af_1132 : 1993 Accord LX

[af_1132]

Ugh, it's calling my name!



Sadly, I won't go there with an erratic idle. The new gaskets come in tomorrow. I tried driving around and it jerks. It's terrible.

[sonikaccord]

Ohhhhh get 'em!!!

I can't wait till you're killing stangs.

[af_1132]

And I might have done it tonight, if I only had not tried to clean the FITV and IACV, stupid me!

Oh well, June 10th.

[Lucien]

Good morning, bro!

I got all my parts in for the torque mount! Can you give me any feedback on adjusting the tension? I'm assuming you installed it with the other mounts still torqued down, bolted the torque mount ends in and then tightened the mount as much as possible by hand?

[af_1132]

Well, it went kind of like this:

I tightened both the rod ends as much as I could by hand right into the beam without using any jam nuts. That came from a misunderstanding of what Jarrett was telling me. Of course, they were not aligned when I did that, so I loosened both just a tad so that they were both facing the same direction. I then put the through bolts in less than half way, used a Jam nut and some washers as a spacer, then put in the rod ends, then some more jam nuts and washers on the other side (until I could not fit anymore while trying to be as balanced as possible). It was really snug when I had one jam nut and a few washers on each side in the bottom bracket. On the top, two jam nuts did not fit on each side of the larger rod end, despite the wider bracket. So, one side got two jam nuts, and the other side got one jam nut and a bunch of washers.

It sounds pretty sketch, but it is rock hard and nothing has come loose. Just tighten the through bolt nuts to spec, and it will be SOLID.

[Lucien]

Well, it went kind of like this:

I tightened both the rod ends as much as I could by hand right into the beam without using any jam nuts. That came from a misunderstanding of what Jarrett was telling me. Of course, they were not aligned when I did that, so I loosened both just a tad so that they were both facing the same direction. I then put the through bolts in less than half way, used a Jam nut and some washers as a spacer, then put in the rod ends, then some more jam nuts and washers on the other side (until I could not fit anymore while trying to be as balanced as possible). It was really snug when I had one jam nut and a few washers on each side in the bottom bracket. On the top, two jam nuts did not fit on each side of the larger rod end, despite the wider bracket. So, one side got two jam nuts, and the other side got one jam nut and a bunch of washers.

It sounds pretty sketch, but it is rock hard and nothing has come loose. Just tighten the through bolt nuts to spec, and it will be SOLID.

Alright.

Once you had both rod ends in and threaded, but still loose, did you tighten the mount down by hand or with a wrench in order to add some preload?

[af_1132]

I did not tighten the mount, other than torque the through bolt nuts on both bottom and top to spec. So I guess there is no vertical preload in the mount.

What I should have done, what Jarrett told me to do, what you should do, and what I will do when I fill my transmission mount this week, is put a jam nut in between each rod end and the beam, then use a washer or two so that when you tighten, the rod ends are rotated the same way. The jam nuts can be tightened more than hand tight with a wrench.

The only thing I am worried about is how the bolt holes in the original mount line up perfectly with the DIY mount without any jam nuts, when the rod ends are both friction tight (even though you can physically turn them about another 5'th turn before they are hand tight).



That makes me worried that if I add two jam nuts, that will effectively lengthen the rod end mount to the point where stress is put on the trans mount and driver's side mount. Here's the thing, though, when I get a traction bar, I will most likely have to lengthen this mount, and I will use jam nuts to do so.

[Lucien]

I did not tighten the mount, other than torque the through bolt nuts on both bottom and top to spec. So I guess there is no vertical preload in the mount.

What I should have done, what Jarrett told me to do, what you should do, and what I will do when I fill my transmission mount this week, is put a jam nut in between each rod end and the beam, then use a washer or two so that when you tighten, the rod ends are rotated the same way. The jam nuts can be tightened more than hand tight with a wrench.

The only thing I am worried about is how the bolt holes in the original mount line up perfectly with the DIY mount without any jam nuts, when the rod ends are both friction tight (even though you can physically turn them about another 5'th turn before they are hand tight).



That makes me worried that if I add two jam nuts, that will effectively lengthen the rod end mount to the point where stress is put on the trans mount and driver's side mount. Here's the thing, though, when I get a traction bar, I will most likely have to lengthen this mount, and I will use jam nuts to do so.

Ah! I see! I was wondering how it wouldn't unthread itself from one side when turning the bar, so the jam nut solution makes sense.

On a side note, check these out:
http://kingpinmachine.com/store/prod...al-front-lcas/

[af_1132]

Wow, spherical bushing inserts! This will allow for more torque at the connecting points, but I worry about them not being able to laterally compress. I wonder what other advantages there are, besides being all new.

[af_1132]

I've got a good mount going for S-Dash on my phone now. It fits nice and snug.



I also created an idle surge problem for myself when trying to alleviate another idle problem. Oh, well, now I have cool, billet block off plates. I'm not going to delete EGR yet, since I don't want to hack into the ECU and black box to do a full delete.











It does clean up the bay a little to have ABV gone.



I also have this to do for my trans. mount:



I'm going to do a thorough coolant bleed that I found on Honda Civic Forums and see if that fixes the idle surge.

[Domesticated]

I like where this is going... Is it just me or do we have very similar yet completely different builds lol?

[Tishock]

I also have this to do for my trans. mount:



I'm going to do a thorough coolant bleed that I found on Honda Civic Forums and see if that fixes the idle surge.

I need to get off my ass do this to all my mounts in the van. I'm tired of this engine starting a one man mosh pit.



Engine bay is really coming along sir! I went back though your MRT and damn I'm really jealous of your coilovers

[cb9love]

Yes! more solid mounts.
It's time for your solid strut (shock) tower bars.

[af_1132]

Thank you, guys.

I wish it wasn't so bittersweet.

I can't FOR THE LIFE OF ME figure out why I have idle surge! This is hell. I've done everything I know to do, and it won't go away! TB gaskets, coolant bleeds, vacuum lines, valves, other gaskets, plugs, idle screws, codes (none) everything I know! I want to race, and I just can't, and it's killing me.

All I did was just take off the IACV and FITV to clean them, that's it. I put them back on at torque spec, and surge. I just don't get it.

[sonikaccord]

Did you replace the 20+ year old o-rings?