not wanting to idle.

[Eleanor_cb7]

Ok i got my motor back together. And went to fire it up it will start and idle at about 1100 ish. But as soon as i hit the gas and let off it will drop to 100rpm then bounce up to 800 then just die. I swaped the head both t belts. And it is timed perfect. The dizzy is set in the middle. And its a a1 head on a a1 block. Same cam and every thing.and it has a horable shake at "idle". And thanks to a earler post valve lash is set also.

[marneus901]

Sounds like a vacuum leak, check around your intake manifold/throttle body and make sure all vacuum lines are correctly connected and not broken.

[Restless]

Also, make sure all of your connectors are plugged in and plugged in to the right sensors. Possibly a tps or iacv issue. Make sure you got some good grounds too. If you painted over anything which your ground wire was bolted too you can lightly sand that area to insure you have better contact. These were some of the issues I faced when I dropped in my motor and couldn't get it to stay running.

[Eleanor_cb7]

Ok checked all the grounds and forgot one so i hooked it up. Then checked all the sensors cume lines one was split. But as i went to start it , it wouldn't. So i checked the timing it it was way out, so i set it back and started it. But did the idle thing and died again. Then wouldent start. So in conclusion it keeps jumping time Also. Im geting fed up with it. the tensinors are set tight and it still skips.

[marneus901]

Internal issue rather than component issue?

[wildBill83]

Got any pictures of this? How are you timing the balance shafts in relation to your crank? What is your procedure?

[Eleanor_cb7]

Well i got it to run and not jump. Anymore but still has horable shake and dies out. Im uploading a vid to youtube now i link it over when its done.

[MaroonPünSaloon]

Are your plug wires installed in the correct firing order?

[Eleanor_cb7]

I think so. From the drivers seat to the right so sitting in the car.
1-2-3-4 <---motor
1-3-4-2 <--- fireing order
And to be clear it will idle perfect when worming up.i can rev it up and wont act like its going to die. But as soon as its worm and i hit the gas it reves good then let off and its smooth untell 800rpm then either dies or goes to 200-400 then back to idle.

[Eleanor_cb7]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdP1...e_gdata_player

[HCoupe]

Ok, why was the engine or head rebuilt/replaced? What repair manual did you follow? What parts were broke? What parts did you use to fix/replace them?? We're not psychic, we need a back story other than I put my motor back together..... You mention the head is a F22A1 too, leading me to believe you've replaced your old head with a different one? Did you bend the valves or overheat the old head??? Now, the "new" head, where's it from?? and did you at least use a new head gasket???? Did you check the "new" head to make sure to the valves on this head were seated and not bent??? Because, to me it sounds like you have a dead cylinder maybe due to your timing or bent valves.... You said it's jumping timing? a lot of times that indicates something mechanical may be forcing the timing to jump i.e. valves hitting pistons!....... One more (random) question, describe how one sets the timing for the balancing shaft?

[Eleanor_cb7]

Ok hear we go. #1 i replaced the head to have less down time for the fix.#2 a helmes manual and fourms.#3 nothing was broke just valve seals (burnt oil like a sob on start up and past 5k rpm). #4 i replaced the head and valves and all gaskets that go along with it.#5 the block is a f22a1 and the head is a f22a1. #6 no over heat or bent valves(new).#7 i got it from the junk yard. I then took it to a machine shop and had it resurfaced and pressure tested.#7 yes new head gasket oem honda.#8 yes had the machine shop put the valves in for pressure test.#9 the front balance shaft has two marks one on the shaft and one on the gear (gear faces front of car) (shaft up to the mark on the pump) then the rear take the 12mm bolt out stick a bolt in and lock the shaft from movement and now thay are set for #1 at tdc.

[Eleanor_cb7]

So when i got home today i worked on my var and pulled the plugs and 1@4 where Wight and 2@3 where black. And the exhaust smells ritch but no color to it.

[HCoupe]

That makes it sounds like ignition. Double check that your distributor isn't 180 out, check your cap and rotor, check/ohm out your spark plug wires.........Just so we're clear on the firing order,

Also, to find no.1 cylinder on most(all?) engines, remember no. 1 cylinder is closest to the timing belt/chain, no.2 second closest, no.3 third closest, and so on.......
This may help read your plugs

[Eleanor_cb7]

Ok thanks ill ohm them out. What numbers should i look for? I plan on getting new wires and plugs for the second time tomorrow. And last night i reset the ecu and it runs alot better then before i can rev it up and let out and it wont drop below 800 rpm so i drove around the block and all was well except when i hit the brakes hard then it drops low. New pads so i wanted to test them out.