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    Steering shimmy

    So for a while now I have noticed that my steering shimmies and shakes under braking, originally I thought this was due to rotors being warped since when coming to a stop the brakes "pulse" like warped rotors. During my time off around Christmas I decided to do a brake change. Once I got to where I can inspect the pads and both sides of the rotors I no longer believe its due to the front brakes, as there is plenty of pad left on both sides, as well as both sides of both rotors are smooth as glass. All four pads are at about the same wear point (which is less than 50% wear) so I know the calipers are not failing otherwise the pads would be wearing differently.

    As for the shimmy I would assume something in the steering might be ready to be replaced but I'm having a hard time finding play in steering system. The only thing I have found is one of the boots on the rack is split in half and looks to have been for a while now. so can I assume my steering rack is causing the problem?

    And as for the pulsing problem, if the rear drum brakes are going bad will they cause the pulse sensation in the brake system like warped rotors will?

    Thanks for the advice in advance!


    If at first you don't suceed, then skydiving is not for you.

    I try not to down talk anyone, when I read my old questions I realize I was an idiot too.

    #2
    Warped rotors will cause a front-end shake while driving. You can not just look at them to see if they are good. If it feels like the front-end shakes the steering wheel left and right while braking, then go get your rotors turned or replace them.

    If it feels like it is grabbing then letting go repeatedly while applying constant pressure, then the rears are warped. Replace/turn the drums.

    GL

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      #3
      Warped rotors imo. Get it up to 80 or so and brake. The effect should be magnified at higher speeds, indicating warped rotors. Our Pilot has warped front rotors currently and at about 90 mph on the highway you can feel the rotors in the steering wheel without braking, and it's much more pronounced once braking.
      MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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        #4
        unless you have a disc runout gauge you cant really tell
        get em machined and try again.
        sold! But here's my build thread for those interested.

        http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=206864

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          #5
          Warped rotors, blown shocks, and a few other suspension components can cause a shake when braking. Rotors are most likely, and definitely not a bad wear item to replace. While you do that, inspect your other components, and be prepared to change those as well. Any ball joint with a torn boot should be replaced right away.






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            #6
            Sorry I have not responded yet, it has been a hectic couple of days. I live in the south and everyone has been freaking out about the snow that we didn't get lol.
            Originally posted by oni_cb7 View Post
            If it feels like it is grabbing then letting go repeatedly while applying constant pressure, then the rears are warped. Replace/turn the drums.
            I didn't know drums could actually warp lol, I always figured it was just a disc brake thing. But the drums being bad would not surprise me at all.

            Originally posted by Rilas View Post
            Warped rotors imo. Get it up to 80 or so and brake. The effect should be magnified at higher speeds, indicating warped rotors. Our Pilot has warped front rotors currently and at about 90 mph on the highway you can feel the rotors in the steering wheel without braking, and it's much more pronounced once braking.
            Speed definatly does effect the shimmy, as well as the amount of pressure I put on the brakes. Also after I went to change them, and then didn't, the shimmy has started happening slightly even without touching the brakes.

            Originally posted by deevergote View Post
            Warped rotors, blown shocks, and a few other suspension components can cause a shake when braking. Rotors are most likely, and definitely not a bad wear item to replace. While you do that, inspect your other components, and be prepared to change those as well. Any ball joint with a torn boot should be replaced right away.
            I tried to check all the suspension I could think of while I was under the car looking at everything, the only thing I found was the ripped boot on the steering rack. Everything else seems to be in good condition. In the past (when I put my lowering springs on) I replaced all the bushings, ball joints, wheel bearings and outer tie rods. I know new parts can go bad though.

            I appreciate everyone's input, my original thought was the rotors had gotten warped or something, just when I saw that the pads had over half their life left in them my wallet started influencing me to look at other options lol. Looks like I'll be doing a brake job here soon, and probably still change the steering rack and tie-rods anyways, since I've been running looped lines on it since my h23a1 swap, since I didn't have the correct line / pump / bracket to make it work. But now I have the pump and bracket that came on the H22a so might as well put it to work lol. I'll let you know if the rotors fix my issues, and hopefully my drums can hold out just a little longer till I do a rotor conversion on the rear (which probably won't happen so I'll be rebuilding the drums soon too lol.)


            If at first you don't suceed, then skydiving is not for you.

            I try not to down talk anyone, when I read my old questions I realize I was an idiot too.

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