This is what my A/C is reading.

[GTRON]

https://goo.gl/photos/VSh5s1jsmwDQZ6SF7

I did everything according (no pun intended) to this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80jSH8VQZms

From what I caught, I just need refrigerant?

[s2cmpugh]

Possibly yes, but when the low side shows a vacuum while the compressor is running, and the high side shows pressure it typically means a clogged expansion valve.

Are you using R134a or is the system still on R12?

[GTRON]

Possibly yes, but when the low side shows a vacuum while the compressor is running, and the high side shows pressure it typically means a clogged expansion valve.

Are you using R134a or is the system still on R12?

Original R12. Would a clogged expansion valve make a weird hissing noise in the cabin?

[jxiong12]

Have you ever serviced it before? Just wondering what you've done to it before. It does seem low. Was it ok before?

[masospaghetti]

Definitely something wrong there, should not have vacuum on one side while pressure on the other. My $$ is a bad expansion valve like already said.

But it does look like you're low on refrigerant too.

[GTRON]

Have you ever serviced it before? Just wondering what you've done to it before. It does seem low. Was it ok before?

I've had the car for 6-8months, A/C has never worked. I doubt it has been serviced before.

[GTRON]

Definitely something wrong there, should not have vacuum on one side while pressure on the other. My $$ is a bad expansion valve like already said.

But it does look like you're low on refrigerant too.

How much of a job is it to replace that?

[Rilas]

Well the crappy part is to replace it you have to break your system open. Thus evacuating all the R12 that is left in the system. Therefore forcing you to rip out the entire system and convert it. Usually this is why the conversion is usually just the way to go. Because until you fill your system with R12 you can't tell what caused it to fail in the first place. Leaky seals, bad valves, bad compressor, hard lines with a pinhole in them.

So the next crappy bit of news. To replace the expansion valve you have to take out the air mix motor, and possibly the dashboard. But yet again you have to open the system so in reality you end up taking out the evaporator housing anyway.

You can refer to this diagram Evaporator Unit.

So basically if anything is wrong with the system it usually needs to be opened up, and once that happens, if you want A/C it needs to be converted. I know it sucks but just the way things are.

[jxiong12]

Yeah, the whole job is tedious but not difficult. You have to take off the glove compartment and open up the evaporator core housing. The expansion valve is in there. You'd have to take off the hi and low ac metal lines going inside the cabin on the passenger side from the engine bay. This'll mean the system will open and you'd lose everything. Replace all orings you see. I was told to replace all black orings with green ones. You'd find them at like autozone. A retrofit kit.

[jxiong12]

That is, if you want to convert over to r134a. Which I highly recommend. I went through the same and realized though its a little work, converting over will be best.

[masospaghetti]

How much of a job is it to replace that?

It varies a lot on how the dashboard is put together, some cars require dash removal, I *think* these Hondas can be serviced just by removing the glovebox . But you will have to remove the evaporator which involves a loss of all refrigerant.

Don't be scared about losing the R-12 though. Your system doesn't work the way it is, and R-134a works well enough. It's not quite as cold as R-12 but it keeps me cool in southeastern summers (very hot and humid). And again, a retrofit is really not much extra work or expense, just replace o-rings that have been disturbed, replace the drier, shoot in some oil and refrigerant, I don't know if you can sell that can of R-12? It's probably worth good money.

[GTRON]

It varies a lot on how the dashboard is put together, some cars require dash removal, I *think* these Hondas can be serviced just by removing the glovebox . But you will have to remove the evaporator which involves a loss of all refrigerant.

Don't be scared about losing the R-12 though. Your system doesn't work the way it is, and R-134a works well enough. It's not quite as cold as R-12 but it keeps me cool in southeastern summers (very hot and humid). And again, a retrofit is really not much extra work or expense, just replace o-rings that have been disturbed, replace the drier, shoot in some oil and refrigerant, I don't know if you can sell that can of R-12? It's probably worth good money.

Ok, that doesn't sound so bad.. Except I'll need to buy a $100 vacuum pump, as well as the retrofit stuff.

I looked through this tutorial http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=165508, but that seems really extreme. What do I need to replace (obviously besides the expansion valve, and O-Rings) for my car to run r134a?
I don't want to do a overhaul of my A/C system, I just need it to last a couple years honestly. Not that I'm against doing things the right way, It's just that my car isn't worth putting a ton of time and money into.

[GTRON]

Also, can I use my A/C manifold for r134a? It seems to be made for R12?

[oyajicool]

A/C gauge set made for R12 does not work on R134 system.
You need to purchase R134 retrofit kit (the second photo of the link you posted).

[GTRON]

A/C gauge set made for R12 does not work on R134 system.
You need to purchase R134 retrofit kit (the second photo of the link you posted).

Dang it, I just bought that for nothing then. Is there a specific kit for our cars?

Thanks!