Trans fluid leak from engine/trans mating line

[wtfisafleek]

Hello everyone,

While I was under the car the other day I noticed my trans was leaking fluid from this spot so I figured a seal or two is bad. However I'm not 100% sure which one(s) it could be, even after looking at the service manual and parts diagrams online.

I was planning on buying these as well as a crank seal if I end up having to separate the trans from the motor to do it. Given where it's leaking I'm pretty sure that's what's going to have to happen. Are the highlighted ones below the only trans seals I'll need?

[fleetw00d]

First thing (if you haven't done it already) is to clean the area well to make sure you know where the leak is coming from. #1 - you're sure it is transmission fluid? I don't think I've ever had a trans leak from its input shaft seal (#16), but your car is pushing 400,000 miles, correct (original trans?)? #15 is the left axle seal, there is another on the right side. As you say, if you drop the trans to replace its main seal, also replace the main crank seal. From Honda it can be purchased as the seal alone or already installed in the plate (the OEM manual cautions about getting the installed depth in the plate just right).

[Raf99]

Ya, there's no way you have a leak on #16. It's definitely going to be #15 for the axle seal.

[wtfisafleek]

Yes Fleetwood, I'm positive it's trans fluid, no doubt about it. I don't have any reason to believe it's not the original trans, but it shifts and generally behaves really well if that's the case. I cleaned the underside of the trans and engine in general to get rid of a bunch of the muck that was down there while back, so it's not too difficult to see the fluid's color is very red. I changed it last year while doing other things. It would make sense if it's just that axle seal somehow, as I did change that side's axle so I guess maybe I nicked the old one.

Raf, it may very well be it's not the #16 seal, however I believe I may have a slight main seal leak to take care of too. I've taken care of the distributor seals amongst and who knows what else up high on the motor. I can't see any leakage up high anymore. Is that seal removable without removing the trans?

[thepowderblue]

That's a common problem. You just need to remove the axle, pop the seal out with a screwdriver or something and pop another in. I recommend putting a little transfluid on the new seal to sell it slide in safely
Just make sure you guild the axle back in straight because if your not careful that's one way you can hurt a axle seal

[wtfisafleek]

That's good to hear; I can address it real quick then. I guess the main seal can wait a couple more weeks until the weather here warms up.

[fleetw00d]

If you're planning to drop the trans to replace the main seal, you might as well wait to do the axle seals; you'll have to pull the axles before you remove the trans. If you replace the axle seals now, you might damage the new seals when you go after the main seal.

[Raf99]

I will also note if you have never done these axle seals they are a bit weird to remove. Take a good look at the replacement seal before attempting it. More comes out than you think I guess is a way to describe it.

[wtfisafleek]

Originally Posted by fleetw00d

If you're planning to drop the trans to replace the main seal, you might as well wait...

Damn you and all of your foresight! I'm sure I would've come to the same conclusion after I sat there with the parts in my hand, looking at the manual.

I did have a nice surprise on ebay though. I found someone selling one of the seal carrier plates already installed. I couldn't find it anywhere else. I understand you have to drop the oil pan to remove it is that right? In any case, I noticed my pan was a little beat up so I'll be replacing it. The flange was boogered up just enough to throw off my gasket install.

[fleetw00d]

With the trans off, the seal plate might be able to be lifted up out of the holes in the pan, but if you're disturbing the pan seal, it is a good idea to replace it at the same time, which unfortunately requires you to drop the flex pipe - I think you can leave it attached to the converter and just disconnect it from the manifold and the block bracket.