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Old 08-24-2010, 10:22 AM   #1
PR CB7
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SUSP: Manual rack

Deleting PS 80% of the time starts with an H swap, and some of the times its starts with a leaking PS rack. I personally dont like the way PS "LOOKS" in the cb engine bay, so heres a tutorial about how to make yourself a manual rack.

The first mistake some people do, is loop the lines so you can keep the system lubricated. You want the rack lubricated, but that last thing you need is fluid. Being that the PS rack works by a piston moved by hydraulic oil, by looping the lines you're only stressing the rack, your better off leaving it open.

step 1: take the rack out of the car
easiest of all.................


step 2: remove inner tierods
to remove, you must straighten the crush washers, and then with a 17mm wrench remove the inner tierods


step 3: remove hydraulic valve body
the body that has all the threaded fittings


step4: remove top cover

step 5: remove snap rings
all 3 of them


step 6: remove black housing



step 7: remove piston cylinder

step 8: remove piston seals, ALL

step 9: remove turning spline (the one that moves the rack rod)

step 10: remove turning spline housing


step 11: remove 14 mm adjuster cap


step 12: remove rack rod (big one)

step 12: clean clean clean


step 13: dry and grease ( grease EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)


reversal steps aint really necessary, put it all how you took it back,

as for the valve body remove all springs and valves out of it, do not cap the valvebody, since turning will create pressure, you want it to escape.


do not install cylinder back its not necessary and its extra weight

as for the rack tensioner, there is adjustment on it, adjust and turn the rack until you get the desired feeling


Put the rack back on the car, and enjoy
I made this diy based on one i read on a prelude forum, but did it myself on a cb rack and posted my own pictures.
the difference you might ask?
if looped lines is 3 and ps is 10, i would rate the feeling a 7.5, being that it doesnt suck no more getting out of parking lots and really do not regret eliminating it


TO ELIMINATE PLAY IN THE MANUAL RACK:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
THE SOLUTION TO ELIMINATING STEERING PLAY:

Here are the two washers:


Thickness of both washers:


Two washers on the valve side:


Two washers on the cover side:


I dropped it to the ground and sure enough no more play. Great job Will figuring this out.
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Just do what PR CB7 said.

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Last edited by cp[mike]; 10-30-2017 at 09:45 PM.
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Old 08-24-2010, 11:12 AM   #2
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Damn bro you beat to making the DIY.


But nice write up. Me and a few friends have done this and we love it.

Last edited by Darkcloud; 08-24-2010 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 08-24-2010, 11:19 AM   #3
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I might have to pick up another junkyard rack do this. How long have you ridden with it done like that? Will it make the rack last longer?
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Old 08-24-2010, 11:38 AM   #4
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Nice write up, I just did this with a j/y rack, but haven't installed it yet. I want to get new in/outer tierods first. Although, I did not remove the stuff from the valve body, do you think this is necessary? It still seems to move pretty easily by hand.

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Old 08-24-2010, 08:10 PM   #5
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i just did this about 3 weeks ago and took pics for a DIY, ended up doing it slightly diffrent but great to see someone else tearing into it.

i machined off the piston, left the cylinder to hold the rack end bushing and made a block off plate to replace the valve body, rather than taking it apart.

i am not sure if removing the piston was the best idea, the piston does not act as a steering lock, but it seems like i picked up some steering wheel judder over bumps, i need to adjust the rack guide and see if it eliminates the problem.

nice job on the pictures and write up.
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:49 PM   #6
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on mine i had the tensioner as much as i could, but after the second rack tought me, i had to loosen mine a bit
what a difference

i recommend replacing inner and outers if bad
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Old 11-29-2010, 06:21 AM   #7
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nice, seems like alot of work, yes removing the rack will b easier buut to a normal joe it may not b worth it.

i like ps but thats me.. good write up tho
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Old 04-16-2011, 02:41 PM   #8
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Anybody else's seem alot harder to turn right than to turn left?? I did it a little different by cutting off the piston ring?on the shaft. I think I might try it without cutting that off using the rack I took out. There also seems to be some play in the steering wheel when driving straight, it wanders a little. Any input?

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Old 04-16-2011, 04:15 PM   #9
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did you get an alignment, and did you get the steering wheel lined back up dead on after you took the universal joints off.

i machined off the pistion also, so i am in same situation, i did not notice more effort in one direction over the other, but it did seem like the wheel would turn slightly more in one direction before stopping, i think the piston may have acted as a stop for right turns.

also, i noticed minimal play it wasn't actually in the steering but it seemed like the set up has a little more freeplay than PS which is to be expected.
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Old 09-09-2011, 03:23 PM   #10
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So i'm redoing the manual rack with the one I originally took out, i'm not going to cut the ring off of the rod this time. Curious though when you say "do not install cylinder back its not necessary and its extra weight" are you talking about the big silver sleeve? I put that back when I originally did mine and am now thinking that's my problem, just want to verify that's what you're talking about before i put the next one back together!

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Old 09-09-2011, 05:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by short1 View Post
So i'm redoing the manual rack with the one I originally took out, i'm not going to cut the ring off of the rod this time. Curious though when you say "do not install cylinder back its not necessary and its extra weight" are you talking about the big silver sleeve? I put that back when I originally did mine and am now thinking that's my problem, just want to verify that's what you're talking about before i put the next one back together!

short
Yea the silver sleeve dont go back in. Yes there is a lil bit of whel play but not much. Also there is an adjuster nut that you can adjust the rack with

Last edited by Darkcloud; 09-10-2011 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 09-10-2011, 08:32 AM   #12
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Thanks for clearing that up for me!
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by short1 View Post
So i'm redoing the manual rack with the one I originally took out, i'm not going to cut the ring off of the rod this time. Curious though when you say "do not install cylinder back its not necessary and its extra weight" are you talking about the big silver sleeve? I put that back when I originally did mine and am now thinking that's my problem, just want to verify that's what you're talking about before i put the next one back together!

short
thats not the problem, what you are doing is eliminating the seal either way.

its a piston, a piston ring, and a cylinder, if you remove just the seal there is a chance you would get metal to metal contact from the "big silver sleeve" and the piston... remove either and the problem is solved.

the "big silver sleeve" also acts as the retainer for the rack bushing on the passenger side of the car, with out the sleeve that bushing could walk out and end up somewhere in the middle of the rack where it would do nothing.

that is the only reason i left the sleeve and machined the piston off the rack. although mine is alot less reversable than just removing a sleeve.

so you see it does not matter which you do... what you are feeling as "play" is the rack moving.

under normal operation the piston holds tight with the outer sleeve and any movement out of round is minimized by the thin layer of PS fluid between them.

once the seal is gone there is nothing holding the rack on the passenger side you are basically trying to support the rack at the geared portion and just leting the rest hang out there.

edit: Short, I know that did not really answer a question was just trying fully inform you of the possible setups, incase the only reason you were rebuilding it was because you though you did it worng.
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Old 01-28-2012, 01:06 PM   #14
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I am sorry to bring up a old thread but say I have a leaking power steering rack and I don't feel like fixing it. I have another rack from a parts car that I bought for 25 bucks. I saw that I could get something called a steering quickener http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-...DisplayId=8280. Could a manual rack and this steering quickener be a good combo?
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Old 10-25-2017, 11:04 PM   #15
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THE SOLUTION TO ELIMINATING STEERING PLAY:

Here are the two washers:


Thickness of both washers:


Two washers on the valve side:


Two washers on the cover side:


I dropped it to the ground and sure enough no more play. Great job Will figuring this out.
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Old 10-25-2017, 11:38 PM   #16
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Great job, and thanks for the updated pictures!
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Old 10-30-2017, 08:29 PM   #17
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That is exactly the information I needed. The slop is what kept me from doing this. Looking forward to doing the conversion now!

From the look of things, retain everything in the pictures and add a total of 4 washers, 2 on each side, and it will be good to go?
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Old 10-30-2017, 09:28 PM   #18
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You are correct mike.
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Old 10-31-2017, 09:46 AM   #19
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so the washers can be added and that is it or does one need to remove anything to make room for them?
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