Beans: 1997 Accord Coupe LX

[Chrisnick]

Got the 225/45/16 Toyo R1R's installed.... holy guacamole what a difference those made. Rides better, quicker reacting, and ZERO sidewall squirm. They just grip and go. Love these tires. Gained about -2 degrees of camber up front and +1 degree of caster with the DA control arms, as well. Right under -3 degrees of front camber and about +4 degrees of caster. Feels so much better than before, no tracking issues, and the added caster makes it weight up really nicely just off center. Seems like straight line stability has improved as well. Adjusted the rear coilovers to sit at 13" as well, it's stunning how well the shocks can handle this heavy of a spring. Just soaks potholes and road imperfections right up, and no extra rebounding going on over bigger bumps.

[Chrisnick]

Couple little updates:

New, rust free driver door. Has a pinstripe I have to remove and the door needs cleaned up. Also has a nasty clearcoat failure right above the door handle, but it's not rusty, the window motor works and has auto down(yay!), as well as the lock doesn't sound like it's going to explode(also yay!). I'll chalk that up as a win. Also installed leather door panels, my LX ones were getting pretty beat and the driver side was worn out on the arm rest.

Got a driver fender off the same car at the junkyard and let my buddy who details on the side clean it up. Looks and feels near new. I'll be installing that after winter when I get the door re-cleared and the rest of the car detailed. I'll deal with my nasty dented up one until then.

Paid $75 for the door, panels, fender, fender liners, and some other misc odds and end's at a local pick-n-pull over labor day weekend for a fill a wheelbarrow for $75 sale. I should've grabbed the front and rear bumpers, as well as the leather backseats and rear panels. It was hot. I don't like being hot.

Put my OEM Prelude intake back on. Had to slice the intake tube where it attached to the TB to get it to fit because the H23A VTEC TB is HUGE. I think I like the sound better, and it feels like it has more midrange with maybe a little more dropoff up top compared to the V-stack intake. Have the V-stack intake up for sale, but may keep it for something else.

Picked this up for next to nothing:




Was going to modify it to work, but I threw it up for sale since no matter what I sell it for will pretty much be profit.... and something else is brewing.

Car crossed 230K miles the other day, too! Bilstein/eBay combo still rides great, the added camber and caster are very welcome improvements, as are the R1R's. I don't know why I didn't go this direction in the first place.

Here's how the 225/45/16 R1R's fit with the camber. Pictures taken with potato.





Hi Dad.




This thing needs paint so bad. Whole driver side rocker and corner is rotted to about halfway down the door. So much better on the driver side without the rust on the door though. Now I just have to deal with how damn ugly it is. At least it's not as ugly as Corwin's pile.

[Chrisnick]

Discussion time!

With winter approaching, and my focus turning from cars to renovating a house I'm renting(part of my dirt cheap rental agreement), I won't be doing much to the car, but will be able to save up some cash. That being said, here's the plan set out for purchases I hope to accumulate by spring:

Keep in mind I'm a total cheapass and if it works, it works. The girl has the dance moves down, she just needs some more speed. I'm not factoring in labor because I can easily do everything myself.

1. Transmission, our first discussion topic. I have a couple different options here. It's going to happen no matter what.
-A: M-factory diff, Synchrotech Carbon rebuild kit. Roughly $1000. Kick ass diff, unbreakable synchros, basically brand new. Long gears.
-B: M2Y4, M-factory diff, Synchrotech Carbon rebuild kit. Roughly $1500. Same as above except with shorter gears.
-C: T2T4, toss it in the car. OEM diff, which probably doesn't perform as well as the M-F diff. Similar gears to the M2Y4. $800
Honestly, I beat the crap out of the trans. Powershift EVERYWHERE is my motto. 3rd gear is getting a bit crunchy after 3 years of abuse so somethings gotta happen. I'd love to have shorter gears that the M2Y4 or T2T4 provides, yet being able to keep revs down on the freeway with the current Wagon P2A5 is nice. If I had the ability to let the car sit for a week or so to do the M2Y4, P2A5 5th, and rebuilt with the carbon synchros/m-f diff, that'd be ideal. It's just not going to happen with my availablity. T2T4 would be the easiest option, but strength has me a bit worried. I don't want to do this job twice.

2. Clutch/Flywheel. Not sure where to go with this one as it's a bit dependent on the power I plan to make. Massive overkill is fine with me, but I want a full disc, LARGE torque holding capacity, and a sprung face for ease of daily driving. Lets just assume I plan to make 300+ wheel torque down the line. I've never had anything other than an OEM spec clutch/flywheel in any of my cars, and I've never had one die on me, surprisingly.

3. Mounts: F20B Innovative mounts. No discussion there.

4. Traction bar: Innovative. Easy.

5. Engine. Here's where things get a bit muddy, especially when factoring in transmission options.
-A(part 1): F23A1, current mods, plus gutted/ported lower intake manifold, PLM 4-2-1 style header, adjustable cam gear, tuned to make the most power possible. Basically, see how fast I can go with the F23A1 without opening it up. With a short geared trans, a clutch that can hold the power, and better traction out of the hole, there's no doubt in my mind it's full-weight capable of a low 14-second 1/4 mile time. Pretty fun and quick around town, it'd be unique, and for the most part, uncharted territory, other than what AFAccord already did. I'm hoping to improve on what he did. Excellent torque and driability. Almost zero downtime aside from my regularly scheduled days off. Would still allow me to play in FSP next year with a built P2A5, all the other options would immediately land me in SMF.
Probably another $1000 onto where I'm at now
$2000 ontop of what I have with a T2T4/P2A5 built.
$2500 ontop with a built M2Y4.
(part 2): F23A1+boost: Already compiling some parts for this, it would happen after I do part 1, after next summer, when I can put the car up as I'll have my dad's truck by that point. Over 250whp/tq is the goal, driving as well as possible, without risk to the otherwise stock engine. Never really had a boosted car, could be fun, could be scary. Fuel system, fabrication, lots of changes, not costly, just laborious.
Probably another $1000 ontop of A part 1.
$2000 with a P2A5 built.
-B: H23A VTEC. I already have a P28, I already have an H-series header. Making it OBD2a isn't terribly difficult, but OBD1 is easier. Easily capable of the low 14's I'd like to have as a daily, decent torque from the 95mm stroke, and OEM reliablity. Gut the intake manifold for improved power with tuning. Seems like the easy way out, just some parts swapping, bolt it in, make good power. About the middle of the pack for peak power/midrage tq between the three options. Probably about $1000 total investment.
$2000 or so with a T2T4.
$2500 with an M2Y4 built.
-C: H22A Euro-R complete drop out: Great peak power, best OEM cams, best OEM intake manifold, already has LSD trans, aggressive gears, etc. About the same difficultly as the H23A VTEC, probably a little faster in the 1/4 mile, maybe a bit more of a pain to daily considering the torque advantage a tuned F23A1 and H23AV both have. 8K revs would be stupid fun though. Best peak power, maybe a little bit of midrange tq to give up. Drop it in as a unit over a weekend. Ultimate N/A goodness, if a little "blah" because it'd be nearly all OEM. Basically the same crap as a US H22A1/A4 swap.
$3000 all said and done, easily, no need for a built trans.
-D: F20B drop out. The 'cheap' DOHC option. Nothing really bad to say, lots of revs, lots of fun, least torque of the bunch. Gut plenum and tune for max power. Not quite as underdog as the F23A1. Ability to stroke to 2.3L in the future with F23A1 rods/crank. Not the best for parts availablity in the US.
$2000 all said and done, also no need for a built trans.

Notes:
- No matter what, I'd be spending about $2000-$3000 to get wherever.
- F23A1 route will eventually make the most power and allow me to play around with parts experimenting over the course of the upcoming year.
- H23A-V, H22A-S, F20B will have to be done in a weekend, probably around late spring/early summer. 100% prepped and ready to drop into the car, replacing any and all parts necessary for maintenance.
- The importer I'd go through is fairly local, has an excellent history, will allow me my pick, and would allow me to inspect whatever I choose to ensure I'm getting something in good condition.
- I know I could easily put together a very capable H22A1/A4 and drop it in, but by the time I add cams, pistons, machining, assembly, etc, it easily eclipses the cost of the other options, and who knows how long it'll stay together. I like OEM stuff, it doesn't break because I(or someone "better" than me) put it together incorrectly. I don't doubt my ability to do things right, especially the first time, but I do doubt my patience.
- Same goes for a 'regular' H22A1/H4 swap. I'd still be spending about $2000 all said and done, higher mileage, questionable maintenance history, etc. Why not go with the other options?
- H-series with boost is out of the question.

6. Exhaust. 3", Vibrant ultra quiet resonator and Magnaflow muffler.

Discuss.

[MrTShoff]

Discussion time!

With winter approaching, and my focus turning from cars to renovating a house I'm renting(part of my dirt cheap rental agreement), I won't be doing much to the car, but will be able to save up some cash. That being said, here's the plan set out for purchases I hope to accumulate by spring:

Keep in mind I'm a total cheapass and if it works, it works. The girl has the dance moves down, she just needs some more speed. I'm not factoring in labor because I can easily do everything myself.

1. Transmission, our first discussion topic. I have a couple different options here. It's going to happen no matter what.
-A: M-factory diff, Synchrotech Carbon rebuild kit. Roughly $1000. Kick ass diff, unbreakable synchros, basically brand new. Long gears.
-B: M2Y4, M-factory diff, Synchrotech Carbon rebuild kit. Roughly $1500. Same as above except with shorter gears.
-C: T2T4, toss it in the car. OEM diff, which probably doesn't perform as well as the M-F diff. Similar gears to the M2Y4. $800
Honestly, I beat the crap out of the trans. Powershift EVERYWHERE is my motto. 3rd gear is getting a bit crunchy after 3 years of abuse so somethings gotta happen. I'd love to have shorter gears that the M2Y4 or T2T4 provides, yet being able to keep revs down on the freeway with the current Wagon P2A5 is nice. If I had the ability to let the car sit for a week or so to do the M2Y4, P2A5 5th, and rebuilt with the carbon synchros/m-f diff, that'd be ideal. It's just not going to happen with my availablity. T2T4 would be the easiest option, but strength has me a bit worried. I don't want to do this job twice.

2. Clutch/Flywheel. Not sure where to go with this one as it's a bit dependent on the power I plan to make. Massive overkill is fine with me, but I want a full disc, LARGE torque holding capacity, and a sprung face for ease of daily driving. Lets just assume I plan to make 300+ wheel torque down the line. I've never had anything other than an OEM spec clutch/flywheel in any of my cars, and I've never had one die on me, surprisingly.

3. Mounts: F20B Innovative mounts. No discussion there.

4. Traction bar: Innovative. Easy.

5. Engine. Here's where things get a bit muddy, especially when factoring in transmission options.
-A(part 1): F23A1, current mods, plus gutted/ported lower intake manifold, PLM 4-2-1 style header, adjustable cam gear, tuned to make the most power possible. Basically, see how fast I can go with the F23A1 without opening it up. With a short geared trans, a clutch that can hold the power, and better traction out of the hole, there's no doubt in my mind it's full-weight capable of a low 14-second 1/4 mile time. Pretty fun and quick around town, it'd be unique, and for the most part, uncharted territory, other than what AFAccord already did. I'm hoping to improve on what he did. Excellent torque and driability. Almost zero downtime aside from my regularly scheduled days off. Would still allow me to play in FSP next year with a built P2A5, all the other options would immediately land me in SMF.
Probably another $1000 onto where I'm at now
$2000 ontop of what I have with a T2T4/P2A5 built.
$2500 ontop with a built M2Y4.
(part 2): F23A1+boost: Already compiling some parts for this, it would happen after I do part 1, after next summer, when I can put the car up as I'll have my dad's truck by that point. Over 250whp/tq is the goal, driving as well as possible, without risk to the otherwise stock engine. Never really had a boosted car, could be fun, could be scary. Fuel system, fabrication, lots of changes, not costly, just laborious.
Probably another $1000 ontop of A part 1.
$2000 with a P2A5 built.
-B: H23A VTEC. I already have a P28, I already have an H-series header. Making it OBD2a isn't terribly difficult, but OBD1 is easier. Easily capable of the low 14's I'd like to have as a daily, decent torque from the 95mm stroke, and OEM reliablity. Gut the intake manifold for improved power with tuning. Seems like the easy way out, just some parts swapping, bolt it in, make good power. About the middle of the pack for peak power/midrage tq between the three options. Probably about $1000 total investment.
$2000 or so with a T2T4.
$2500 with an M2Y4 built.
-C: H22A Euro-R complete drop out: Great peak power, best OEM cams, best OEM intake manifold, already has LSD trans, aggressive gears, etc. About the same difficultly as the H23A VTEC, probably a little faster in the 1/4 mile, maybe a bit more of a pain to daily considering the torque advantage a tuned F23A1 and H23AV both have. 8K revs would be stupid fun though. Best peak power, maybe a little bit of midrange tq to give up. Drop it in as a unit over a weekend. Ultimate N/A goodness, if a little "blah" because it'd be nearly all OEM. Basically the same crap as a US H22A1/A4 swap.
$3000 all said and done, easily, no need for a built trans.
-D: F20B drop out. The 'cheap' DOHC option. Nothing really bad to say, lots of revs, lots of fun, least torque of the bunch. Gut plenum and tune for max power. Not quite as underdog as the F23A1. Ability to stroke to 2.3L in the future with F23A1 rods/crank. Not the best for parts availablity in the US.
$2000 all said and done, also no need for a built trans.

Notes:
- No matter what, I'd be spending about $2000-$3000 to get wherever.
- F23A1 route will eventually make the most power and allow me to play around with parts experimenting over the course of the upcoming year.
- H23A-V, H22A-S, F20B will have to be done in a weekend, probably around late spring/early summer. 100% prepped and ready to drop into the car, replacing any and all parts necessary for maintenance.
- The importer I'd go through is fairly local, has an excellent history, will allow me my pick, and would allow me to inspect whatever I choose to ensure I'm getting something in good condition.
- I know I could easily put together a very capable H22A1/A4 and drop it in, but by the time I add cams, pistons, machining, assembly, etc, it easily eclipses the cost of the other options, and who knows how long it'll stay together. I like OEM stuff, it doesn't break because I(or someone "better" than me) put it together incorrectly. I don't doubt my ability to do things right, especially the first time, but I do doubt my patience.
- Same goes for a 'regular' H22A1/H4 swap. I'd still be spending about $2000 all said and done, higher mileage, questionable maintenance history, etc. Why not go with the other options?
- H-series with boost is out of the question.

6. Exhaust. 3", Vibrant ultra quiet resonator and Magnaflow muffler.

Discuss.

If you can actually get the complete euro r drop out thats the route id go and am planning to go once i get another cb. If you dont want to mess with cams and such in an h22 which is fairly basic I would stay away from boost until you are confident you can tackle it. Remember that while 8k is fun and all its pretty well known the transmissions do not like to put up with that very long without new internals on built cars so if more power will still be the plan you would still want to build the trans. Theres nothing really bad about the oem diffs imo though the m-factory will be more aggressive the oem ones arent incompetent at all. Overall you're doing everything right imo. Its good to stop and consider everything. Is k series out of the question?

[Chrisnick]

Deciding to stick with the F23 for now.

Put on 1G CL mirrors, were originally red, just spray bombed them gloss black with krylon fusion. $40 invested.

Picked up a set of 18x8 +50 Racing Hart Type-C's that need refinished for crazy cheap. $200







Bought a set of winter wheels/tires, going on in the morning. 15" 6th gen 6-spokes and 195/65/15 General Altimax Arctics for $300


Bought some Russels stainless steel braided brake lines for $40.

Bought some 205/55/16 BFG R1 R-compunds for $50, have 5 runs on them.




Also acquired a tubular T3 flanged manifold(which is already sold), a near perfect shape "60 Trim" Garrett T3 turbo from an 86-88 Thundebird Turbocoupe Manual, and a passenger side black/grey Tenzo R seat with a Corbeau bracket. Scrounged around a couple friend's garages for the inlet and outlet pieces for the compressor housing before deciding that N/A is just more fun/reliable and put the turbo/manifold up for sale. Manifold is gone, Turbo's just sitting in the garage. The Tenzo R seat needs cleaned, the bracket needs modified to work for the driver side. I really don't care that it's not a crazy name brand seat or some other BS, I make crap work. First thing I did before even CLEANING it was take it apart. Since these things were made for fat guys, I stuffed some high density foam I scavenged from the garbage at work between the frame and bolsters, then zip tied it all back together. Fits skinny JDM hipster kids now. Perfect. Hopefully it doesn't make my ass go numb or back hurt over the course of a two hour drive, and if it does, I'll turn it into an office chair or something. How much did I pay for such fine merchandise? $50..... For all of it. Well, technically something like -$40 since I had to buy my friend a couple sausage and egg mcmuffins and selling the turbo manifold. Whatever.

Winter 2016 plans:
If I don't burn the car to the ground or sell it....

Power:
Install cam gear
Finish porting spare F23 intake manifold
2.5" exhaust
Chop this PLM H2B header up and make it fit
Re-do the fuel system, bigger injectors
Tune for E85, try to hit 200whp without a cam swap

Chassis/Transmission:
T2W4 Trans
Exedy Stage 1 clutch
New slave/master with new hard line and dampener delete
Lightened flywheel
Innovative mounts
Innovative traction bar

Suspension:
Maybe swap to a taller, softer spring in the rear of the car. Thinking QA1 high-travel 450lbs 9" tall.
Front FFC tophats
Maybe go to a 600lb QA1 high travel front spring 8" tall.
Otherwise... the car is pretty sorted as it is.

Brakes:
Install braided lines
Put decent fluid in it
If that doesn't fix the initial soft pedal, it'll get a larger EX master cylinder
Maybe try to stuff a larger rotor up front

Wheels:
16x6.5 5-spoke 02-04 RSX wheels for the 205/55/16 BFG R1's I just picked up
16x8 +30 R32 GTR wheels for the 225/45/16 Toyo R1R's
Stare at my 18x8 +50 Racing Hart Type-C's some more, maybe start refinishing them

Misc
5-lug it. Oddy front, Prelude rear, CRV rear drums.(Drums foh lyfe!)
Actually get it detailed. Doubt I'll be able to fix the rust and paint it this year.
Clean the Tenzo R seat, modify the mount bracket it came with and get it mounted.
Tint? Tinted Turn signals and bumper lights? I like the blacked out look, but not the "VHT Nightshade everything!" look.
Spend an afternoon deleting all the Evap/EGR BS.

If all else fails, burn it. Can't believe I'll actually dump this much money into this turd, but I'm already this deep into it, so F it.

Last "pretty" picture before winter mode. CL mirrors weren't installed at this time.

[Chrisnick]

Dirt bag winter mode engaged. Pulled the R1R's/TSW's off and threw the general altimax arctics on. Ride height raised to 14.25" hub center to fender for winter.


PSA: If you're cold, they're cold, keep your summer tires inside.

[Chrisnick]

Got two more wheels to match my fronts, a Legend Type-II Coupe lip, a couple cold air intake tubes, a big ass K&N and......



RL/Oddy touring intake manifold



J32A2 heads and lower runners(in toolbox)

edo:

$150 total. Now I need to figure out what I'm going to put it in. Decided to find something else to build and this will stay a beater/daily. Still going to port the intake, replace the header with the modified PLM, 2.5" exhaust, retune, T2W4/Exedy stage 1, mounts, and throw on the RH's for summer. After that, it's done.

...May have a lead on a fairly clean 6th gen EX-L V6 Coupe for less than what I have into my TSW/R1R combo. Silver/black leather combo. I have a soft spot for 6th V6 Coupes, this is my '98 EX-L V6 circa 2001/2002:

[Chrisnick]

So this happened:



Two different B18C1 powered cars with bolt ons/basemaps made 140-145whp/115-120whtq on the same dyno, similar conditions. My car door bangs with both of them.

[Jarrett]

Have you thought about getting an Acura 3.2CL-S in 6-speed, instead? I owned a 2002 Accord EX V6 coupe before and once I get my first CLS6, I gave it to my parents. It's the same car, in a sense, but everything is much nicer. I could list the differences you'll notice in the first 5 minutes of driving one. The only thing I'm not completely a fan of are the looks. It has more curves than I would prefer and the front seems a little too narrow. Still, it's a much better starting point than the Accord V6 from a performance standpoint. The transmission in that Accord is awful.

[Chrisnick]

I've definitely been looking. I may buy a wrecked one for the swap itself, I honestly think even the 6th gen accord is too heavy. A cb7 would be awesome, they're just getting so hard to find in decent shape. I've had a 4th, 5th, and 6th gen accord already, so my heart would be in any of those three chassis. The cl is wicked nice though.

[Chrisnick]

Finally an update

Got the lips in from Corwin finally.





Did a quick assembly/fitment test.

Rear fitment




Front:




All four:

[Chrisnick]

More:

Found out trailing arm bushings are wasted:



New 2.5" exhaust on(pictures pre paint):





RMR front lip. It's so close to fitting.

[Chrisnick]

List revisions:
-Bought a pair of generic 5mm and a pair of H&R 10mm hubcentric spacers. RECEIVED
-Bought a set of 2" lips for the Racing harts that CORWIN NEEDS TO SHIP. Wheels will be 18x9 +37ish when done. RECEIVED
-Bought new rear hubs. RECEIVED
-Bought a full set of 16 ARP extended wheel studs. RECEIVED
-Bought a 2" U bend to remake a lower header. Still need a 2"to 2.5" merge collector.
-Bought a 2.5" vibrant ultra quiet resonator and stealth muffler with some piping and a new flex pipe. Need a couple 90's and 45's now to finish exhaust. INSTALLED
-Bought an exedy stage 1 clutch from my friend who works at exedy. Got a helluva deal on it. RECEIVED
- Bought an M2F4 that has a pop out on 2nd gear for next to norhing, gonna tear it down and find out what's wrong. May stick a diff in it if I can save more. Found out 2nd and 4th gear synchro springs were GONE. Non-existent. Ordered and received new springs from Synchrotech and some seals/washers from Honda
-Found a super rare RMR Lancer lip at the junkyard I'm going to hack up and make work. Its pretty close to fitting as is, needs a little modifying to work. Still haven't played with this, but I did put on a 96-97 lip again after smashing the 94-95 pretty hard on a parking block

Needs:
- getting faced powdercoated for $100 through a buddy Dropping these off Friday
- pulling a pair of 98 2.3 cl hubs tomorrow Is it tomorrow yet? lol
- intake still needs ported... Talking to rosko about this so that option may open up for other f23 manifold people. Getting this ported by a local engine builder/machinist for $80. Long story short... this guy knows his crap. Will have flow bench numbers as well.
- lips need retouched a hair, not bad though May do this after I get the faces back. I'll be pretty eager to install them. Just been too cold out in the garage to do anything with them.
- roll fenders Gotta run over to my friend's to steal his
- going to run a 255/35/18 front and 225/40/18 rear combo, gotta decide which tire to run. Waiting on spring sales and rebates to hit. Decided to go with the newly released Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 in 225/40/18. I really wanted to stick a 255 on the front, but they won't be out until mid summer. I may buy a pair then. FYI, the FFI500 is just a rebrand of the already available in other markets Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003. The Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 is a two generation newer model that replaces the RE002(which we never got in North America), which replaced the RE001(which is the RE760 in this market). The RE760 competed very, very well with the BFGoodrich G-Force Sport Comp-2. The RE003/Indy 500's performance target was the Michelin Pilot Sport 3. Basically, Bridgestone is slapping a Firestone badge on the carcass, and selling it for WAY less than the RE760. If you daily your car, don't track it, or do more than a handful of autocrosses a year.... you want this tire.
- once everything is on and installed, realign and retune!

[dhill_cb7]

Great thread! Minus the broken pictures I would love to see all the pictures if you still have them somewhere. That trailing arm bushing looks really bad. Luckily it did not break while you were driving.
You have done a lot to this car. I have always liked the 96-97 coupes. A co worker has a 96 with over 250k. The motor and trans went out over 200k. He still drives it every day. He has the oem roof rack and those odd oem rims with the weird center caps. i tried to give him my extras but the CB7 ones do not fit.

Can't wait to see your next update and looking forward to some more pictures.

[Chrisnick]

Yeah, they're all on facebook. Just such a hassle to go back through and change them all.

Just crossed 240K on this about a week ago.