Strange spring knuckle clearance issue

[Frijoles]

Alright guys, not really sure what's going on here and I was hoping someone might have a clue because I sure as heck don't.

I'm sitting at maybe 1 or 1.5 degrees of negative camber, and my knuckle is pressed right up against my spring. I'm lowered on Neuspeed Race springs, so I don't have any sort of extreme drop. I have previously been less low than this, with MORE negative camber, so I don't understand this at all. I used to have so much negative camber that I bought the SPC balljoint kit, however, I had to turn it backwards just to get any negative camber, because before that my car had POSITIVE camber.

I've never seen, heard of, or had this issue before. I have no idea what is causing it, and I'd be super happy if you guys have any suggestions. Pics below for reference.



Here it is, actually hitting the spring while sitting at ride height.



This is how much negative camber it has, SMASHED UP against the spring. The rear has WAY more negative camber, and I didn't even try for it.



Here is showing both in relation to each other.

I will also say, which unfortunately is my current lead, would be my knuckle. All I can figure is that the knuckle I am using would be causing this issue. I am using a 6th gen Accord knuckle, however, aside from the fact the bearing was pressed in, it appears identical. I compared it to my stock one and found no noticable differences, but I can't see what else could possibly be the issue.

Please let it be something else. I don't want to swap knuckles for a third time.

[Domesticated]

Yea that's not gonna work. The correct knuckle should be much closer to the wheel. Some knuckles bow in like that, some are a lot more flat.

[Tishock]

It's hard to tell from this pic, are you sure you have the forks or the UCAs on the correct sides? Also, does that ball joint look right?

[sonikaccord]

I have 6th gen knuckles and mine are no where near that close. How is your UCA ballpoint adjusted?

[Frijoles]

I have 6th gen knuckles and mine are no where near that close. How is your UCA ballpoint adjusted?

To everyone asking about the balljoint, I mentioned in the first post that I had to flip the balljoint around backwards to get anywhere close to enough negative camber. The UCA is oriented the correct way.

I am running 15mm spacers, which doesn't help, but I need those to clear the brakes.

I don't see why this should be an issue, as others run the 6th Gen Knuckles without issue.

[Granite CB7]

Your adj. balljoints need to be spun 180*, they should be bias to the outside of the car, not the inside. What UCA's do you have and are they switched around? I find it really odd you have to have the SPC's spun inboard just to achieve neg camber.

[Rilas]

I agree with Tishock something looks wrong with the upper control arm mounts. The posts with the bushings, it just looks like it is way too low in relation to where it should be on the body and the top of the strut.

[sonikaccord]

Your adj. balljoints need to be spun 180*, they should be bias to the outside of the car, not the inside. What UCA's do you have and are they switched around? I find it really odd you have to have the SPC's spun inboard just to achieve neg camber.

x2

Neuspeed Race is about 2-2.5" You should still have negative camber. If you were running the Prelude knuckles, I could see POS camber being an issue.

The BJs are flipped and maxed out causing the knuckles to be that close to the spring.

[Frijoles]

Alright guys, I don't think you're reading my posts here. I've explained this twice now, but I'm going to explain it again in big letters so someone actually reads it.

I FLIPPED THE BALLJOINT AROUND ON PURPOSE BECAUSE AT THE MAXIMUM SETTING I STILL HAD POSITIVE CAMBER. I AM AWARE, AND I HAVE BEEN AWARE IT WAS BACKWARDS SINCE THE FIRST POST. I STATED IT WAS BACKWARDS IN MY FIRST POST. INSTALLED CORRECTLY, I HAD POSITIVE CAMBER. THE BALLJOINT ISN'T CAUSING MY CLEARANCE ISSUE, IT IS MERELY A SYMPTOM OF THE REAL PROBLEM. [/COLOR]

I'm not trying to be rude, but I'm very frustrated with this. I've spent a lot of money and time on this, and now I'm probably going to have to spend more on new knuckles.

So please, read what I have said before you give me "solutions".

The issue is almost definitely from the knuckle, I just want a bit more verification on this before I go spend a bunch more money.

If I currently barely have 2 degrees of camber, and there are people capable of running negative 4, there is a problem. People are using Civic control arms with little issue, why am I having problems with a BALLJOINT on oem arms? Do you see what I am getting at here? My balljoint, backwards or not, is not the issue. Please, read my other two posts carefully before telling me something that I already explained I am aware of.

What I am trying to figure out is why I am having clearance issues with this knuckle. No one else has mentioned these problems before, and that confuses me. They looked nearly identical.

So let me ask another question, can anyone confirm if the issue is my knuckles or not. Because I can't think of anything else it could possibly be.

Edit: I decided to add more pictures so you can see, without a doubt, what I'm talking about. Here is how the car sits on the opposite side, with the ball joint oriented correctly.


See that? Positive camber. That shouldn't be there. That shouldn't happen. I still have barely any clearance like that as well. The brake lines are dangerously close to rubbing.


Look how close all that is. It shouldn't be that close. Ball joint is orientated correctly.


See? Oriented correctly, still not enough clearance.


Positive camber!

[sonikaccord]

You have the 6th gen, 4-lug knuckle. And not the v6. I don't believe anyone here has tried that. You may be the first. That would explain why you haven't seen this issue posted.
We are correct. The reversed balljoint IS moving your knuckle closer, but it may also have a sharper bend which just makes it worse. Do you have the original knuckle to compare it to?

The issue is almost definitely from the knuckle, I just want a bit more verification on this before I go spend a bunch more money.

Well, there is your answer. The only other things that could cause positive camber would be:
LCA and related damage/modification
UCA and related damage/modification
Radius rod (?)

[Frijoles]

Well, of course the Ball joint is moving the knuckle closer in, that's how you adjust camber. What I'm saying is I did that on purpose. It isn't the cause of the camber issue. It's a side effect of it. I shouldn't have to flip that Ball joint around to get 0 degrees of camber. Oh well, we now know these knuckles don't work. I ordered CL knuckles, hopefully they are the right ones, and I can finally get on the road.

Edit : I also want to say, the part numbers for the V6 and I4 knuckle are the exact same. They are the same part, so anyone running this should have the same clearance / camber issue I am having.

[Raf99]

Interesting read and I feel your frustration. Been following this and while I don't have an answer hopefully someone will be able to help you out.

I know in the 5th lug conversions and other DIYs they say you need a V6 hub as the spline hole is a different size. But no-one mentions that you need a V6 knuckle and if the part numbers are the same then you should be ok.

But comparing knuckles, your knuckles are drastically different than the OEM ones. I dug up some pics to show you...

Yours

Mine




My setup is with coilovers and SPC camber kit with 0 camber.

[sonikaccord]

Frijoles: The P/Ns are the same. I haven't looked until now. That sucks.

Raf99, those are great pics of the OEM arm. You can really see the difference in the knee. I'm running GC coilovers, so my perch isn't down that low right now, but I'm going to get some pics as well.

[ZoneOneCB7]

Interesting read and I feel your frustration. Been following this and while I don't have an answer hopefully someone will be able to help you out.

I know in the 5th lug conversions and other DIYs they say you need a V6 hub as the spline hole is a different size. But no-one mentions that you need a V6 knuckle and if the part numbers are the same then you should be ok.

But comparing knuckles, your knuckles are drastically different than the OEM ones. I dug up some pics to show you...

Yours

Mine




My setup is with coilovers and SPC camber kit with 0 camber.

I am running with megan racing 2" drop on the front on my 93 with stock knuckles and never had that issue. I just wish the knuckle was shorter so my upper control arms hitting the frame and even with the ingals ball joints I still have negative camber. I purchased those cheep adjustable pieces that go on the back of the arm, welded them to give me positive camber then adjusted the ball joints to zero. That extended my upper arm and now hits the frame a bit.

[Frijoles]

Ugh. What a shame. Lots of money wasted, but whatever. I'm so close now.

I ordered a pair of CL 2.3 knuckles, hopefully the bearings and ball joints are still good so I don't need to replace them. Again.