The H23A Manual Tensioner conversion...

[BustedLX]

Alright well this is basically a quick how-to of what's need to ditch your H22A's auto tensioner and swap to the H23A's manual tensioner. This cost in total about $140 to do which is a little more money then a new auto tensioner cost. The advantages are this tensioner is more reliable and there is no special tool required.

Parts REQUIRED are:

13404-PT0-004 - balancer belt adjuster
14510-PT0-004 - timing belt adjuster
14516-PT2-000 - adjuster spring
90014-P14-A00 - adjuster base bolt
90015-PT0-000 - adjuster spring bolt
90016-PT0-000 - adjuster bolt
90140-P14-A00 - 11mm washer
14521-P14-A00 - adjuster plate

All the other parts required can be reused from your H22A. I also changed however the fallowing three parts just to be anal.

90501-MB7-610 - washer
90216-P0A-000 - nut
90401-PT0-000 - rubber o-ring

Now I'm not going to go in detail about how to remove the timing belts and all that because if you don't know how to do that you shouldn't be doing this. I'm just going to show you where all the parts go and what it looks like when it's done.



The adjuster base bolt (90014-P14-A00) isn't shown installed in the picture because it was still out of stock when I took this picture.

Here is what it looks like all together:

That's all folks, The springs and actual tensioners are pretty self explanitory. Make sure you order all these parts prior to doing this! Don't take apart your engine and expect this stuff to be in stock at your local dealer. They will most likely have to order most of it and most will be back ordered.

Good luck and may the force be with you

[92lx]

great little write up Jose! thanks a lot, I'm sure it'll be of assistance sometime in the near future.

- Nathan

[BustedLX]

Thanks Nathan.

Something I realized that I should have mentioned earlier is that this swap will cost around $140 but it includes the new timing belt tensioner everything needed for the complete conversion AND the balencer belt tensioner. So if you think about it your actually saving money doing this conversion because the new auto tensioner and balencer belt tenstioner for the H22A is about $170-$200 for both. Just something to consider.

[h22wagon]

good job on the thread, i just got mine on last nite. i used some stuff from my old motor and a little time in the machine shop and i have the conversion for $30. but im not running a balance belt so it was that much easyer

[BustedLX]

Originally posted by h22wagon
good job on the thread, i just got mine on last nite. i used some stuff from my old motor and a little time in the machine shop and i have the conversion for $30. but im not running a balance belt so it was that much easyer

That's a big mistake man you should really hook the balance shaft up. I don't think anything good will come if you go without it.

[h22wagon]

i've heard people say its just a comfort thing and it dosnt hurt it. they wrong? shit i need to find this out becouse the motors going in tonite

[BustedLX]

Originally posted by h22wagon
i've heard people say its just a comfort thing and it dosnt hurt it. they wrong? shit i need to find this out becouse the motors going in tonite

Yes it is for comfort but it also serves a purpose. You are not going to see any performance gains by not using it so why not just leave it connected.

[Dutchaccord]

ALSO DITCH THE Tensioner spring used on the balance shaft belt tensioner, it can sometimes come off and do a lot of damage....

[cp[mike]]

Re: The H23A Tensioner conversion...

Originally posted by BustedLX
This cost in total about $140 to do which is a little more money then a new auto tensioner cost.

lets say you dont want to convert to the manual tensioner, and you only want to replace the auto tensioner for your peace of mind... what parts need to replaced? just the actual tensioner itself (the thing that you hold closed with the special tool, part #23 on majestic) or the pulleys and whatnot with it (parts 18, 10, etc)?

heres the majestic page for the H22A: linkey link

now if just replacing that auto tensioner is really discouraged... im having a hard time figuring out which parts are which on the majestic page. they dont use the OEM honda part numbers.... u think someone could post up the list of Majestic part #s that are needed for the auto->manual conversion?

heres the page for the H23: linkey link

[xScott]

Am i the only one who cant see any of busteds pics?

[cp[mike]]

Re: Re: The H23A Tensioner conversion...

Originally posted by cpmike
u think someone could post up the list of Majestic part #s that are needed for the auto->manual conversion?

special thanks to phatdoughnut:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...G+BELT+%282%29

majestic part #s for auto->manual tensioner conversion:
10=balancer belt pulley ("ADJUSTER")
12=spring ("SPRING B")
18=timing belt pulley ("ADJUSTER")
19=spring ("SPRING")
25=one of the bolts you need ("BOLT")
26=one of the other bolts you need ("BOLT")
27=that long bolt with red cap ("BOLT")
30=big washer ("WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)")

[cp[mike]]

***POSTED BY PHENOM***

Here are all of the parts that i bought:

90014-P14-A00 - Adjuster base bolt 2.90

90015-PT0-000 - Adjuster spring bolt 5.38
90016 PT0-000 - Adjuster bolt 6.38

90140-P14-A00 - 11mm washer 2.42
14521-P14-A00 - Adjuster plate 7.68
90501-MB7-610 - Washer 1.60
90216-P0A-000 - nut(10mm) 3.78
90401-PT0-000 - Rubber o-ring 3.07
13404-PT0-004 - Balancer belt adjuster 52.76
14510-PT0-004 - Timimg belt adjuster 51.28
14516-PT2-000 - Adjuster spring 3.06
91213-PR3-004 - Oil seal(2 units) 8.68
91212-P0A-004 - Oil seal 5.78
91233-PT0-003 - Oil seal 4.78
19200-P13-003 - Water pump 88.18
13405-PT0-004 - Belt 32.74
14400-P13-014 - Belt 48.78

These are all of the parts that i bought. The sub-total was 329.25. I figured i'd replace the cam seals, crank seal, water pump, both the timimng and balancer belt while the motor was still out. I would strongly suggest getting the balancer shaft tensioner pulley from the H23 as well as the timing belt tensioner pulley. This way you don't have to use any washers to separate the two. The balancer pulley from the H23 will space itself properly. You'll see when you get it. You can get these parts at these prices at www.hondrparts.com. If you call to order and no-one answers, leave a message and the will call you back. This place is like 20 minutes from my house so i save on shipping (AIGHT!). It's funny, when i go there now, i don't have to pre-order, they just give me the internet price. But if there was someone behind me inline who didn't know about the website, he'd get charged full retail. amazing what a little info will get you. Anywayz, like i mentioned before, go to www.collectiveracing.net and register, logon on, and do a search for the word "tensioner" in all open forums. You'll be directed to a post by 2point6 that is extrememly in-depth rearding the auto-manual tensioner swap. Good lookin out to CPMIKE for helpin me with the post. Good luck fellaz
ONE
-Drew

[cp[mike]]

im finally putting the whole manual tensioner in, but when i try to wrap the h22a belt around everything, its extremely tight... i hardly managed to get the belt on all the gears and pulley, but the pulley has absolutely ZERO room to make tension, its pushed all the way back against the bolt.

i compared the manual h23 tbelt tensioner pulley with the auto h22 tbelt tensioner pulley, and the h22 one is alot smaller than the h23 one- most likely why the h23 pulley makes it so the belt doesnt really fit.

** am i supposed to use an h23 timing belt? **

[PHENOM]

we definitely used the H22 timing belt. I don't remember having resistence(sp?) issues that you describe. Are you using the correct pulleys? (H23)

[cp[mike]]

nevermind, i got it all figured out. the h22 belt is all good