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SUSP: Cross Member & Rear Sway Swap

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    SUSP: Cross Member & Rear Sway Swap

    This is for everyone who don't have a Rear Sway on there cb7's. Me and FuncOvrForm did this outside in the rain on my driveway so you will enjoy this DIY if you like it or not! lol jk.

    In able for this to work, you will need the Cross Member with Rear Sway and all screws and brackets with it, do to the fact that the X-member has the holes for you to screw in the brackets for the rear sway! You CANNOT use your stock x-member that doesn't have a rear sway with it or holes to screw in the bracket!

    You men and lady's should know how to do it safely - a good proper 2-3 ton jack and 2 jack stands and your car in gear, obviously, and not on a steep hill. its all common sense so all "accidents" that happened to you, I'm not responsible for!


    The tools I used:
    1/2 socket wrench
    3/8 socket wrench
    1/4 socket wrench
    (14) wrench
    two 1/2 exstensions (long and short, to make things easier)
    1/2 (17) socket
    1/2 (14) socket
    1/2 (12) socket
    1/2 (10) socket
    3/8 (17) socket
    1/4 (12) socket



    *You don't really need the 1/4 socket wrench, only had it to make things more easier and quicker. Only used it for one nut.

    1.We will start off with taking off the stock x-member.

    2.as you see, the trailing arm has holes for you to put the arm of the sway bar in.

    3.now its time to take off the arms, its the same for both sides.

    *arrows point to where the bolts are. each arm has one bolt. each bolt is a (17)



    *this arm has a nut on the other side of the bolt, u will need the (14) wrench to hold the nut so it wont turn as u un-screw it. half the time u wont have to do this.

    *now the arms are off, both sides are the same!

    4.now its time to take off the x-member. it has 4 bolts total holding it up. the outer bolts are longer than the inner bolts so keep that in mind when putting up the new x-member.
    *here is the pix of the inner bolts

    *u cant miss the outer bolts, they're behind the arm. now the x-member is off.


    5.now its time to put the new x-member on.

    *this points to where all 4 bolts are at. REMEMBER!, outer bolts are the long ones and inner bolts are the short ones! what i've learned is that not to put in one bolt and tighten it, screw in each bolt halfway just to make sure they're in right. then tighten it.
    Project M3 - http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157903
    -(B-Pillar Bar Originator)-

    #2
    *here it points to the outer bolt and also the sway bar bracket that screws into the x-member. (left side)

    *outer and inner bolts on the left side

    *outer and inner bolts on the right side

    *screwing in the bolt with the nut.

    6.once all 4 arms are in place, now its time to put on the rear sway.
    putting the sway bar on the right side is a little tricky due because of the exhaust being in the way. but once its in now u could put the sway bar arm in the whole of the trailing arm and screw in the bushing to the bracket.
    *screw the bolt in the bracket, same applies to other side


    *screw in the nut to the bolt of the arm. u will need a socket or wrench to hold the other side as it turns also when screwing it in.


    *left side

    7. the finish product!
    Project M3 - http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157903
    -(B-Pillar Bar Originator)-

    Comment


      #3
      yezzur more on how to make ur CB clean comming soon....
      Cali.Dumps.Harder.

      Comment


        #4
        great write up bro...nice DIY for the people who want better handling out of the LX and DX.

        -Jordan

        I ♥/Miss My Coupe

        Comment


          #5
          hmm interesting. This will help.

          ALso what type of sway bar is this? Stock EX?

          ----------------My 92 Honda Accord LX---------------------- My 97 Nissan 240sx LE----

          NE GUYS, Buy the last of my accord parts

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by civic_90_08
            great write up bro...nice DIY for the people who want better handling out of the LX and DX.

            -Jordan
            thanks mayne!

            hmm interesting. This will help.

            ALso what type of sway bar is this? Stock EX?
            yes it is, came out of a stock ex.
            Project M3 - http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157903
            -(B-Pillar Bar Originator)-

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by FuncOvrForm
              yezzur more on how to make ur CB clean comming soon....
              after we shrine on it a bit lol
              Project M3 - http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157903
              -(B-Pillar Bar Originator)-

              Comment


                #8
                oh and to modify this a TAD bit, to add a VIGOR rear sway, which is 16mm instead of 14mm for the EX, you have to bore out the EX crossmember brackets from 14 to 16mm, I used a dremel to do that. ALTHOUGH I didn't try just taking the Vigor crossmember brackets or the Vigor crossmember with everything. But so far, I added the VIGOR sway with my EX brackets and it worked perfect, just like OEM. so if you wanna do this instead you have this option as well.

                member's ride thread
                93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
                99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
                91 Accord SE 176k
                97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Losiracer2
                  oh and to modify this a TAD bit, to add a VIGOR rear sway, which is 16mm instead of 14mm for the EX, you have to bore out the EX crossmember brackets from 14 to 16mm, I used a dremel to do that. ALTHOUGH I didn't try just taking the Vigor crossmember brackets or the Vigor crossmember with everything. But so far, I added the VIGOR sway with my EX brackets and it worked perfect, just like OEM. so if you wanna do this instead you have this option as well.
                  great info right there!
                  Project M3 - http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157903
                  -(B-Pillar Bar Originator)-

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Good write up. But don't forget that the two bolts with the cam washers on them are for rear toe. Make sure after this is done to get an alignment afterwards. Changing this will drastically throw things off.
                    vouch for:924dr, sn2bh22cb7, soysaucecb7, ecto1, PRIMESNIPER,2.2litrebeater,turbowagon94, losiracer2,jacobuchanan140, tommi, dannyd

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by arcadiacb7
                      Good write up. But don't forget that the two bolts with the cam washers on them are for rear toe. Make sure after this is done to get an alignment afterwards. Changing this will drastically throw things off.
                      .. explain that cuz toe has nothing to do with the subframe. .... if ur talking bout upper control arms then we never touch those during this swap.
                      Project M3 - http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157903
                      -(B-Pillar Bar Originator)-

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by cali-racer
                        .. explain that cuz toe has nothing to do with the subframe. .... if ur talking bout upper control arms then we never touch those during this swap.
                        I was going to explain that earlier, But your toe will be off now. Those 2 bolts that you took out are actually special bolts that move the control arm in or out. If you look at them carefully you will see what I am talking about.

                        The upper control arm just controls camber. Bad toe plus a sway bar will cause some problems.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by arcadiacb7
                          Good write up. But don't forget that the two bolts with the cam washers on them are for rear toe. Make sure after this is done to get an alignment afterwards. Changing this will drastically throw things off.
                          In the 6th picture down in your write up the second arrow points to the bolt, the washer underneath the nut is actually a cam washer used to adjusted the toe of the rear wheels, that's why an alignment is needed after this is done.

                          Keep an Eye on my Coupe. Click the Pic

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by tresexohcb
                            In the 6th picture down in your write up the second arrow points to the bolt, the washer underneath the nut is actually a cam washer used to adjusted the toe of the rear wheels, that's why an alignment is needed after this is done.
                            oohh ok i see now got me confused there for a sec
                            Project M3 - http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157903
                            -(B-Pillar Bar Originator)-

                            Comment


                              #15
                              that's gangsta.

                              1993 Honda Accord LX 2004-2009
                              1996 Honda Civic LX 2009-2012
                              2012 Kia Optima LX 2012-2013
                              2010 Honda Accord EX-L V6 2013-2018
                              2007 Honda Fit Sport 2017-2017
                              2018 Honda Accord EX-L 2.0T 2018-20XX






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