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Old 06-03-2011, 10:00 AM   #1
Chronuss
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Tried to jump start...burning smell...

Okay, so I'm an idiot and left my headlights on all night. Friend came over and we tried to jump start the CB. When the jumpers were connected, could get it to turn over but not enough. I turned off the ignition, walked around, and started to smell burning from the passenger side by the dash. Immediately disconnected the jumpers and it went away. Ran down to Wal-Mart, got my free battery replacement, popped it in, car started right up.

Here are my problems (this is an automatic):

1)Shifter is locked, have to use key to unluck shifter.
2)No power in D4, I think its trying to actually start in fourth gear.
3)If I start in 1, then go to 2, then D3, then D4, transmission will shift.

Took it to an old shop I use to work at, they think the transmission has gone. I really think my TCU got fried due to the burning smell from the passenger side. Can anyone confirm or deny or had any problems like this before?
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:10 AM   #2
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i think you crossed your jump cable (positive on negative)


check the fuse first under the hood and under the driver dash
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:25 AM   #3
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How come you don't unplug the tcm and open it up and just take a look to see if anythin looks fried.
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:05 AM   #4
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No, didn't cross the jumpers, and the fuses were the first thing I checked under the hood and by the kick panel on the driver's side.

I'm not too comfortable ripping up my own carpet, I'd rather have someone with more experience than me do it.

Some Googling found me the same symptoms and point to the TCU. I was just trying to pick everyone's brain or if anyone had had this happen to them.
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:22 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronuss View Post

I'm not too comfortable ripping up my own carpet, I'd rather have someone with more experience than me do it.
All you need for trim removal and carpet stuff is normal tools: usually just a phillips head screwdriver and either trim removal levers (made of nylon so they don't harm plastic trim pieces) or the super small sized pry bars at the hardware store (about 6" long), wrapped with masking or duct tape so they don't scratch or gouge plastic. Obviously, the trim removal tools are the better choice but both will work.

Last edited by batever; 06-03-2011 at 11:25 AM.
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronuss View Post
Some Googling found me the same symptoms and point to the TCU. I was just trying to pick everyone's brain or if anyone had had this happen to them.
If your tranny was fine before u tried to jump it then it is acting up then I would probably assume it is the TCU (which is located on the passenger side where u claim the burning smell was).
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I'm not too comfortable ripping up my own carpet, I'd rather have someone with more experience than me do it.
Why would u have to rip up your carpeting? The TCU is located there on the passenger side on the floor below the glovebox, it will be next to the ECU. All u have to do is pull the carpet up over there, after you're done it goes all back into place. Nothing will be ripped or pulled apart, its designed that way for easy access.
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All you need for trim removal and carpet stuff is normal tools: usually just a phillips head screwdriver and either trim removal levers (made of nylon so they don't harm plastic trim pieces) or the super small sized pry bars at the hardware store (about 6" long), wrapped with masking or duct tape so they don't scratch or gouge plastic. Obviously, the trim removal tools are the better choice but both will work.
If u are referring to removing the carpet to expose the TCU then all this is unnecessary.
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Old 06-03-2011, 01:02 PM   #7
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The trans was definitely fine before I killed my battery by leaving the headlights on. And, an electrical burning smell != to dying trans. I have to wait until tomorrow to pick up my car from the shop I left it at as I don't get home until after it closes.
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Old 06-03-2011, 01:41 PM   #8
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I had to replace the TCU in my ex-girlfriend's accord. It's pretty simple.
If you can jump-start a car, you can change the TCU. I got mine at a junkyard for like 30 dollars, I think.
Make sure you get the part from the same year. (I.E. 90-91 or 92-93)
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Old 06-03-2011, 01:46 PM   #9
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I had to replace the TCU in my ex-girlfriend's accord. It's pretty simple.
If you can jump-start a car, you can change the TCU. I got mine at a junkyard for like 30 dollars, I think.
Make sure you get the part from the same year. (I.E. 90-91 or 92-93)
Wow that's cheap...I've also seen threads on here that show how to replace the fried electrical parts for under 5 bucks
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Old 06-03-2011, 02:00 PM   #10
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Finding a yard around here with a 90-91 sitting in it are few and far between. My best bet would be eBay.
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Old 06-03-2011, 02:30 PM   #11
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Finding a yard around here with a 90-91 sitting in it are few and far between. My best bet would be eBay.
My yard had like 10 auto 90-91's. Only one of them still had the TCU. Good luck man.
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Old 06-03-2011, 04:08 PM   #12
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Damn, here in Denver u can't even count all of the CB's in the junkyards. Sorry to hear u might have difficulty finding one in West Virginia, PM me if your having problems cuz I can get them here all day long.
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Old 06-04-2011, 11:11 AM   #13
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Picked the Honda up from the shop, didn't charge me for trying to figure it out (they know I'm poor ). Parked it in the driveway, grabbed the socket wrench with a deep well 10mm and went to work. Twenty minutes later after fighting the carpet back, scraping two knuckles against the steel plate, and trying to fit my big monkey hands in an itty bitty space to dislodge the connectors, here is my TCU from my CB:



New transmission my arse. Hopped on eBay, found and ordered used TCU, shipped = $55. Like I said, electrical burning smell != transmission.
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Old 06-04-2011, 12:13 PM   #14
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Yeah of course the shop is gonna say u need a new tranny (money for them). Thats a good look, glad u figured it out. And yeah removing that plate to get to the TCU/ECU sometimes can be a bitch, not to mention unplugging the damn thing. Its all good tho, you'll be up and out again in no time.
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Old 06-04-2011, 01:43 PM   #15
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I just don't understand why it did that. I've gotten and given jumps before with the CB. Not exactly sure why it happened. Guess the moons of Jupiter and the sun were aligned just right last saturday.
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Old 06-04-2011, 01:54 PM   #16
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Yeah that is strange. And it really is annoying that u have no idea what caused that. Whats also a problem is that now u are probably going to be very hesitant to try to jump your car again (that is until u figure out what the hell happened). Hopefully u don't ever leave your lights on anymore!
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Old 06-04-2011, 03:23 PM   #17
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I just did a quick search. The car that our friend has is a 2004 Camry...it has an electronic ignition. This may be what cause my board to fry.
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Old 06-04-2011, 05:43 PM   #18
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I don't know specifically why the TCU would be subject to that kind of electrical burnout. But if you suspect the jumpstart procedure, one thing you can do in the future is make sure the "donor" car is already started before you hook up the cables to your car. (or complete the circuit) That way the donor car has time to stabilize voltage before sending it to your car.

Now, the burning out on the board is a little weird because mere voltage spikes shouldn't cause that. it's the amount of current going through that part of the board that causes burnout. I don't see how a minor voltage spike could cause that level of physical overload (total current overload) to blacken the board.( I do see one way it could theoretically do so, having to do with the distance between leads on the board and the voltage involved creating a temporary plasma connection between two normally unrelated leads (plasma has extremely low electrical resistance so would draw excessive current into the components in that case)--but again, this is just me speculating.) [When you see a spark when connecting an electrical circuit, you are seeing air that has been transformed into the plasma state, whichh occurs when the voltage in partial/broken circuit exceeds the spark air gap between the current-carrying and ground leads in question--the current is jumping through the air and transforming it into plasma, and completing the circuit at the same time.]

More likely scenario: One thing that could cause current overload in an electronic subcircuit on the board is a failed (weakened, then overloaded) capacitor in the board or a failed resistor upstream of the area that burned. The capacitors and resistors are placed to moderate/control the amount of current flowing through the subcircuit, tytpically to protect components such as diodes or transistors, which are very a current sensitive. After they fail, the subcircuit would draw excess current for the wiring there and overheat either the wiring or the components themselves. Hence the burning. The charging voltage could have been the straw that broke the camel's back here.


No expert on the TCU or even the car's electrical system here, I'm just offering my suspicions and thoughts.

If you REALLY want to protect your car's electronics when jumping your car, disconnect your negative battery clamp and run the cables between your positive and negative battery poles to the donor car's positive battery pole and his engine block. This will give a very fast (some would say excessively fast) charge to your battery, at risk of building up gas pressure within the batter. So do this for maybe 5 minutes tops and stay some distance from the recharging battery, preferably out of line of sight or at least with your back to it.

Then, after you have disconnected the other car from the circuit, with the ignition in the off position, reconnect the negative battery clamp on your car. It will now be safe (from the inside of your car) to complete the circuit at the ignition without danger of sparking a hydrogen explosion at the battery.

Last edited by batever; 06-06-2011 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 06-04-2011, 06:04 PM   #19
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Okay, so I'm an idiot and left my headlights on all night. Friend came over and we tried to jump start the CB.

if you don't have a battery charger, you can rig up a cheap (pretty much free) and rudimentary home trickle charger by taking a simple DC transformer (like for an old piece of electronics equipment that you don't use anymore) and running the negative DC output lead to the negative of the battery and the positive to the positive with alligator clips.
(Run it direct to your battery after undoing the negative clamp on the battery to isolate the circuit from your car.) Then , after your connections are made, plug the transformer into an extension cord and the extension cord into a distant wall circuit.

Anything that puts out 12V and 1 amp or 2 amps (1000-2000milliamps) or so would be adequate.


Then wait about an hour or two ( putting between one and two, or between two and four, extra amps into the battery) and give the car a try. If it doesn't work, give it another couple of hours. Watch the battery for bulging. (won't happen with this charge rate, but still).


Always disconnect the charging circuit at the farthest point possible from the car, and preferably with your back turned to the battery.

Last edited by batever; 06-04-2011 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 06-06-2011, 07:54 AM   #20
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All I can say, old battery to Wall-Mart + 3 year replacement = new battery for me.
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