 08-09-2019 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 08-09-2019, 12:30 PM   #98
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What about getting help to finish this install? Where would I ask? Is it the regionals section? I also purchased a full h22a4 Intake manifold with rail and injectors.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/122856171351

Hopefully this makes things easier for me since I most likely will finishing this car by myself. I could/would pay for help.
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Old 08-09-2019, 01:27 PM   #99
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Yes, that intake will help matters greatly. Your IACV and fuel rail issues will be behind you.

Have you also purchased a header from a '92-'96 Prelude Si VTEC?

Yeah, I think the regional subforums would be best for that. But I don't know what type of traffic to expect.
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Old 08-09-2019, 01:35 PM   #100
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Yes, that intake will help matters greatly. Your IACV and fuel rail issues will be behind you.

Have you also purchased a header from a '92-'96 Prelude Si VTEC?
Ordered a complete DC header back exhaust ( ebay like ) that the shop installed to block but they left the downpipe and cat back disco while they were still working on car. I will have to finish bolting it up but all "should" line right up and be good togo.
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