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Old 08-09-2019, 10:22 PM   #61
bjaccord
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Hope everything works out and it fires up and runs great for you!
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Old 08-10-2019, 10:10 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjaccord View Post
Hope everything works out and it fires up and runs great for you!
Would have been nice. Back together enough to try it. Sounds normal while cranking, but no spark. Back at it tomorrow.

Aug. 11, 2019: There was a spring missing between the distributor cap and coil tower, but I think this has been missing for a while - it looks like spark has been jumping this gap. Cut a spring to make sure there is contact; no change. Check engine light wasn't on, but jumping the connector showed a code 15; ignition output signal. I appear to have power to the appropriate wires in the distributor. More troubleshooting tomorrow.

Other issues: Still sounds like little or no compression on one cylinder while cranking. The head was completely assembled by the shop, which means at least some valves were open - I tried to be careful not to set the head down on a flat surface (supported the ends). I hope I didn't bend one before putting it on.

Both fan temperature sensor electrical connectors disintegrated while trying to reconnect them; found one of them with a broken wire. I was able to undo one connector shell from a spare harness and repair the connector for the sensor on the thermostat housing. I hate to cut the spare harness to solder the wires, are new connector sockets available from Honda?

Aug 12, 2019: Discouraging. Thermostat ground is attached. Installed another ignition control module (from a spare distributor); no change. Because it was relatively easy, installed a spare ECM; no change. Ignition system worked fine before the timing belt broke; anyone else experience no spark after a timing belt failure incident? OEM manual talks about checks with the test harness (installed between body harness and ECM). Several times I almost coughed up the several hundred ($600+) for the test harness from Honda.

Last edited by fleetw00d; 08-12-2019 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 08-13-2019, 07:19 AM   #63
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Where did you find the test harness? I'd looked once or twice and thought it was no longer available from Honda.
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Old 08-13-2019, 08:22 AM   #64
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So your getting no spark all together? Also have you done a valve adjustment yet? just to confirm your valves are closing completely when they need to I would check the valve lash.

Are you testing for spark at the spark plug? If your not getting spark at the plug check the coil with a test light. Hold the test light a half an inch from the coil(cap off) and have someone try to start and you should see if arc.


This is my video I go to every time I have a no start. He does a great job walking you down the chain.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ


I have had experience where ICMs have gone out for no reason or warning and I have gone through 2-3 until I had a good one. I always grab these from the junkyard.

Hopefully that video helps Paul.
But I wonder if the shock wave from the belt snapping and the piston to valve collision could have shocked the ignition system and maybe caused a component to fail. 8 valves is a good amount of bent valves.

I don’t think you bent any valves putting the head on and the shop should have given you the head set back to TDC.
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:42 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
I know your suppose to do it on a warm engine...
I'm pretty sure you meant to say a cold engine, right?
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Old 08-13-2019, 11:21 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfisafleek View Post
I'm pretty sure you meant to say a cold engine, right?
Yes cold engine. Brain fart. I edited my post, I thought that sounded weird. Thanks for the back up.
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Old 08-13-2019, 04:08 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
So your getting no spark all together? Also have you done a valve adjustment yet? just to confirm your valves are closing completely when they need to I would check the valve lash.

Are you testing for spark at the spark plug? If your not getting spark at the plug check the coil with a test light. Hold the test light a half an inch from the coil(cap off) and have someone try to start and you should see if arc.


This is my video I go to every time I have a no start. He does a great job walking you down the chain.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ


I have had experience where ICMs have gone out for no reason or warning and I have gone through 2-3 until I had a good one. I always grab these from the junkyard.

Hopefully that video helps Paul.
But I wonder if the shock wave from the belt snapping and the piston to valve collision could have shocked the ignition system and maybe caused a component to fail. 8 valves is a good amount of bent valves.

I don’t think you bent any valves putting the head on and the shop should have given you the head set back to TDC.
Low compression on one (heck, any) cylinder won't affect whether the ignition system (I know you know that), so for the moment I'm concentrating on getting it to fire. The shop completely assembled the head, including setting valve lash - I haven't rechecked it. I forgot to take him new spark plug tube seals, so he reused the old ones. Against my own advice, I removed the rocker assembly without backing off the valve adjustments to install new seals; then reinstalled the rocker assembly using OEM torque specs.

No spark whatsoever. Working by myself mostly, so I put my timing light on #1 spark plug wire and taped the trigger so I can watch from the driver seat. Not even random flashes and no indication of random firing from the engine. I do have fuel in the rail and smell fuel at the muffler exit after prolonged cranking.

It is an internal coil distributor (new from Honda a few years ago); resistances through the coil check out according to the service manual. I'll figure out a way to check it for spark.

Is there a way to check the sensors (TDC, etc.) within the distributor?

More today:

Grumpy, thanks for the video. The OEM manual doesn't say anything about checking for the alternating signal at the coil ground. I don't have a test light, but I pulled out my Heathkit oscilloscope and connected it - I have alternating voltage at the coil ground. Connecting a wire from the coil terminal to near the block, I was able get a spark there. I had destroyed the rotor trying to get it off, so I installed one from a 92-93 distributor (the part numbers are different - are they interchangeable?). The resistance through the rotor was sky high until I used a small wire brush to clean the center contact and get resistance down to about an ohm. Similar for the cap, cleaned up the carbon contact to make sure I had low resistance from the coil contact to the center button in the cap. With all that done, I still get no indication of spark at the plugs.

20190813_191810 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

How big a gap should the spark be able to jump? With the wire about a quarter inch away from the block, there was no spark; had to get it a lot closer and the spark was more orange in color than blue. Weak coil? Resistance measurements between terminals were right where they were supposed to be according to the manual. I can get a coil from Honda, but not cap and rotor - any recommendations for those besides my local AutoZone?

Last edited by fleetw00d; 04-09-2020 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 08-14-2019, 04:50 PM   #68
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Spark is an electrical thing....

How's your electrical things?
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:00 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
Spark is an electrical thing....

How's your electrical things?
I understand- I'm working the electrical side first, then I'll worry about the compression. The fact that I get a proper alternating signal at the coil ground indicates that everything up to that point is working correctly. Even the spark out of the coil (although it looks weak), indicates that things are working up to that point - it just isn't getting to the plugs even though the resistance through the cap and rotor measures good (less than an ohm).
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Old 08-16-2019, 08:07 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetw00d View Post
I understand- I'm working the electrical side first, then I'll worry about the compression. The fact that I get a proper alternating signal at the coil ground indicates that everything up to that point is working correctly. Even the spark out of the coil (although it looks weak), indicates that things are working up to that point - it just isn't getting to the plugs even though the resistance through the cap and rotor measures good (less than an ohm).
resistance is one thing, not getting enough power through is another. It sounds like you are not getting enough power to the coil.
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Old 08-16-2019, 11:56 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
resistance is one thing, not getting enough power through is another. It sounds like you are not getting enough power to the coil.
New coil did the trick. Started right up, seems to run fine. Just a little oscillation at idle. I will probably still go back through and double check compression/leakage.

Aug. 17, 2019: Connector shells (gray instead of turquoise) arrived today; repaired the one to the high temperature switch at the head outlet.

20190817_185206 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

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Old 08-22-2019, 09:33 PM   #72
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Got lucky yesterday (sort of). Driving along and I heard clanging from under the car, pulled over quickly and as I was getting out of the car, a kid from the house I just passed came up to me with a bolt in his hand. Turns out it was the front torque mount bolt. I must have loosened it thinking to remove the nut to give me a little extra room to get the exhaust manifold heat shield off/on when working on the head. He was able to supply a 17 mm socket and ratchet and I was able to reinstall it right there (man, the parts around there are HOT).
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Old 08-22-2019, 09:47 PM   #73
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An odd series of events that almost never ends that easily.
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Old 08-22-2019, 10:58 PM   #74
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That’s awesome the kid helped you out. My luck, the kid would have kept the bolt or just not cared.
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Old 10-10-2019, 09:29 PM   #75
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Both my fans were getting noisy; the radiator fan probably has 1/4 inch of play. Replaced both. Finally got to install one of the AC fans I had powder coated.

20191010_194012 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

20191010_194003 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

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Old 04-09-2020, 08:03 PM   #76
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Closing on 384,500 miles. Getting a idle oscillation after releasing the brakes; idle drops low enough sometimes to shut the engine down just as you're trying to engage the clutch. Booster and IACV both seem to work correctly. More to do; may take tomorrow off work for the Good Friday holiday.

Cleaned the engine just because.

20200408_192521 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

I'm going to have to get a tripod or something - I can't hold my hand still for a photo

April 13, 2020: Idle oscillation was low coolant I think. I had replaced the upper hose the other day (small cut in it) and didn't quite get the system refilled. Bled it and filled it to the top; that seems to have fixed it. While I was in there, the engine rocks forward and back too easily. I think the rear mount is still original (my bad), ordered one from Innovative. I have a filled (Flex Seal liquid) front mount that seems to be separating again. A 2.5 inch hole saw does a good job of cutting all the rubber out. I have a block of ballistic rubber I used to make body mounts for my Ford van. I ordered a 68 mm hole saw (64.7 mm, 2.55 inch inside diameter) I am going to use to cut a solid rubber bushing to install in the torque mount. A one inch hole saw should be just about large enough for the center steel bushing.

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Old 04-16-2020, 10:01 PM   #77
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Hole saw came in the other day; I was able to cut and install a ballistic rubber torque mount insert. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=211886 I installed that and a new Innovative rear mount this evening; the engine doesn't budge when engaging the clutch. The holes in the mount didn't quite match the holes in the cross member; I had some difficulty getting them to line up enough to install the bolts. I should have done this long ago, I think all the flexing has hastened the failure of my flex pipe.

20200416_212048_resized by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

April 17, 2020: First test drive with new mounts; they certainly transmit more vibration to the rest of the car. Concerning thing was the smell of hot rubber after parking it. I'll have to check with the ballistic rubber manufacturer about its temperature capability.

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Old 07-02-2020, 06:06 PM   #78
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Posted these same pictures in the "Rescuing Ruby" thread because this relates to the long term life of the repair. Just shy of 386,000.
Big hole in the frame box (right side), spring seat badly rusted (left side), quarters really bad again, maybe some above the rear cross member. I'm not sure I can convince myself to try to repair this - just drive until something lets go? I've started looking for something to maybe swap my drive train and suspension (such as it is) into. My wife is pushing hard for me to get out of CB7s altogether (does not consider them safe).

20200629_181441 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

20200629_185745 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

20200629_190644 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr
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Old 07-02-2020, 06:31 PM   #79
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In Sally, I had a hole where the rear corner seat belt bolt is. I had a shop gut it all and weld pieces in etc. They re-enforced the rear jack points and did rear wheel wells. That whole area on our cars = cancer. Job was close to $4500.

This Looks ahh... like more work than it's worth. Mine was not near this bad.

What you going to do?
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Old 07-03-2020, 09:53 PM   #80
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This Looks ahh... like more work than it's worth. Mine was not near this bad.

What you going to do?
I think start looking for at least a rust free shell.
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